Would that still apply to a 05 neon front wheel drive? So all cars and trucks?

 

forward to back play when moving tire on car at 3&9 is normally an indication of worn components in steering linkage. usually in the tie rod ends.
movement in the 12&6 directions is an indication or play in ball joints or wheel bearings.

and this goes for all vehicles.

 

thank you!

 

Just a Google picture I found.

 

figured that and was busting your chops.
wasn't sure if that was one of the tires for the "B" or not

 

LOL!!! Ya, kinda figured.

B model wheel weights getting repurposed................

 

Last month while coming down the Sonora Pass on the Eastern side I had my front driver's side brake caliper not retracting all the way and the rotor became hot. Attribute the caliper not retracting all the way, to not using the 95 F-150 frequent enough, truck being stored for long periods. So I replaced the front calipers and re-packed the driver's front wheel bearing. I attempted to re-install the front wheels and noticed the newer style adhesive tire balance weights were hitting on the top of the brake caliper when I spun the wheel. Strange, because the replacement calipers were Ford OEM remanufactured from Rock Auto. I scraped off the adhesive wheel weights from inside both wheels and took the wheels with the tires mounted in to get re-balanced but with the older style weight weights that attach to the rim's edge. My wheels are OEM aluminum on the 95 F-150. Planning one more fishing trip after Labor Day and then the tires will be ready for rotation.
Was my first time over the Sonora Pass with the 27% decent grade. Last Summer I reported on the forum of the problems I had with the E4OD not shifting into over drive because of the LED bulb I installed in the Third Brake Light, put the incandescent bulb back in and the transmission shifted perfectly. Using A/C and loaded with ~ 700 LBS of gear averaged 20.4 MPG.

 

i do not use sticky weights unless the rim does not have a lip.
as far as the argument of must have weights on both sides of the tires, none of the vehicles i service will go over 100 MPH so one side balance works perfectly fine.

i will even go as far as to say my machine will balance perfectly fine up to 170 mph.
although i will not drive that fast ever again, i did have the 7 litre that fast on radar about 20 years ago.

 

I would prefer stick on weights on aluminum wheels, at least on the outside edge. The person that balanced the tires did not put them in the correct place/ make sure they weren’t contacting anything. A long time ago I bought a set of Alcoa 15x10 wheels for my Bronco and I never had the old beat/pound on weights on them. They will scar the rim.

 

I've always taken my wheels to the tire shop, hauling them in the bed of my Ranger over the years, preventing the shop from applying excess torque tightening my lug nuts. On a similar subject, I've been found to Weld Drag Lite aluminum wheels, too bad they don't make them for our Ford trucks. Alcoa is an exceptionally good wheel with a long standing reputation.

 

I’ve had excellent luck with these balance beads, instead of weights: https://checkeredflagtirebalancebeads.com/

I’ve got the beads on:

• 1993 F250
• 1997 F350
• 2018 Raptor
• 12,000 lb two axle trailer

All of them run true. And yes...the Raptor has seen speeds in excess of 100 mph, and still ran smooth.

FYI...on all of my vehicles, the road surface makes a difference on how smooth the steering wheel feels in my hands. Get on a smooth road to make sure that the issue is with the balance.

Best of luck.

 

Ending up being worn out tie rods, causing the problem. Still will have them rebalance the tires correctly.Thanks guys!

 

Correctly balanced tires will actually be mounted true on the balancer. Can be tricky sometimes, and a vehicle with a clad wheel needs a special cone ect... Back of wheel hub also needs to be clean as well as the center hub mating surface 90% of shops will not bother to clean or make sure anything is actually 'right'. Static/ one side balancing is fine on a truck, but dynamic balancing is obviously better.. Then after spinning the tire/ rim assembly on the balancer, if the machine calls for a weight across from a weight it's time to rip all the weight off you just installed, re calibrate and try again..

As far as re balancing. If I get a re balance job, it's usually from another shop. But I'll stick a tire/ wheel on the balancer and spin it. If it's out by .5 oz or so and the weight won't cross then I'll stick a weight on and respin. If that one or any others are farther out then I'll strip the weight off all of them and start from scratch.. Some tires are wobbly and won't balance because the shop did not seat the bead correctly, or used no lube. Seen it all.. I work at a fairly high end locally owned tire shop. Pay slightly more for our service but it's worth more too. And we do Ag/ Industrial tires as well as Commercial tires including split rims on occasion

 

i remove all weights and re-balance if off by more than 1/4 ounce.
and if i have to break the bead to do a tire repair, the same thing. all weights removed before the tire goes on the balancer.
just my way of doing things so i know in my mind it is done correctly.