Most Reliable Years?
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 2
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Most Reliable Years?
Hi All,
Need to purchase a truck soon that will live on an island in the Pacific Northwest. Primary uses will be:
- Hauling construction materials
- Towing boat ~5000lbs
Was looking at 90's F-250s as I would like the keep the cost down under $6k.
Appearance and comfort requirements are really low.
My main concerns are getting a reliable model year as major maintenance and repairs will be difficult to accomplish due to the remoteness of the location.
Anyone have any suggestions on the model/year to look for?
Thanks!
Need to purchase a truck soon that will live on an island in the Pacific Northwest. Primary uses will be:
- Hauling construction materials
- Towing boat ~5000lbs
Was looking at 90's F-250s as I would like the keep the cost down under $6k.
Appearance and comfort requirements are really low.
My main concerns are getting a reliable model year as major maintenance and repairs will be difficult to accomplish due to the remoteness of the location.
Anyone have any suggestions on the model/year to look for?
Thanks!
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 6,185
Likes: 633
From: Houston/Sugar Land
I think the heart of the truck being the motor is most important in your case. The 4.9 is a good choice and the easiest to work on IMO. Also, a manual transmission would be my choice for reliability. I will post how to do a diagnostic check so you can get a heads up on the overall condition of the truck. Of course checking all high wear components would be high on the list. Regardless, if you have access to this forum you will have unlimited expertise from some real experts on the forum to help you when you need it. The maintenance the truck has had during its life is paramount. Good luck. Sandy
https://jalopnik.com/heres-why-the-f...tes-1795351528
https://jalopnik.com/heres-why-the-f...tes-1795351528
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Aug 2019
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Awesome, thanks very much.
Are there any recommendations/experience with these engines and infrequent use? By infrequent I mean the truck will likely be driven once every 1-3 months, likely for ~15 or so miles each time. The plan will be to run it as frequently as possible and to always get it up to running temp.
Are there any recommendations/experience with these engines and infrequent use? By infrequent I mean the truck will likely be driven once every 1-3 months, likely for ~15 or so miles each time. The plan will be to run it as frequently as possible and to always get it up to running temp.
I think the heart of the truck being the motor is most important in your case. The 4.9 is a good choice and the easiest to work on IMO. Also, a manual transmission would be my choice for reliability. I will post how to do a diagnostic check so you can get a heads up on the overall condition of the truck. Of course checking all high wear components would be high on the list. Regardless, if you have access to this forum you will have unlimited expertise from some real experts on the forum to help you when you need it. The maintenance the truck has had during its life is paramount. Good luck. Sandy
https://jalopnik.com/heres-why-the-f...tes-1795351528
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p04NPv_gXsI&t=19s
https://jalopnik.com/heres-why-the-f...tes-1795351528
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p04NPv_gXsI&t=19s
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 6,185
Likes: 633
From: Houston/Sugar Land
I would think the quality of fuel you can get on the island will dictate that to a degree. I would also only fill my tank to a bare minimum when using it. You don't want to run these older trucks dry though because of previous contamination. Take several fuel filters with you just in case. I would at least let it idle to operating temp once a month if you can. Sandy
New User
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
I recently bought a 96 f-150 with the 5.0 with 332k on it and have been really surprised as to how well it has held up. The truck still feels very solid and was obviously used for work and hauling things with how much wear the bed has. I believe the drive train is original with how much oil, grime and dirt is caked up underneath the engine and transmission. She lets out a puff of smoke on startup after sitting a bit and has a rear main seal leak but makes plenty of power for what I need and drives great. These are really good trucks, I don't think you could go wrong wrong with any engine/transmission/year combination
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 2,738
Likes: 217
From: Northern VA
You can't really go wrong. These trucks are "peak truck" in my opinion. Cheap, simple, and tough. Design dates back to 70's so by the mid 90's that had most of the issues ironed out. 17 year run means lots of cheap parts. Engines date back to the 60s.
But buy the mileage and not the engine or color above all. I'd take the truck with the lowest miles and least abuse over any other factor.
But buy the mileage and not the engine or color above all. I'd take the truck with the lowest miles and least abuse over any other factor.
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 358
Likes: 7
From: Ky
KISS doctrine (Keep It Simple Stupid) would lead to the most reliable trucks as being the factory original carbed trucks.
That is indisputable, check these forums for the different years, it's easy to see that the digitally managed trucks are more of a service problem, especially the older they get.
Simply more indispensable proprietary parts to fail.
Harder to troubleshoot.
That is indisputable, check these forums for the different years, it's easy to see that the digitally managed trucks are more of a service problem, especially the older they get.
Simply more indispensable proprietary parts to fail.
Harder to troubleshoot.
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 12,144
Likes: 2,631
From: GA
For stupid reliable i would tend to lean to a 4.9/c6 setup if you can find it , or a manual 4 or 5 speed. I doubt you will be seeing much highway so i wouldnt fret over no overdrive.
Go with 93+ for the updated remote ICM (no more heat issues being mounted on dizzy) and the simpler fuel pump system(no more frame mounted high pressure pump) , and the different fpr with no blower fan required.
I would also consider an 87-94 6.9 or 7.3 idi. They will run off anything, parts are cheap and very very reliable and simple. KEep good batteries, cables and glowplugs in her and she will run.
Should be able to find a 4 or 5 speed manual fairly easily.
Go with 93+ for the updated remote ICM (no more heat issues being mounted on dizzy) and the simpler fuel pump system(no more frame mounted high pressure pump) , and the different fpr with no blower fan required.
I would also consider an 87-94 6.9 or 7.3 idi. They will run off anything, parts are cheap and very very reliable and simple. KEep good batteries, cables and glowplugs in her and she will run.
Should be able to find a 4 or 5 speed manual fairly easily.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
Likes: 1,499
From: Ottawa, Ontario
Also I'd suggest you buy a basic truck, electrical things tend to become problematic with age so the fewer accessories it has the less you will have to fix.. crank windows and manual locks never fail.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 104
Likes: 25
From: Orygun
Find an xl model with a c6 transmission ( 3 speed auto). No button on the end of the automatic transmission shifter. You can find them through 1996 model year (at least with a 5.8). More reliable than the 5 speed and the 4 speed autos.
I would look for a 94-96 f250/f350 with a 4.10 rear end and 7.5 gas engine. 5.8 engine would work as well but 7.5 will do the same work easier and use about the same amount of gas.
I would look for a 94-96 f250/f350 with a 4.10 rear end and 7.5 gas engine. 5.8 engine would work as well but 7.5 will do the same work easier and use about the same amount of gas.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 735
Likes: 8
From: NC
what ever truck you choose I'd recommend a float charger to keep the battery topped up if you are gonna be driving it that infrequently. Nothing kills a battery faster than it sulfating from gradual discharge and it running flat a few times. You don't need anything crazy expensive but battery tender and batteryminder both make good units that will do 1.5 amps or so to top the battery off then drop to milliamps to keep the battery full against self discharge.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 946
Likes: 186
From: Carnation, Wah
Living in the same climate, the 4.9/5 speed combo has been very robust under similar conditions. 4wd simply for the
low range- given that I do a lot of tugging things around the place, it's invaluable. If you got an auto, it'd be less so,
but the 4wd is excellent for when everything's wet- you know, 8 or 9 months out of the year.
If you did go with the 6, 4.10 gears for towing would be important.
They're super easy to work on (I have a 351 as well, and it's much harder) and parts can be had anywhere.
One caveat- mice will infest your heater fan. It's hard to seal up, but well worth the effort, as they've
trashed the 150's interior. Mostly by making it smell of mouse pee...
t
low range- given that I do a lot of tugging things around the place, it's invaluable. If you got an auto, it'd be less so,
but the 4wd is excellent for when everything's wet- you know, 8 or 9 months out of the year.
If you did go with the 6, 4.10 gears for towing would be important.
They're super easy to work on (I have a 351 as well, and it's much harder) and parts can be had anywhere.
One caveat- mice will infest your heater fan. It's hard to seal up, but well worth the effort, as they've
trashed the 150's interior. Mostly by making it smell of mouse pee...
t
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 946
Likes: 186
From: Carnation, Wah
I did the 250 by pulling the cowl cover (below the windshield) then reaching down on the passenger's side,
and covering the heater intake with a double layer of hardware cloth. There are 2 heater box bolts
that work to hold it on one side, and then I zip- tied the other.
Then, if you get motivated, there are the drains at the bottom of the cab, behind the inner fender... I gave up on those.
I can't believe that someone on the assembly line got the job of reaching down into that hole on every truck
to secure the heater and seal the seams- the person that did mine obviously hadn't heard that quality was job #1-
but then, I spent 10 minutes filing the sharp corners down before I stuck my arm down in there.
t
and covering the heater intake with a double layer of hardware cloth. There are 2 heater box bolts
that work to hold it on one side, and then I zip- tied the other.
Then, if you get motivated, there are the drains at the bottom of the cab, behind the inner fender... I gave up on those.
I can't believe that someone on the assembly line got the job of reaching down into that hole on every truck
to secure the heater and seal the seams- the person that did mine obviously hadn't heard that quality was job #1-
but then, I spent 10 minutes filing the sharp corners down before I stuck my arm down in there.
t