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ok on the facet pumps how about the block type pumps vs the duralifts? it would mount right in place of where i have the current pump without very much if any modification. or should u just spend the extra money and get the duralift? they both show the same specs other than the amount of lift which i shouldnt need on the frame rail. 40185 compares to the 40222 duralift. $58 vs $103
i bench tested the pump i have now and its only putting out 18 gph vs the 28 its rated for. so its not going to keep up either way, i unhooked the hose coming out of the pump to do this test and didnt notice no air (might not can tell it with no resistance on it) either way this pump isnt going to cut it. im gonna go ahead and order one of the 2 facets and go from there, was just wondering of the block style was just as good other than the lifting power?. all of the fuel line looks in good condition unless the sender has holes in it. but im gonna put a decent pump before i drop the tank to inspect that.
never had any issues with Replacement Carter Fuel pumps... and I stay out of the Zone
Loosing Prime is a sure sign of leaks and possibly bad check valves, those Schrader valves on the filter housing are a good source for leaks too, IF they don't have a cap I install a metal one with a seal in it, the "Olive Seals" are prone to leaks too.
I went with a 7-9 psi facet duralift pump and never looked back. I have a fuel pressure gauge at the inlet of my IP, and I never dip below 5psi even on a steep grade. I think your e-pump was just too weak. Next time, get a good facet duralift e-pump.
The reason the duralift is eons ahead of most electric pumps is there made to suck. Other pumps need to be super close to the tank as there mainly made to make pressure.
Someone here has had one over twenty years. there used on reefer units so I imagine they'd have to be reliable.
I run the stock mechanical and with no fuel supply air leaks it works fine
another issue with the cheap pmps is thay are not designed to move fuel at any "lift"
the duralift pump was designed for refrigerated trailers, and to lift fuel 12 foot straight up.
I've owned my 7.3 idi (1991 F350) for 15+ years. I prime the fuel if the truck has been sitting for 8 or more hours because I haven't taken the time it would require to chase down and repair all possible air intrusion points in the system. I found that installing the electric pump in a way to completely bypass the mechanical pump has never failed me. I cut into the fuel feed line a few inches before the mechanical pump, tee-d off to the electric pump, then tee-d back into the fuel feed line a few inches after the mechanical pump. The mechanical pump died some years ago, and I flipped on the electric pump to drive on home with no problems.
Also, I fought water separator leaks off and on for years until I changed to the WIX filter with the built in separator. That is worth twice the cost of the filter since they don't leak. The "Water in Fuel" light has only come on 2 ~ 3 times since I've owned the truck. I pour a quart on 70% Isopropyl Alcohol in each tank at fill ups once in late fall. Best water dissipation fluid around.
A few years ago, I installed a primer pump on the frame rail of my dad's truck. That turned out to be basically useless since that installation method requires the electric pump to push fuel through the mechanical pump - ineffective at best.
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