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I'm finally ready to pull the engine out of the truck. When I positioned the engine hoist, there isn't enough room to even get the slack out of the chain. So the 2 options I'm looking at are;
a) Raise the cab up
b) Take off the heads, HPOP resevoir, fuel bowl, and anything else in the valley that's in the way.
My other concern is, they way it comes out, is the way it's going back in!
The heads are coming off anyways, but I figured it would have been easier to put all of that back on before putting the replacement engine in. So I'm looking to see what others have found to be simpler and/or easier.
The equipment I have at my disposal are an engine hoist, small floor jack that takes several blocks of wood to reach anything on my truck, and a bottle jack that also takes a few blocks of wood to lift the axle high enough to remove a tire. Oh yea, I also have several blocks of wood....
I'd find another engine hoist before I did all that. That stuff didn't have to come off to remove the last engine I pulled, do you have the front end off the truck?
I have the 2 ton cherry picker hoist from harbor freight. Everything is off the front, the bumper, grill, the plastic piece that holds the head lights, A/C evaporator, trans cooler, intercooler, radiator, powersteering fluid cooler. I also have the fan, alternator bracket, and A/C compressor bracket removed from the engine.
I used the exact same hoist. You need to raise the cab. It is physically impossible to raise the engine high enough to get the oil pan over the crossmember without raising the cab. Raising the cab is less work than taking all that other stuff off the top of the engine too.
I don't know...this is the first I've heard this, particularly with the turbo off. I used a loader arm with the bucket off and it came out. I do recall tugging a bit though. Hood was on and cab not lifted any.
What about using more chain and getting the hoist boom higher than the cowl?
When I saw the picture, that was the first thing I thought of as well... shift the hook point closer to the front of the engine to get the boom out from under the cowl, and also longer chain so the boom can get above the cowl.
I readily admit that I've never done it before, so I may be seeing things from way out in left field.
shorten the chain and ditch the factory lift bracket
replace the hook on your crane with use a chain grab hook like pictured. then ditch the tall factory lift bracket and use chain plates like pictured. you can get the chain much shorter.
as noted getting the pan over the cross member is a bit of a hurdle without lifting the cab…. getting the chain as short as possible gives you the most room.
I used the exact same hoist. You need to raise the cab. It is physically impossible to raise the engine high enough to get the oil pan over the crossmember without raising the cab. Raising the cab is less work than taking all that other stuff off the top of the engine too.
That's what I was leaning towards, but I figured I would seek info from those who have pulled this engine before. I'm going to take a fresh look at it in the morning. Walleye Hunter said he's done it without lifting the cab so it's worth further investigating.
Originally Posted by SRBF150
What about using more chain and getting the hoist boom higher than the cowl?
Maybe. When I first looked at how I was going to hook it up, the center point between the 2 lifting eyes is under the cowl. Tomorrow I'll try and set it up that way and see how it looks.
Originally Posted by pirate4x4_camo
shorten the chain and ditch the factory lift bracket
replace the hook on your crane with use a chain grab hook like pictured. then ditch the tall factory lift bracket and use chain plates like pictured. you can get the chain much shorter.
as noted getting the pan over the cross member is a bit of a hurdle without lifting the cab…. getting the chain as short as possible gives you the most room.
I have the hook just sticking off the end of the hoist, that isn't getting any shorter. The chain on the engine I may be able to pull another link or 2 out, but still not enough to fix my problem. I do like the chain grab hooks better. I know I can get that from TSC, but where can I find the chain plates?
That's what I was leaning towards, but I figured I would seek info from those who have pulled this engine before. I'm going to take a fresh look at it in the morning. Walleye Hunter said he's done it without lifting the cab so it's worth further investigating.
Okay. Lifting the cab is pretty easy though. Just undo the front and middle cab mounts, then use the engine hoist to lift on that bar that runs across and under where the intercoler normally sits. Then stick a couple of short 2x6 pieces between the cab and the frame close to where the front cab mounts are.
What about using more chain and getting the hoist boom higher than the cowl?
This is the approach I ended up going with. The oil pan cleared the cross member, but only barely. But when I put the engine back in with the turbo on, I think I am going to raise the cab a little to give myself a little more room. Things always seem to be a lot easier when you come back well rested!
Is the reason you cant pull the engine without jacking the cab some while using the cherry picker because the arm gets into the cowl? When i pulled my engine i never touched the cab and cleared the crossmember just fine. Granted i used a fork lift and had the chain basically straight from lift eye to eye.
When I set everything up the first time, it appeared I would not be able position the arm over the cowl without the chain possibly damaging the cowl, so I tried to get it under the cowl. I've swapped many engines in a variety of types of equipment, but never pulled an engine from a passenger vehicle. So I turned to those with experience in pulling this engine from this vehicle.
I did have to move the plastic piece that covers the section of wiring harness that runs across the cowl, but I was able to position the arm over the cowl and the engine came out fairly easy. Now the turbo was also removed when I pulled the engine which did give me more clearance. But I would rather install the turbo with the engine out, and I can see the turbo making it more difficult to clear the oil pan over the cross member when I put the engine back in.
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