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Turns on ok and runs for about 5 minutes then cool air fades out and stays gone until system is turned off for about 5 minutes. Then it will come on and provide cool air for another 5 minutes Lo side pressure looks good at about 47. Air gap on compressor measures about 35mils. No defrost leakage when 4 wd is engaged.
47psi on lo side seems a little high. That is idle I presume? Check hi side to see if it is excessively high. When cold air goes away, has the AC clutch disengaged?
My truck had weak or no ac and and it turned out to be the senser on high side that controls clutch. The wires that run into it were broken from being crushed while working on motor.
shawn
Thanks guys. I have been planning to pull over and check if compressor is running next time it cuts out but so far it hasn't been "convenient" to do and so it always been "i'll do it l;ater"
What should highside pressure be in case I need to check that.
That happened to mine. Took it to a guy who knew what to do. He pulled a shim out of the clutch on the compressor, problem solved. The man who did it was the owner of a reputable ac shop in Mobile, Al. He said he sees this allot.
47 is pretty high, what is ambient temp? And what is the high side? Figure out if the clutch is cycling.
My bet is low charge, but you need more info and a proper evac to confirm that.
He pulled a shim out of the clutch on the compressor, problem solved.
That is a clutch air gap issue. That situation assumes refrigerant pressures are okay. One should always check refrigerant pressures first whwn troubleshooting AC issues.
If refrigerant pressures are indeed okay, one way to test if the air gap is marginal is to tap on the front of the clutch while the AC is running and see if the clutch engages. If it does engage after a tap, then removing that shim should fix it. If not, then the clutch solenoid is probably bad.
Hmmm Thats what i had on mine so I left it. Figured taking the last one out would be too close. Wound up just doing a little cleaning on mine to get it to work again.