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heres the details: 2014 f350 6.7, 87000 miles
egr/dpf delete
cold air intake upgrade
cold side charge pipe/throttle body delete upgrade
coolant filter system
H&S minimaxx tuner
my issue is that using light to moderate pedal push (stock tune) accelerating to 40mph, im pushing 7-800 degrees, and the truck feels laggy. boost appears to be normal, all operating temps are up to normal. if I punch it, ill break 1000deg no problem. i am trying to figure out why this is happening "all of a sudden". Is this a clogged intercooler problem, if so what do I look for? is this an exhaust issue, looking at upgrading to a 5" downpipe back. I dont want to just throw parts at it, but im running out of ideas. Im hoping the answer is right in front of me, i just cant see the forest through the trees so to speak. any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks guys!
If it's been fine, I don't know how the 4" exhaust would be an issue. How much boost do you know it is building? This description is very close to the stuck VGT vanes issue on a stock 2011 but in that case, boost is < 3 psi or generally nothing at all.
Kper05,
boost builds to about 10psi, 15-18 if I punch it. Still on stock tune. After I get up to speed, be it highway or main road; the temps seem to level off. I have to pull a 9000# TT this weekend through grades, and I just want to make sure I’m not going to damage anything. If it is stuck vanes, how do I verify that, and is it an easy fix?
@senix thanks for the help, checked coolant, levels are good. Just had the main wiring harness replace because I wasn’t getting any power to pin 1 on the cooling fan power supply, rodents ate the wires 😡. So she’s got all new coolant and a new thermostat to boot. The more I read, I wonder if I’m ok. Hot air moves faster than cold, so if I keep trying to lower my egts, does this hurt at some point? Is the 5” exhaust more for show/sound? Or will it increase performance? Sorry with all newbie questions, my first diesel and I picked a real winner🤢
I don't think you will benefit from bigger exhaust. These motors typically like to run a bit hotter than older ones, they are more efficient in the range they have then from the factory.
You should have 21 PSI without an issue at WOT. For "cold side charge pipe/throttle body delete upgrade" do you mean the CAC pipe isn't the factory one?
You should have 21 PSI without an issue at WOT. For "cold side charge pipe/throttle body delete upgrade" do you mean the CAC pipe isn't the factory one?
Yes the “CAC” pipe is not factory. I’m not getting much boost, like I said, 10-15psi if I punch it. The EGTs seem to be slowly climbing, like there’s a blockage somewhere, she’s not breathing right. I know the previous owner idled the motor (no high idle switch) almost as long as he drove it. The egr was clogged. I am wondering if the intercooler by the battery is clogged as well? I don’t know where to to look for restrictions... any ideas?
holding pedal to the floor, boost won’t go above 20psi, stops dead. Egts, 1050, on stock tube, no load. travel at 65-70 I’m 775-850. It’s probably just in my head, but it seems high.
Thanks for all the help guys!
I vote checking, maybe replacing the MAP sensor as well. A bad MAP sensor, in my experience, will cause the truck to run as if it were stopped up. It's a $70 sensor so I hate to recommend throwing parts at an issue but it is difficult to clean without damaging it (I tried that as well). I agree those numbers are high for cruising speed.
I vote checking, maybe replacing the MAP sensor as well. A bad MAP sensor, in my experience, will cause the truck to run as if it were stopped up. It's a $70 sensor so I hate to recommend throwing parts at an issue but it is difficult to clean without damaging it (I tried that as well). I agree those numbers are high for cruising speed.
Thanks kper05, I’ll swing by ford tonight on way home and grab a MAP sensor, I’ll report back if theres any changes. Hopefully this clears it up!
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