1994 E150 transmission question
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
1994 E150 transmission question
Just purchased a 94 e150 econoline. 5.0 with 128k on it. Overall the van is in real good shape. Couple of questions about the transmission.
1. Having some confusion as to what transmission is in this vehicle. On the side is it stamped with AODE-W.
Is this the same transmission as the 4r70w? Little confused.
2. The transmission is experiencing a rough 1-2 shift. Feels like it has a shift kit in it. Only happens on the 1-2 shifts, the 2-3, and 3 to overdrive shift fine. Any suggestions on trouble shooting this would be much appreciated.
1. Having some confusion as to what transmission is in this vehicle. On the side is it stamped with AODE-W.
Is this the same transmission as the 4r70w? Little confused.
2. The transmission is experiencing a rough 1-2 shift. Feels like it has a shift kit in it. Only happens on the 1-2 shifts, the 2-3, and 3 to overdrive shift fine. Any suggestions on trouble shooting this would be much appreciated.
Super Moderator
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 34,527
Likes: 2,830
Welcome to FTE.
In the beginning of overdrive automatics, there was the AOD. Mechanical, troublesome, finally worked out in the '88-'93 models. AODE followed, then 4R70W. All with the same basics, some parts interchange, and the same 14 bolt pan, with a very similar shape.
In the beginning of overdrive automatics, there was the AOD. Mechanical, troublesome, finally worked out in the '88-'93 models. AODE followed, then 4R70W. All with the same basics, some parts interchange, and the same 14 bolt pan, with a very similar shape.
Frmr Ford Trans Engr
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 24,739
Likes: 2,669
From: SE Florida
That is a 4R70W. It was going to be called the AODE-W, but the decision was made to use SAE naming conventions, so it became the 4R70W. The dies to make the cases had already been made.
Get the codes read.
Get the codes read.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Im having a hard time finding a obd-1 reader in stock anywhere near me
Super Moderator
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 34,527
Likes: 2,830
Google "how to read Ford obd 1" and find dozens of hits and videos. It's a bit of a pita.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/fo...-and-retrieval
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/fo...-and-retrieval
Frmr Ford Trans Engr
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 24,739
Likes: 2,669
From: SE Florida
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,505
Likes: 257
From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
I might not have anything too useful to offer. But I had a 1995 Crown Victoria with the ever so reliable 4.6L SOHC V8 backed by a 4R70W transmission, going back a few years. During my first couple years of ownership, I began to experience very noticeably harsh 1-2 shifts. It turned out to be the 1-2 shift accumulator spring had broken. The fix for it, was to replace the accumulator spring, along with accumulator piston. If I recall correctly, the valve body didn't need to be removed to access it either.
BTW, if I'm not mistaken AOD-E transmissions have a 1st gear ratio of 2.55:1 and 2nd gear ratio of 1.45:1, while 4R70W transmissions have a 2.84:1 1st gear and a 1.55:1 2nd gear, hence the 'W' to denote wide ratio.
BTW, if I'm not mistaken AOD-E transmissions have a 1st gear ratio of 2.55:1 and 2nd gear ratio of 1.45:1, while 4R70W transmissions have a 2.84:1 1st gear and a 1.55:1 2nd gear, hence the 'W' to denote wide ratio.
Trending Topics
Frmr Ford Trans Engr
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 24,739
Likes: 2,669
From: SE Florida
I might not have anything too useful to offer. But I had a 1995 Crown Victoria with the ever so reliable 4.6L SOHC V8 backed by a 4R70W transmission, going back a few years. During my first couple years of ownership, I began to experience very noticeably harsh 1-2 shifts. It turned out to be the 1-2 shift accumulator spring had broken. The fix for it, was to replace the accumulator spring, along with accumulator piston. If I recall correctly, the valve body didn't need to be removed to access it either.
BTW, if I'm not mistaken AOD-E transmissions have a 1st gear ratio of 2.55:1 and 2nd gear ratio of 1.45:1, while 4R70W transmissions have a 2.84:1 1st gear and a 1.55:1 2nd gear, hence the 'W' to denote wide ratio.
BTW, if I'm not mistaken AOD-E transmissions have a 1st gear ratio of 2.55:1 and 2nd gear ratio of 1.45:1, while 4R70W transmissions have a 2.84:1 1st gear and a 1.55:1 2nd gear, hence the 'W' to denote wide ratio.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 6 Best Deals Available on New Fords & Lincolns Right Now
Brett Foote
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
So there are no codes being thrown. So most likely it’s a shift accumulator spring, or piston from what I was told by a transmission shop.
It has a front pump and a main seal leak so it has to come out. I don’t see the point of removing the trans just to fix the seal and accumulator. Especially since it has 128k miles on it. So I decided to purchase a freshly rebuilt one for a good deal. It’s going to the trans shop in a few days.
I want to replace the trans cooler lines as they are pretty rusty, however I am having a hard time sourcing the parts. Any suggestions?
It has a front pump and a main seal leak so it has to come out. I don’t see the point of removing the trans just to fix the seal and accumulator. Especially since it has 128k miles on it. So I decided to purchase a freshly rebuilt one for a good deal. It’s going to the trans shop in a few days.
I want to replace the trans cooler lines as they are pretty rusty, however I am having a hard time sourcing the parts. Any suggestions?
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
So there are no codes being thrown. So most likely it’s a shift accumulator spring, or piston from what I was told by a transmission shop.
It has a front pump and a main seal leak so it has to come out. I don’t see the point of removing the trans just to fix the seal and accumulator. Especially since it has 128k miles on it. So I decided to purchase a freshly rebuilt one for a good deal. It’s going to the trans shop in a few days.
I want to replace the trans cooler lines as they are pretty rusty, however I am having a hard time sourcing the parts. Any suggestions?
It has a front pump and a main seal leak so it has to come out. I don’t see the point of removing the trans just to fix the seal and accumulator. Especially since it has 128k miles on it. So I decided to purchase a freshly rebuilt one for a good deal. It’s going to the trans shop in a few days.
I want to replace the trans cooler lines as they are pretty rusty, however I am having a hard time sourcing the parts. Any suggestions?
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
So the lines that run along the transmission to the radiator have some pretty elaborate bends. don’t know if it would be possible to hand bend the metal lines, and I don’t know if the rubber ones would work.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,505
Likes: 257
From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
If you can possibly remove both lines completely intact without unbending them in even the slightest way, you can take them to a shop to supply a set and match the factory bends. This way, you would end up with a part that not only functions as intended, but would look as close to factory as possible. Metal is more durable than rubber in my opinion. Even better would be to coat the new lines to inhibit any future rust from developing.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,255
Likes: 1,657
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
On my E-Series with 4R70W & 4R75E there are potions of the cooler lines where rubber hoses are attached to metal lines so you're basically following what the factory does.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
The duty-rated rubber hoses would be the easiest route to and from the radiator & external cooler. I don't believe new lines would have to follow the exact same path as the hard lines.
On my E-Series with 4R70W & 4R75E there are potions of the cooler lines where rubber hoses are attached to metal lines so you're basically following what the factory does.
On my E-Series with 4R70W & 4R75E there are potions of the cooler lines where rubber hoses are attached to metal lines so you're basically following what the factory does.