good. i would power the switch through the key though, so it can not accidently be turned on with the truck off.
only run glow plugs for 10 seconds and see if it starts easily. than adjust time from there. but 10 seconds is about normal for the old style controller. 15 seconds for the new style controller.

 

10 seconds is what I do, this thing has some real ***** wiring job done to it, my starter is also connected to a switch (still needs key to actually start though) I was hoping to replace it with a spring loaded switch so I don't have to worry about leaving it on

 

If starter is on its own switch, my bet is the ignition actuator broke and someone was not smart enough to diagnose it so the put the extra switch in to butcher it up a little more.

 

At least it does need the key to start. I wouldn't say this thing was especially taken care of by the previous owner, I found a shop towel in the transmission filter :|

 

that must be one of them thar rednek filters. change the shop rag every 20,000 miles and call it good.

 

The actual filter was fine 🤣 he also nabbed the VRV and plugged the hose with a stick 💀 (somehow bent the modulator in the process) and don't get me started on his exhaust job

 

Your 84 is like my 86 as far as to the GP Controller.
My Controller was not working, and from what I read, they can break/snap
off trying to unscrew them. Think Aluminum screwed into a iron head =
corrosion. I tried to remove 3 off various 6.9`s in PNP. 3 broke off, and one
unscrewed. If they break off you have another problem digging out the part
in the Head, = you are down for a while.

Also was nervous attempting to remove the Gp`s after reading after market
one`s end`s swell and get stuck, break off etc... Finally when I did remove them,
they were AC or Auto lites, just sooty on the ends. proof the Controller was kaput.

Installed Motorcraft ZD-1, a momentary Toggle switch. Run one wire to the GP Relay
on the pass fender. remove the Purple wire, and connect your new wire there.
other side of the Toggle, run that wire to a 12V Positive that is only on when the key
is on.
When key or ignition is turned off, the Toggle Switch has no power.

Turn on Ignition, hold Toggle 5 - 10 sec depending on temperature. Winter time more,
and summer time less time.
This set up is good when really cold in the winter. We had some nights down to 8deg,
and maybe more before I got up.
held Toggle 10 sec, cranked on the engine, hit GP another 8 - 10 sec while still cranking,
one or two cyl started coming to life, hit another 6 sec, still cranking till she came to life,
till she ran on her own. Banging and kicking, maybe hit the plugs as a after glow another
6 - 8 sec to smoother her out.

Only had to do that a couple times this winter, generally she comes to life after 10 sec glow.
But with the Controller can`t do that.
This morning was 13deg, one 10 sec glow and she came to life, and another after Glow.

One problem with a manual set up, is if other people drive your truck, they don`t know
5 or 10 sec from 5 or 10 minutes. and can burn out some or all your Gp`s.
Plus side is in the warm weather, or once the engine is warmed up, the GP`s are not needed.

The picture you posted of your GP Relay, I would remove the wires, and clean up the
connections so you have good electrical connection. Just did this on mine, and smeered on
Dialectrical grease and bolted them down.

The Ignition Switch is down on the Steering Column. Remove 2 bolts under the Column,
and lower it so the steering wheel is on the seat.
2 screws hold the switch to the column, and a steel rod connects to it from higher up by
the key switch. A new switch is around $13.

Be sure to disconnect your neg battery cables first. Both batteries.

Blue shop towels...we had an International flat bed truck with side boards at work. This was
back in the 80`s. Had a gas engine. Been sitting in the yard for a while, and one morning
we needed it. Cranked and cranked, gave her some ether...nothing.
Just happened to notice something blue down the intake snorkle to the Air Filter. removed the
lid, and the Mice had a nice cozy home inside the Air Filter.

Charlie

 

​​​​​​I didn't know that about the timer, I think it's in 2 minute interval's, my controller is connected to a switch, so I just do the 10 seconds necessary, it would be kinda nice to have the key=starter, as well as clean up some of the wiring job done, I'll look into that switch you're talking about 👍 the little wire on the right side of the relay is connected to the switch

 

my bet is the ignition switch is fine. when you turn the key to start position and let it go, does it spring back to run, or stay in start position? if it stays there, the problem is the actuator, not the switch.

 

It does spring back when I twist it all the way, the steering wheel also locks when the key is not there, and you can't take the key out when it's in gear

 

Interesting. I Wonder why he put the switch in than?
Unless the switch is out of adjustment and he was to stupid too figure out how to make it work

 

Beats me, I also don't know why he ripped out the radio, punched a hole in the dash, and somehow, all the passenger side bed bolts are missing, so it's hopping on a bumpy road.