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Highly disappointed while attempting to replace front rotors
So I got myself new pads, calipers, and rotors for my 85 F250HD 4WD. Sat down to take the wheel off and am greeted with what I was not expecting; The wheel hub in front of the rotor!
I was/am not prepared to take apart the front hubs. Partially afraid of things I might find in there. I suspect I need to take off everything to get the rotor free and off, right?
Any good write-ups or videos to link? My shop manuals are clear as mud on this one.
Here's a link to a recent thread about this. I put a you tube link in one of the posts that will guide you through a lot of it, with minor differences in the brake area. Just doing the rotors you will not have to take the spindle cone off either. You will want to get some heavy wheel bearing grease, and new grease seals. If inspection reveals it, a new bearing or two may be required. In other words, this is your first time, don't rush it.
Great tip about the clothes! I could have embarrassed myself pretty good.
So I am getting the impression that the hub and rotor will be tied together by the studs? Am I looking at needing a shop press to press out the studs?
Should not but you will need new studs and a few nuts and flat washer.
Use a good hammer and wack them out, swap rotors to the hub and using a new stud , flat washers, nut and little grease put a stud in and line up the holes a few flat washers with grease between them and a nut upside down. Do the same in a hole across from the one just installed.
Now start to tighten the nuts up a little on each side till the hub and rotor are together. Now work your way around installing the rest of the studs.
OR
Could go to HF and buy a press and all the new studs, should never reuse the old ones,and press them in yourself.
OR
You could take all the new studs, should never reuse the old ones, to the machine shop and have them press them in.
Dave ----
Yeah, wouldn't want to reuse the studs anyways. Borderline cross threaded. So what studs are recommended? I can go look up what AZ will give me if there is nothing special.
Not afraid of hammering. Seen the washer trick too. Debating if I can rationalize buying a shop press. It's quite the show in my head. Would take longer I can imagine.
The studs are nothing fancy but you do need the right size knurl dia. & length and the thread size & length you will be ok.
When looking at AZ site I saw something about a stud installer I have always used the washer trick.
Dave ----
The studs are nothing fancy but you do need the right size knurl dia. & length and the thread size & length you will be ok.
When looking at AZ site I saw something about a stud installer I have always used the washer trick.
Dave ----
Looked at it and all it had going for it was that it being in one piece and the recess for the nut cone.
Need to get an axle spindle nut socket (thinking that is the name) but I see different styles when I search for an f250hd 4x4. Do I need just the 4 pronged version or the one with 4 offset inverted prongs (and some are wavey)?
They make a bunch of different ones to fit different axles.
The wavy ones are stamped sockets for a large nut.
If you can see what you need then rent one so you know it will work then if you feel you need one to then buy it.
Dave - - - -
Need to get an axle spindle nut socket (thinking that is the name) but I see different styles when I search for an f250hd 4x4. Do I need just the 4 pronged version or the one with 4 offset inverted prongs (and some are wavey)?
I used the 4 prong one when I did the brakes & hubs on my 1994 Bronco. Should be the same but the only way to know for sure is to take the hub off and see what the nut looks like.
Yeah, my local AZ has both styles. They are actually pretty cool with returns. I can clean something up really good and they would take a return. Always do store credit since so maybe that helps.
Guess my final question would be what seals would I have to replace if any? I did not see any seals when looking at some write ups and a couple videos. Also, I don't plan on messing with the wheel bearings just yet.
Yeah, my local AZ has both styles. They are actually pretty cool with returns. I can clean something up really good and they would take a return. Always do store credit since so maybe that helps.
Guess my final question would be what seals would I have to replace if any? I did not see any seals when looking at some write ups and a couple videos. Also, I don't plan on messing with the wheel bearings just yet.
I would replace the gaskets that go behind the locking hubs if you can find them. When I did mine I converted from the auto locking hubs to manual ones so that was all new.
I would really recommend doing the bearings, since you're right there. The inner one (on my Bronco at least) went inside the back of the rotor so I had to anyways.
Yeah, my local AZ has both styles. They are actually pretty cool with returns. I can clean something up really good and they would take a return. Always do store credit since so maybe that helps.
Guess my final question would be what seals would I have to replace if any? I did not see any seals when looking at some write ups and a couple videos. Also, I don't plan on messing with the wheel bearings just yet.
Like the previous poster mentioned, I would clean and inspect the bearings, you are right there. When you pull the large bearing out of the back of the hub, you will have to pull the grease seal first and it never comes out without damage. I would get two of those, and a couple of cans of brake cleaner and a small can of wheel bearing grease. If the bearing races or the bearing rollers have any black pits, then you need to replace them. Pat yourself on the back that you caught it before it went out completely.
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