Replace oil pan 7.3
Ready to go
Getting it in the air.
seems the least likely to cause other damage to parts. So I’ll keep my progress posted and plan on starting tomorrow so wish me luck and if you have any last minute advice or insights please don’t hesitate to chime in
as described in the guys YouTube vid the cab has to be loosened and raised as does the engine. It’s IMPORTANT to do it in stages though. Lift the body two inches then lift the engine two inches, rinse repeat until it’s a the needed height. DO NOT REMOVE the rear transmission nuts. Yes by all means loosen them so they’re holding by a half dozen threads. If you remove the nuts the engine will be free to move forward and side to side and the pan ain’t never coming out. It’s also a really good idea to remove the front sway bar completely so the lifting doesn’t crush the transmission cooler line as well as the bottom rad hoses. Obviously I didn’t remove the sway bar and I have some repairs to make. Because I removed the transmission mount nuts I used a little bottle jack between the starter and the cross member to push the damn thing back far enough for the pan to drop.
So I finally got the new pan ‘made in China, (what isn’t these days), now doing it over I’d really carefully check it against the old before trying to fit it, that would have told me I’d have to grind a bit more relief around the filter housing. The Moroso rubber gasket is a thing of beauty but the f*#%@ing thing flops all over and it damn near impossible to keep it in place for the mount. So I came up with an idea, which was to tie string through the holes of the gasket and pan at the corners. Now if I had todo it over I’d use slip knots to make getting the string out a lot easier.
The whole process has taken about a week and a half and thankfully the weather was great.
This how high the cab has to lift
This shows the battered the old pan and I didn’t want to do that to the new pan so I built a cradle to put the weight against the flanges.




