My '11 Crown Vic has got 315k miles on it and I'm having some kind of tracking problem that I think is coming from the steering. If there's not much wind it drives straight down the road just fine up to about 60 mph. But if the winds up some, or if I take it up to 70, it's tracking characteristics start to get weird and unsettling. Rain seems to cause it to get worse as well. The feeling is not dissimilar to hydroplaning.


I got the wheels off the ground and pushed/pulled on all the tires..3 and 9 o'clock, 6 and 12. Back wheels were solid, and the fronts were ok when I did the 6 and 12, but on the 3 and 9 test the tires moved about 1/4". They didn't move easily say as if they were completely loose, but it didn't take all that much effort to get them rocking either. At each limit of movement there's a low grade thud that's coming from somewhere between the two wheels, pretty close to the center of the car I'd say. I don't know if the movement I'm seeing is normal, but the degree the steering seems to be unpredictable would seem to correlate to about the degree of movement I'm seeing with the 3 and 9 test.


Any ideas on where I go from here?

 

Serving suggestion:

At 315k, take anything that moves, and anything that's squishy like anti-roll bar bushings, any bushing really--and replace it.

Every component has wear, and it's all adding up. Pretty normal.

This have R&P steering? Check that rack.

 

Thanks for the good advice and sorry it took so long to get back. Just got the car back from a front end inspection and they're saying my biggest problem is that both lower ball joints need to be replaced. I've done work similar to this before (using a pickle fork to separate joints and using a rented ball joint press) but they were advising it might be too tough of a job to do by myself in my driveway. I have a 1000lb impact wrench but only a really small compressor.

What do you guys think about attempting this job myself? Any advice?

 

Sorry didn't see your question 85e150. Actually it does have rack and pinion steering. I think that's where the movement is coming from I'm seeing when doing the 3-9 oclock test. I'm guessing there's multiple problems with the guidance and I'll be at this a bit before I get all the problems worked out.

I've decided I'm gonna give it a shot at doing this myself. 'Couple' questions...

- I know the lower BJ presses out, but does the top one press out as well?

- Does the sway bar link have to come off for better access?

- Anything else I should change out while I'm in there? So far I'm gonna be doing both upper and lower BJs and probably the tie rod ends.

- I've been told to use green loc tite. That would be used on the threads on the bottom of the BJs?

- Also been told to watch out for the spring shooting out at me but I believe I have a shock in spring, a strut? Is there any danger of this spring suddenly popping out after tension is eased? I don't plan on removing the spring at all.



- The Moog BJ I'm considering at Rockauto doesn't appear to have a grease boot. Am I looking at this picture wrong? Is that black part a boot that will expand when it's filled up?

 

I'm not a front end man, nor do I play one here:

Upper ball joint probably presses out. Most do in my limited experience.

Sway bar link--if it's in the way....

Anything that moves, including sway bar bushings. Your tie rod ends control steering wheel position, so make sure the rack is centered, which should center the steering wheel. Then adjust the tie rod ends to maintain centering.

Green loc tite can't hurt.

Doubt the spring is an issue.

Not sure on the boot.

Entertaining videos abound for your car:



Several folks here run these cars, so maybe you'll get some better answers.

And double check the rack mounts, action etc.

 

Thanks for all your advice 85. I'm following up on everything you mentioned.

 

Do I have a stamped steel or forged top A-arm? I believe it's stamped but I'm not entirely sure.

 

I would say stamped steel from this distance.

 

Considering the mileage I've decided to change out everything I can. Ordering 2 new top A-arm assemblies, 2 lower ball joints, 4 lower A-arm bushings, 2 new strut assemblies w/ springs, and 2 sway bar links. This only leaves the tie rod ends which there is a chance are not original. This car was part of a fleet that got regular maintenance so since I didn't see any movement at the outer tie rod ends when I was doing the 3 & 9 push test I'm thinking they may have already been replaced. I'll put in everything I've ordered and see how the steering is after that. Do you always do both inner and outer tie rod ends at the same time or is it common just to do the outer, or just the inner?

Found a decent set of ebay shock and spring, strut? assemblies for $150 but it's specified as fitting the interceptor model whereas mine is just the base model. Would they still work ok?

 

Not sure, but I wouldn't chance it. They actually did build the PI cars differently than regular.

Tie rods--if you think they are ok, run 'em. They are easy enough to change later if you find different.

 

Found a fairly comprehensive front end kit for a great deal...like $137 for all of this...

2006-11 Ford Lincoln Mercury Steering & Suspension Kit 12 Piece Set - 1ASFK05040

https://www.1aauto.com/2006-11-ford-...t/i/1asfk05040

I'd rather go with something more dependable like Moog at least on the lower ball joints.

What do you think? Should I go with this kit and save? She's got 320k on her now.