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Just changed the plugs and coils in my 05 5.4 Triton hesitation gone can phaser a little noisier but otherwise fine. 2weeks and a couple hundred miles later I got some hesitation and a cel. Pulled the code- misfire in cylinder 5. When I pulled the coil and plug I found the band on the new plug gone see photo. I replaced with a spare plug and a new coil. Not sure what I'm up against if there is metal in the cylinder from the plug and what made it come off. Scared to drive it, but don't have the time or will power to pull the head or replace the motor.
That electrode strap didn't just fall off as you were removing the plug.
Meaning - if the strap was going to do any damage banging around in there, it ALREADY HAS, as the engine was almost absolutely certain it was running at the time.
The biggest risk, you've already escaped. The piece could have gotten caught under a valve seat (leaving slack in the lash adjuster to roller/follower to cam lobe because the valve spring didn't raise the valve stem up as far as normal. If that happened the roller/follower can literally just fall to the side during the other cycle stroke.
I have never experienced it. But I would put the new plug in and go for it. I think the only place you'd ever find that piece would be in the CAT.
That's one of the newest SP-546 plugs, I just put 8 new ones in my '07. Saw where the strap or ground electrode was welded to shield. I have a new set of SP-515s that are made like the OEM SP-507s were, guess I'll keep as spares for awhile.
I hope this is very rare.
I agree, likely you are past any other issue with that missing strap. It's probably in the exhaust system / cat somewhere.
Thanks for the replies. I took it the scenic route to dinner last night and put 30 miles on it and everything is running fine. The new plug that was damaged was an SP-546, I had some SP-514s sitting around from when I first decided to change the plugs. After 2 broke off when removing the old plugs, I bought SP-546s to not deal with that again. Should have stuck with the 514s, I may pull all of them this weekend and swap to 514s. I doubt motorcraft will do anything for me.
Thanks for the replies. I took it the scenic route to dinner last night and put 30 miles on it and everything is running fine. The new plug that was damaged was an SP-546, I had some SP-514s sitting around from when I first decided to change the plugs. After 2 broke off when removing the old plugs, I bought SP-546s to not deal with that again. Should have stuck with the 514s, I may pull all of them this weekend and swap to 514s. I doubt motorcraft will do anything for me.
Don't freak over one bad plug. For as many plugs as they produce, there will be a few bad examples. But the 546's are FAR better than the old designs. Stick with'em, or deal with broken plugs later. And no, Motorcraft won't do anything for you. No harm, no foul (except a little labor). Count your lucky stars that it didn't cost you a motor. And yeah, this could've, and does, happen with other manufactures.
It was not tight, it should have been torqued down 25 to 28 foot pounds with a torque wrench not by feel . That carbon around the tip would be glowing white hot with the exchange of gases going by plug / The oxygen being pulled in during suction makes it act like a cutting torch . Look at that carbon going up the threads and stem .If not torqued down they can and do loosen up . Frequent problem .
The sp546 is a good plug the 515;s are not , they had manuf errors that caused the porcelain inside to break down ,you could tell them by the blue weld . Its best to melt that carbon out of cyly tip area with carb cleaner when plugs out . Nothing you put in fuel is going to burn that tough carbon out of that recess , and that carbon breaks plugs going in and out. Double check all plug torques before you are done . Mechanics are in a hurry ,you will do a better job if you try . Carbon is one of the toughest things on earth .
