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what would be the symptoms of egr opening not detected?
P.S. when i changed the fuel filter, i disconnected the inertia shutoff switch, and cranked the engine for 15-20 seconds to depressurize the fuel system, then i also opened up the gas cap on the gas tank. but still when i pulled the fuel line off the filter, gas shot out of that puppy like you wouldnt belive. so it must have some kind of pressure right? from the engine side of the line is where it shot out, there was hardly a trickle on the gas tank side of the line.
First of all, the egr will not work until engine reaches opeating temp.....On second thought, I wonder if this could be your problem. Will your problem occur with a cold engine? If the egr opens (or leaks) you will get a rough idle and a stumble off idle sometimes backfiring. If your egr doesn't open I think the only thing you would get is a ping, however, if it is not opening it may be because of a vacuum leak. You may want to check into that. You can pull the vac line off the valve and see if it has vacuum. Cold engine, at idle there should be none. Warm engine at idle there should be none. Warm engine above 1500 there should be vacuum there. Then hook the hose to the valve and see if it opens. You should be able to reach under it and feel it open. If it don't open or it feels hotter than *** when you do that, replace the valve.
It always starts right when its cold, i dont think i can remember when it did it with a cold engine. It always seems to happen when the engine is warm, and now that i think about it, it seems to fit the symptoms, because it happens when the engine has been warmed up. If i take it on a short distance, like 1/4 of a mile, it doesnt happen. My haynes also says "All engines are equipped with the Differential Pressure Feedback EGR System"
Since I've got the same rig that is being discussed, I can tell you for a fact that the only 94 Rangers with the 4.0L that have an egr system are ones that originated in California. This was determined by inspecting my entire engine and finally confirmed by my Popular Mechanics Maintenanace Manual, CD version.
Just a thought but have you tried replacing the 02 sensors in your truck?? My '94 4.0 was giving me problems after warmup (which is a telltale sign of bad 02's) and codes galore. I replaced both sensors and everything went away. Even if that isnt your problem, you really should replace 02's every 60k or so anyway. I spent ~$50 a piece for the sensors at advanced auto. Your truck requires 1 of them.
ok, thanks. does anybody know anything about the bosch o2 sensors? I remember seeing an add for them, was wondering if theyre any good? I would guess that my o2 sensors never had been replaced since the day it was made, so it might be a good thing to do. Also thanks for the heads up on the EGR.
Bosch is fine. Thats the brand I got at the autoparts store for my truck. I think any brand will do just dandy, tho I am a little skeptical about the unheated universal sensors they sell that are sans the OEM connectors.
I suppose it might have been, i just bought a code reader, so i'll try that once it stops raining out......It has done it alot more now too.....It seems like only 1 of the cylenders will fire, then 2 then 3 then 4, then they all just pick up.
Originally posted by Ken00 I have always heard that Bosch O2s are slow.
A mechanic was telling me to only buy a Ford part for an O2 sensor. Take it off your truck then get the number off of it and go to the dealership. Get the exact one. If you get a "universal" one then it may not work properly. Good luck!
THanks for the info on the bosch o2's. It was flashing 111 111 1 111 111. so everythings all clear. just pass codes, on koeo, and koer. i'll probably put some in soon i would think
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