Rusty MI F250 frame, worth coating? (Pics attached)
#17
I’ll clean it as good as I can, get some rust converter/inhibitor on it, then top coat with one of the recommended products. For being scaly, it really does feel pretty solid with nothing rusted through. For well under $1k (maybe under $500) I can give one heck of an effort, before I sell and try to find something else.
Thanks for all the opinions and suggestions!!!
Thanks for all the opinions and suggestions!!!
#18
#19
I used a HF needle scaler on one that was worse than that. Came out ok and will replace my old Chevy as a plow truck.
pull the front tow hooks and bumper to clean out the box section frame rails over the front axle, and get a gallon of Fluid Film and a sprayer. You’ll need it.
remove the bed. You will probably decide to scrap it and get a takeoff or flatbed. Replace the brake lines and gas tank straps. They go before the frame. Rear shocks and brakes are easy while the bed is off.
check out the outer cab supports while you’re down there. And be prepared to do cab corners and inner and outer rockers, along with doors.
Mine is a 5.4 with 70k miles, pretty low for a 2003. I should get a few winters out of it.
pull the front tow hooks and bumper to clean out the box section frame rails over the front axle, and get a gallon of Fluid Film and a sprayer. You’ll need it.
remove the bed. You will probably decide to scrap it and get a takeoff or flatbed. Replace the brake lines and gas tank straps. They go before the frame. Rear shocks and brakes are easy while the bed is off.
check out the outer cab supports while you’re down there. And be prepared to do cab corners and inner and outer rockers, along with doors.
Mine is a 5.4 with 70k miles, pretty low for a 2003. I should get a few winters out of it.
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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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10-20-2012 07:26 AM