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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 12:26 AM
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New engine.

My 302 is giving up at 295,000 miles. Low oil to no pressure when warm . Erratic oil pressure caused me to hope and then install new pump with same results.
Thinking of buying a reman engine since I just don’t have a lot of time.
Any recommended companies?
 
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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 07:25 AM
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When you say low to no oil psi when warm, is that with a real gauge, modded factory gauge or just the dummy factory gauge from Ford?

And sorry, everything I've heard about reman engines is crap.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 10:10 AM
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When you say low to no oil psi when warm, is that with a real gauge, modded factory gauge or just the dummy factory gauge from Ford?

And sorry, everything I've heard about reman engines is crap.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 10:15 AM
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Explorer motor. Serving suggestion
 
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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 10:21 AM
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Factory gauge but I did check at sender port with gauge. 4lbs at idle.
Holds pressure until warm then drops to zero at idle but normal above 1200 rpm.
i could do rebuild but 2 weeks for machine work.
Would do minimum of cam bearings and polished crank(if needed) along with other bearings ect.
Engine starts good and doesn’t smoke.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by 85e150
Explorer motor. Serving suggestion
Originally Posted by willymakeit
i could do rebuild but 2 weeks for machine work.
Would do minimum of cam bearings and polished crank(if needed) along with other bearings etc.
An Explorer engine would be a good start but would most likely still need a rebuild. You could drop that off to be rebuilt.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 11:50 AM
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You can get a short block from Ford. Reasonable price and best warranty I have seen offered. Still a chance it will have problems like all re manufactured engines but also your best bet to actually have the warranty honored.

A local rebuild is your best bet quality wise, but also the most time consuming.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 01:48 PM
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Add a quart, or maybe even 2 quarts, of Lucas oil stabilizer to the oil. This may get you a lot more life out of that engine. Just don't get the oil level too much above full. If after adding the Lucas the oil pressure still goes to zero when idling don't let it at idle speed for any length of time.

I have used the Lucas in some bad engines and got a lot more life out of them.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 04:32 PM
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If it doesn't smoke or knock, then I would save for a rebuild. That's what I did. I wouldn't stress about it, especially if it doesn't leak badly. I would probably run 10w-40 and just run it.

FWIW, I believe the 351C engines would have near 0 oil psi at idle and maybe around 20-30 When they were driven. That was a on a good day.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by timbersteel
If it doesn't smoke or knock, then I would save for a rebuild. That's what I did. I wouldn't stress about it, especially if it doesn't leak badly. I would probably run 10w-40 and just run it.

FWIW, I believe the 351C engines would have near 0 oil psi at idle and maybe around 20-30 When they were driven. That was a on a good day.
This. Pressure and flow are not the same thing. Pressure IS still important but if you're getting oil to your valve train then the pump is moving fluid decent. Does it knock or rattle?
 
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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by willymakeit
My 302 is giving up at 295,000 miles. Low oil to no pressure when warm . Erratic oil pressure caused me to hope and then install new pump with same results.
Thinking of buying a reman engine since I just don’t have a lot of time.
Any recommended companies?
Try straight 30 or 40 weight in it. I have had to do that with a couple of engines.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2019 | 12:47 PM
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I'd start with an accurate gauge, myself. The stock sender's not all that. And agreed, the difference between 5 psi and 0 psi is night and day.

t
 
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Old Aug 7, 2019 | 01:06 PM
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You could pull it out, put in new rod and main bearings and put it back in, in a weekend and that would be pretty cheap way to get your oil pressure up.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2019 | 08:44 AM
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at 300K, I'd call it a day and pull it for rebuild. I had an S10 I tried all manner of thicker oils, etc to no avail. There's just too much bearing material worn away to provide pressure. Bet your crank and rod bearings will be shiny brass looking.
 
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