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Old Jul 24, 2019 | 09:45 PM
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Oil Analysis




Would you run 10,000 miles next time as they suggest? This is on Amsoil Signature 5w40 and running a bypass filter also.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2019 | 10:26 PM
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You will get mixed responses here. A rebuilt engine will cost you north of $10k. A simple oil change including filter will cost $125 or less. The 6.0 shears the oil. I would be curious for someone to take the bypass filter challenge and go 25,000 miles.

I sent my oil to Blackstone numerous times and it always had good results even without a bypass filter.

I am building my own bypass filter for my 5.4 gas vehicle. Oil changes are $43. With or without the bypass filter I will be changing every 7k. Before I sold my 6.0, I changed the oil every 5-7k miles. I spent over $800 on oil changes in 45k miles.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2019 | 11:40 AM
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No. The 6.0 not only is hard on oil but the injectors do best with fresh oil.

I've used $11/gallon 15w-40 for 180k miles changed every 5k with fantastic results. I see no need to use synthetic in the 6.0. The latest manual revision even says to use 15w-40 over 5w-40 for severe duty use.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2019 | 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by High_HP
No. The 6.0 not only is hard on oil but the injectors do best with fresh oil.

I've used $11/gallon 15w-40 for 180k miles changed every 5k with fantastic results. I see no need to use synthetic in the 6.0. The latest manual revision even says to use 15w-40 over 5w-40 for severe duty use.

Most of the 6.0L manuals were written before Ford had their own brand on a 5W40 oil. It is thought (by some) that this played a role in their recommendations.

The thought that a 5W40 wouldn't work as well as a 15W40 in severe service is not really logical. They are both 40 weight oils.

Edit - I just pulled this from the latest edition for the 2010 E-series 6.0L (Diesel Supplement - creation date Aug 2009):
Heavier SAE 15W–40 and SAE 5W–40 engine oils are
recommended for temperature over 50°F (10°C) and must be
used for heavy duty driving and trailer towing.












Some folks say that a 15W40 will shear more slowly than a 5W40, but that isn't always true. It depends a lot on the choice of a base oil. A PAO base oil will shear more slowly than a severely hydrocracked oil. Both are considered synthetics nowdays.

akblackfoot - it really looks like a decent oil report, The viscosity is pretty low - in the middle of the 30 wt range. Personally I wouldn't want to see it any lower, but a number of people that are using a 10W30 (even in severe service) have run 7500 and even 10,000 miles on their oil and have good UOA to go along with it. The viscosities I have seen from those folks are getting VERY close to the bottom of the 30 wt range. I couldn't do that - just too many unanswered questions still in why certain things (like lifter failures) happen.

I just had a conversation w/ one of the "regulars" on BITOG about oil choice and he essentially states the same thing about the 6.0L not really needing a synthetic oil. We talked about oil temperatures and the fact that the EOT we see is actually the coolest oil temperature you will see. The oil pan oil can be up to 50 degrees hotter than the EOT reading and internal oil temps can be even higher. For folks that really work their engine hard and they push EOT values up to 230 and 240, then a PAO based synthetic oil might have some very real benefits.

I will say for certain though - there are less posts about stiction from the 5W40 oil users than the 15W40 users. I haven't seen any posts about stiction from 10W30 users either, but I don't see very many posts from people using that oil anymore.
 
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