When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
After troubleshooting a CEL and no power on my 1995 F-350 for a couple of weeks, I solved those problems with: lots on reading on various threads here (thanks for all of the good posts), new valve cover gaskets (with new pigtails soldered in), and new o-rings on the IPR.
Primary problem was glow plug wire shorted to #4 injector wire in burned valve cover connector. Tin nut on IPR had backed off so I went ahead and put new o-rings in it while I was “fixing things.”
Based on suggestions on this forum I decided to go ahead and replace the glow plugs and injector o-rings while the valve covers are off.
Once I got the injectors out, the o-rings I got don’t seem to match. My questions are:
Are these OEM injectors? All 8 have the same 181617C3 number. 7 out of 8 have near sequential numbers for the lower number. 7 out of 8 have the same numbers on the side. 1 has UU for the first two letters on the second line. The replacement o-rings are from NAPA (part # 735-6891) and seem to be significantly different than the originals.
Can anyone tell me if these are the correct o-rings for my application and if so, what is the proper sequencing. My primary concern is with the 3 sandwiched in the groove closest to the solenoid.
Some times NAPA sells name brand items under their brand. If that's the case, the packaging should say something like "made by Alliant for NAPA". If not, I'd return them and get these... https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/allia...ector-o-rings/
IMO pull them anyway. Once injectors are installed, crank engine with GPs out. This will purge oil and fuel from cylinders quick and easy without a hydrolock risk!
Also, if you drained the HPO rail via that tiny allen screw in the head, keep it cranking till oil oozes out. You will be pretty much primed and ready to start.
diesel cranks over fast and that oil is not going out the GP hole fast and you risk breaking something if it is full of oil
1 minute can save you thousands of dollars in repairs
turn over engine 2 revolutions via a socket and breaker bar with GPs out before cranking with starter
Also put VC on loose ( maybe 2 bolts part threaded in) unless you like the engine area squirted with it cylinder contents
Good points - I have turned the engine over several times by hand already but will repeat before turning over with the battery. And, yes I will put the valve cover gaskets on with a couple bolts to contain the mass. I should be getting back to this project Friday night or Saturday morning.
Good points - I have turned the engine over several times by hand already but will repeat before turning over with the battery. And, yes I will put the valve cover gaskets on with a couple bolts to contain the mass. I should be getting back to this project Friday night or Saturday morning.
After following RiffRaff diesel’s instructions combined with tips provided here, the injector o-ring job is complete and my truck is up and running again. Thanks for all of the feedback. It took about six, thirty second cranks to get it started and it still cranks about twice as long to start as it used to but I expect that will improve when I get the air purged out of the system. I’ll put some miles on it tomorrow and see what that does for it.
