You can use both but I'd go with the 6.5"s (if ever ordering new). Just make sure it's a true 6.5 as some (Morel I believe) are actually oversized 6.5 and won't fit.

I am 100% behind you with keeping the stock look or in my case I am making sure I have spares so I can easily swap back to stock if desired. Different situation since it has a metal one piece dash but in my 65 Mustang I left the stock radio in place and created a custom glovebox to house my aftermarket head unit.

Do you have one of the above radio clock units?

Your rosewood bezel looks like it would be good candidate for a generic trim piece since it's flat - doesn't have the built in trim in the way like the Burlwood single din bezel does.

 

I used 6.5's in mine had to drill new holes for 3 of the mounting tabs.
My stock stereo was the basic am/fm no frills unit. It wouldn't have been too bad if it had a tape deck, I still have a ton of tapes I could listen to.
But the reception on it sucked. It wouldn't tune anything in past 100, and the only channels I could pick up was a christian and country station.
I was ok with the country station but it hardly ever stayed locked on stereo. It was annoying.
FM reception is great with the new HU and all the other bells and whistles.

 

Above clock radio unit? I don't understand what you are asking? That wood bezel has the 3 window openings above the radio and I do not have the clock unit that fits in there.
I did find I think it was a 4 round pin connector in the lower radio area and thought might be for under dash lights but not sure and I did not get the wire colors.

The wiring, dash, etc. came from my Ranger parts truck and guessing it was an XL model? I don't have the door panel parts but that is ok with me at this time.

Thanks on the speaker size it looked like the ones I have may work then.

Thanks for the speaker size.
I see you got a shallow mount is there something inside the door that will hit the speaker like the glass?
My doors are empty of everything so I cant tell but looks to be far enough forward to clear that and the vent window frame.

Do you know how much room is between the face of the speaker if flat across and the door panel?
1 pair of speakers (the good ones) has a raised tweeter and wonder if it will hit the door panel.
Dave ----

edit: did either of you use a "speaker box" that the door speakers fit in to keep the sound out of the door and force the sound into the cab?
I have seen them but don't know if they work and if we have rood in the door to use them?

 

You do not want a box for the door speaker. The speaker uses the volume inside the door to reproduce bass frequencies. The larger the volume behind the speaker, the better bass response it has. Putting a box behind the speaker would help keep the weather out, but would severely reduce the bass response. There is nothing wrong with trying to shield the top half of the speaker to keep water out of it though.

 

Take the Ford trim piece off. Put the bezel you have on the new radio first like someone else suggested. Then adjust the new radio so with the bezel on it it sits just BEHIND the factory trim piece when you put it back on. It doesn't need to fit through the hole of the factory trim piece.

Idea #2. Poke the radio beyond the hole enough to where the new radio bezel is beyond the hole of the Ford trim piece. In this case it would be the last thing that snaps on, make it stick out just enough for the new trim piece to snap onto the radio.

 

I never gave that a thought so good I asked and it was also because of the weather too.
Thanks
Dave ----

 

Nothing behind the speakers to get in the way, I went shallow though just to be on the safe side.
There isn't much room, between the speaker and the door panel. I don't think a raised tweeter will work without modifying the door panel.
Now if the tweeter doesn't extend past the speaker itself you should be good.

I did use speaker baffles in my speakers and the bass response seems ok imo, maybe it's because the shallow speakers give some space but their is bass.
I cut a section out and pointed it towards the bottom of the door for the wires to enter.
I was concerned about bass response which was why I went with those speakers they had good reviews about their response.
I didn't try thumping it either and haven't blasted it yet. Just normal listening levels while putting around on the truck.
Have not driven it since the install yet either. That will be the test.

I'm not a bass head either fwiw, but if you want bass, you might as well install an amp and sub because 6.5's aren't going to do it anyway.

 

I found a hacked bezel on ebay for $10. I just cut all the way up past where the factory clock would have been (My truck doesnt have one). Then I just cut a piece of ABS plastic to fit, used a heat gun to bend it a little and super glued in the top corners. I plan on getting a single din radio with a motorized flip screen mainly so I can make use of a backup camera for when I have a camper on my bed. I figured if it doing it this way didnt work, I was only out $10-$12.

 

I am not putting a box in there but hadn't thought about a weather shroud either. Sounds like a good idea. If anyone makes one, I'd like to see some photos.

Here is the setup I have waiting to be installed after paint:

Door speakers: Kicker 46CSS654. Components so will have the tweeters mounted in the top corner of the door panel. Truck already came with remote tweeters here or else I would likely have a hard time drilling into the door panel.
Amp (under rear seat): Kicker 43DXA2504 Car Audio 4 Channel Amp DXA250.4 - placed in bridge mode to push 125w to the speakers
Sub (under rear seat): Kicker 11HS8 8" Hideaway Powered 150 Watt Subwoofer Enclosure Sub Box Hide Away

I am not a speaker guy so I went with this setup off of recommendations to make sure everyone can hear the lyrics (listen to 90's country primarily) clearly in the supercab.

 

Ha! Reading this thread is cracking me up. I used the same Infinity speakers, the Metra mounting kit and Metra speaker adapters & radio adapters. I like to keep everything all plug and play and not hack up the original wiring harness. I ran into the same issue you did. My solution? Black electrical tape on the bracket. Looks good and you'd have to know it's there to notice. .



Also when I did mine I bent the tabs to center it properly. I screwed the top right one in, pushed the radio hard over to the left and then screwed the bottom left one in. Then you can put the other two in if you want and it's centered, although it looks weird when you take the trim off. Let me know if you want more pics of my setup I'm happy to help.

 

Well those kicker door speakers are only rated for 100W so they could blow if someone turns your radio up.

 

Nice, I see what you mean, I can definitely try that.
I didn't use the speaker adapters because I ran new speaker wire. so it wasn't a big deal to just crimp some connectors on the new wire.
I left the original wire where it was except for the passenger door. I had a hard time fishing the new wire into the door, so I had the bright idea I'd just pull the old speaker wire out with the new wire attached.. Didn't work as planned but I eventually managed to fish the new wire thru the door "sleeve". I did take advantage of the radio adapter though.

 

.Yeah it definitely helped with the centering of the stereo. I was honestly a little disappointed with the fit of the din adapter, but it's amazing they still sell them so I can't complain too much!

Which baffles did you use by the way? The Boom Mat ones? Any issues with the window hitting them when you roll it down?

 

Trust me (being car audio ignorant), I had the same concern so contacted Kicker directly and was told that it won't be a problem at all. They have a safety margin built in and 25 over isn't a problem. I can't recall the specifics but the guy also said it was preferred - something about pushing more to them at lower levels and avoiding clipping.

 

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_237XT6...mnews=15626717
Don't believe so.