Calling all who have experience in setting the driveline angles, welding in your motor mounts/trans crossmember & pinion angle and then drove your ride with SUCCESS and NO vibration issues or premature wear, the reason I ask for advice from the experienced folks only is the internet is full of OPINION even the magazine experts vary.

Most agree at least 1/2 degree difference at each end of the drive shaft to "work" the grease in the U-joints is needed ...I get that

So right now I am temporary mocked up with the truck on the ground/suspension loaded

Engine/trans 4 degrees (which puts the carb mounting surface at 0 degrees/level)[using Holley Sniper anyway so not really an issue]
driveshaft 3 degrees
rear end 2.5 degrees

That leaves me at a 1 degree difference for the front u joint & a 1/2 degree on the rear u joint

This is the first time I've done this and want to get it right the first time(who doesn't) I know I tend to over think things ALOT but like I said who wants to go back and redo when you have the time to do it right!?

PLEASE if you do not have Experience in these matters please refrain from possibly giving information that may not be real world, don't mean to sound like a jerk but all the internet opinions have me tearing my hair out already.

Thanks in advance

 

With my 5.0L and AOD install I also had to offset the engine about 1 1/2" to passenger side to allow for steering clearance on driver side.

You are within the ballpark for the engine -transmission angles, but make sure you also get the appropriate length for the driveshaft as well. I have a modified driveshaft because I have a 90's engine.transmission mated to a 2001 rear axle. I got a driveline shop to cut and balance the driveshaft, and confirm proper length to allow for travel when cornering.

 

Ok, I'll be a jerk. I have relied on Drivelines NW many times in marine and industrial applications and trust them implicitly. Yes, I have experience but not specific to your application.

https://www.drivelinesnw.com/part-tr...ngle-problems/

 

Google driveshaft angle and phasing and watch the video I was very amazed . Sorry but I'm terrible with links .

 

Just match the pinion angle (preferably with the truck on ground at close to normal weight) to the tailshaft angle. Nothing you can do about driveshaft angle, it is what it is.

If you have a high-HP application, there may be other factors. Give us more info, please.

 

It doesn’t get any more real world experienced than right out of the Spicer manual. These guys have been building u-joints and drive lines for 100 years and this manual should be considered the bible of driveline installation. Much of this is geared towards big trucks, but the principles are universal. (Pun intended!)

Spicer Driveline Installation Service Manual User Manual | 24 pages

 

In your numbers you also did not indicate up or down on your measurements. e.g. pinion 2.5 deg. is that pinion up or down?

 

Yeh I am within spec according to American Powertrain/TREMEC with a 7/8" machined surface showing at the tail shaft/front yoke.

I spec the rear axle pinion to Center so engine is centered also

 

may or may not help

https://jniolon.classicpickup.com/dr...nephasing.html

 

I can’t emphasize the need to set your vehicle height BEFORE working your drive shaft length. I’m THAT GUY that didn’t consider that dropping my rear suspension would shorten my drive shaft need. Sooo $300 to a learning experience.

 

For those who want the Spicer Driveline Manual without the software download go here:

https://www.waterousco.com/media/wys...311-1-DSSP.pdf

Philip

 

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Yes the truck is sitting "on the ground" or cinder blocks so I have room to work underneath, the driveshaft was measured for in this state of on the ground (as is All figures I am using in these posts) and has 7/8" machined surface showing on the front yoke which is up to spec according to American Powertrain where I purchased the trans and who supplied the driveshaft after giving them my 54-5/8" dimension (dimension between trans tail shaft and rear end yoke)
Disregard the 5% in my pic... I meant to write 5 degrees, as you can see TCI (parabolic spring kit)calls for 5 degrees UP (some call this 5 degrees down but you get the picture here, it is UP towards the trans) After setting it on the ground it settled in at 2.5 degrees

Of course engine/trans is 4 degrees DOWN and drive shaft is 3 degrees DOWN

The 4 degrees down on the engine puts the carb mounting surface at 0 degrees or LEVEL which seems optimum to me although with the Holley Sniper I don't think that's really a big deal

 

Thanks AZAV8 for the link to the pdf. Can definitely use it.