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Old Oct 30, 2003 | 02:30 PM
  #16  
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BlueRanger94
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are we sure that the increase in oil pressure with the motorcraft filter is not just because the motorcraft element design may restrict the oil flow more so than the fram (this could be where the possible better filtration comes in) resulting in more pressure?


Just a thought
 
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Old Oct 30, 2003 | 03:37 PM
  #17  
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jimandmandy
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From: Running Springs CA
The pressure sender is after the filter. Bypasses in the filter are "supposed" to open at a pressure difference way under 20psi.

Jim
 
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Old Oct 30, 2003 | 03:52 PM
  #18  
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BlueRanger94
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yup you got me there i forgot that the sender is after.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2003 | 06:03 PM
  #19  
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stevieweevie
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From: Adrian, MI
It been over twenty years since i last tried using a Fram filter. At that time Fram was advertising that their oil and air filters would trap more dirt than the competitor's filters. Until i bought one i didn't realize that the Fram filters would be more restrictive to flow than the competitor's brand.
 

Last edited by stevieweevie; Oct 30, 2003 at 06:17 PM.
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Old Oct 30, 2003 | 08:39 PM
  #20  
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farmwheels
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I guess I'll pile on here. I've seen Fram posts on this forum since I started lurking over a year ago but I guess they didn't sink in for me. When my wife's Subaru started knocking big time on start up, I called my Subaru mechanic neighbor. He didn't ask what brand of filter (it was a Fram) he just said with a noise complaint at the dealer the first thing they do is they change the oil and filter. I changed the oil and went to a Purolator and that solved it. Bad drainback valve evidently. In the same time period my '84 F150 with a 300 was taking a lot longer to quiet down after starting. A little wiser, I changed the filter to Motorcraft, noise stopped. I don't even need to know how poor Fram filter media is, their defective anti-drainback valves are enough for me to never buy one again.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2003 | 01:18 AM
  #21  
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Is the .50 you save on a fram filter worth Any engine issue?
 
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Old Nov 8, 2003 | 02:34 PM
  #22  
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oppy
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From: Scenic Wisconsin
Guess I've been lucky - I have used Fram filters for years, and I really haven't had any problems with them. I currently own a '93 Ranger with 185k and an '86 Chebby with the POS 6.2 diesel and 220k or so. The wife's minivan has 100k. I just got rid of a '93 Taurus with almost 190k. Never had an engine problem with any of them - zero. And I've owned a lot more high mileage junk over the years.

There was a user - "hiredgun" I think - that cut open a bunch of filters and came to the conclusion that the Frams were pretty good. Maybe he'll chime in here.

Now, I'm not saying they're the best out there. Personally, I think WIX/Napa Gold is far better, but the Fram sure is reasonably priced and easy to find. I have noticed that the "Fleet" filter I use in my Powerstroke is made a lot better than the regular ones.

true4.2 - wouldn't more oil coming out of a used filter be a sign of a poor anti-drainback valve and a potentially inferior filter?
 
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Old Nov 8, 2003 | 02:48 PM
  #23  
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Lariat
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From: Northeastern Pennsylvania
No Oppy, True is right. The reason for the anti-draneback valve is to keep the filter full of oil, so the motor is not starved when first started.
I too, will never use a fram.
Lariat
 
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Old Nov 8, 2003 | 04:26 PM
  #24  
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Lariat, your post makes no sense to me. If the drainback valve is working correctly, oil should stay in the filter rather than draining out when it's tipped. That's why oil filters have them.

Actually, in a situation where the filter hangs down, I don't really see the need for a drainback valve, since gravity should keep the filter full of oil.

Am I missing something?
 
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Old Nov 8, 2003 | 07:12 PM
  #25  
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sloerik
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From: San Luis Obispo
There is a huge difference between the Fram and then Wix or napa gold filters. The anti drain back valve in the fram and every other filter is made of nitrile, the valve in the wix is made of silicone. They silicone holds up a lot better to the high heat or the changes in the climate. Also the fram has paper end caps while the wix has metal end caps. The fram has 45 % less pleats in the paper as well. Let me know if you would like any more information on filters.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2003 | 01:46 PM
  #26  
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WillieWildcat
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From: Wichita, Kansas
One word: PUROLATOR

Actually Purolator Pure One, they are the best I've come across that are easily found. WIX are great too.

Couple Valvoline with Purolator and there are no worries my friend.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2003 | 04:13 PM
  #27  
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From: San Luis Obispo
The reason that the fram filter didn't have much oil come out was because the filter was already clogged up and the bypass valve was working and the oil wasn't going through the filter. The Halvoline filter was still working properly and that is why there was so much more oil in it when it came off.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2003 | 04:19 PM
  #28  
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Well that's a new one - first you guys said they don't filter anything and now they get plugged up. Next thing, they'll be blamed for premature tire wear.

If the filter was plugged, don't you think that might possibly be an oil or other non-filter problem?
 
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Old Nov 9, 2003 | 04:25 PM
  #29  
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sloerik
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From: San Luis Obispo
oopy have you ever seen a Fram filter cut open? Once you see what they look like on the inside you wouldn't use one either, the capacity of a fram is so little compared to other filters, there isn't much paper inside of them. There doesn't have to be another problem for a filter to plug up, that is why all the filter company's put bypass valves in them.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2003 | 04:51 PM
  #30  
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From: Scenic Wisconsin
And you got your engineering degree where, sloweric? So, in your expert opinion, what faulty manufacturing would make a filter plug all by itself, especially one that doesn't have "much paper" inside?

Yes, I have seen a number of Fram filters cut open - several pics posted here and I have done one or 2 myself. Yes, some of the Frams have cardboard endcaps, but I have never seen any data which shows this is a problem in properly maintained engines (you change your oil when you are supposed to). They all meet or exceed OEM specs. As I recall, years ago, Consumer Reports said that your beloved Purolators were junk too, so how come they're so great now?

This is just like the "Brand X oil sludged up my engine" or the "Brand Y air intake dusted my engine" goofballs - it's all nonsense!

All I know is I have been using them for a long, long time and I (and millions of others) have not had any problems with them.
 
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