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Put door weatherstrip on my '79 bronco from LMC. Now the doors don't shut. Seems that the weatherstrip is too thick. Anyone know of a better source for it? I don't want to buy from somewhere else and end up with the same stuff.
While I'm at it can someone with factory weather stripping post up a close up picture of it from a couple angles?
I have this same issue on my '79 f-150, just not as severe. The doors will shut but have to be slammed. To the point that the interior door panels are coming loose. They have been on a year now and haven't compressed any. Thanks.
Check your door striker post. If the plastic bushing on the post is missing then replace it. I think some people use 1/2“ Pex but I bought new srtriker post with the correct bushings. This made a world of difference for me.
Striker has been adjusted, as have the door hinges, not helpful. I had a friend that does bodywork professionally mess with it too. I ended up pulling out the weatherstrip and readjusting the door so it shuts fine without the weatherstrip, guess I had to start over.
Plastic is missing from my striker posts, the Pex sounds like a good idea. Having it would be ideal, but I'm not looking for perfection, I just want to be able to shut my doors all the way without slamming them so bad the door panels come apart. My kids still have trouble with the doors on my f-150 and that's been on a year. I think it just not compressible/soft enough.
https://www.soffseal.com/ss-fd9009 I've heard good reviews on this weather stripping. I'm probably going to use this when I swap the cab on mine. I used the complete set from DC for my Bronco this year and found the same problem you're having.
Mark.
Very common n about any vehicle with new door seals. I've used all the brands, which is actually 1 or 2 if you new the truth and it's always a problem.
sometimes you can mess around with it and make it better and sometimes you just have to wait for them to take a set. and they will. some guys have used a heat gun and shut the door until it cools, just keep doing it until they compress. I've never tried it but they say it works. or just keep the door shut tight and it will get better .
Getting good striker posts will make a huge difference in how the door closes. Fix those first.
Get the doors adjusted right with no bind or twist with new strikers and the door should just click click shut. Body shop guy was chatting with me one day about something unrelated when I closed the door on my 78. He looked at me and said damn.
You should adjust your doors with the striker off. then install it and adjust closing depth.
I did just that. Then added the weatherstrip and the door would barely shut, even with considerable slamming, and still wasn't flush with the quarter panel. I could try the heat thing, wouldn't hurt.
I still think that the weatherstrips are just to hard. The set in my f-150 has been on a year a still shuts hard.
People say over and over to readjust the striker. Like was said the striker sets how far in the door goes, I don't want the door sticking out a half inch.
Looks like I'll try the heat deal on the door that I haven't pulled the seal off of, if that doesn't work I'll order a set for Soft seal or Steele Rubber.
Figured I'd add a picture, everyone like pictures.
Another great option is a set of door seals from a 1980-1996 style truck. Instead of gluing on, they clip onto the pinch weld. They go right on, and are even a bit too long, so you cut the overlap along the bottom/rocker. You just need to spread and flatten the clip-channel where it goes under the scuff guard.
I put some form the junk yard on my truck, and they work great, and didn't make the doors harder to shut.
I thought you were doing a 2WD build on the Bronco - I posted in the thread you made about it on Foureyedpride.
there are at the most a couple manufacturers of these. metro and Steele make 90% of the seals for most older vehicles. lots of other brands put their name on them but you're getting the same product.
I haven't noticed much difference. I put the Metro set on my Ford and they were a little tight at first but now they're perfect. it just takes time for them to set.
Just to confirm, you are indeed using 1973-1979 weatherstripping? If so, I think I know what your problem might be.
Are you going to share it with the class?
Most everyone on here is telling him the same solution. Replace the plastic on the door striker and then proceed, I agree with that assessment. I was having one helluva time with my truck. The second I replaced the plastic, bam... Fixed and works great.
My buddy just down the street from me, he and I trade machining work with one another all the time. He is awesome with his Lathe, I had him turn some from Delrin for mine. Never going to need to replace those ever again.
Most everyone on here is telling him the same solution. Replace the plastic on the door striker and then proceed, I agree with that assessment. I was having one helluva time with my truck. The second I replaced the plastic, bam... Fixed and works great.
My buddy just down the street from me, he and I trade machining work with one another all the time. He is awesome with his Lathe, I had him turn some from Delrin for mine. Never going to need to replace those ever again.
Well of course I will my friend! From my build thread. Look for the bold text at the bottom - it applies to all door weatherstripping.
Originally Posted by Aaron-71
I scraped off my old weatherstripping on the top of the doors and installed new stuff. No before photo, sorry.
Sprayed with brake cleaner and wiped down well, then let dry. Sprayed a thin layer of primer before laying down some glue and the weatherstripping.
Part Number: Fairchild F3063 on RockAuto - sold individually, so you need 2
Trim 4-6" to fit, but they are perfect.
The doors close soooooooo nicely now. A single "thud" when closing, and you can feel the positive seal inside the cab when both doors are closed.
Excellent product, 3M Weatherstripping adhesive used to attach to the doors.
To keep the door from being impossible to close, you need to create small holes in the weatherstripping every 6" - 8". I don't have a picture of this, but I used a utility knife to cut a very small slit every 6" to 8" to allow air to escape from the weatherstripping. If you don't do this, your doors will feel impossible to close because the weatherstripping acts as a 'balloon' from the air being trapped inside. Sounds crazy, but make some very small holes in your weatherstripping if you're having to slam your doors all the time - it makes a world of difference.
