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I recently had the C6 in my '67 F100 (PO did a swap) totally rebuilt as it did not have a 2nd gear. The builder told me that the transmission was destroyed by coolant. He said lots of rust inside the case and the band was destroyed. He also said that he found a aftermarket transmission cooler mounted sideways underneath the radiator but that it wasnt hooked up. He also said that the coolant was bright green and looked super new. So.. his guess was that the PO realized the issue after a while, installed the secondary cooler and bypassed the radiator one, changed the transmission fluid and drove it for a while. At some point may have fixed the radiator and thats why the tranmission lines back up to the radiator cooler and the coolant looks new. BUT with all this being said he was not wanting to hook up to the radiator cooler without knowing for sure that there are no leaks. So he hooked it up to the secondary cooler.
OK.. enough with the long story...
Is there a simple way to test the internal cooler (inside the radiator) for leaks? The aftermarket cooler is mounted sideways and gets zero air flow. Plus its just extra crap in the way.
Could you move the aftermarket cooler in front of the radiator? But yes you can blow air, USE LOW PRESSURE!!!!. into one of the transmission fittings on the rad. and cover the other with a finger. Does it hold pressure? I would use the aftermarket cooler because the rad coolers can leak, and they don't cool as well (they are always kept hot from the coolant). But just my 2 cents. Let us know how it goes.
You could see if you have coolant leaking out of the radiator trans cooler. Pressure test the radiator. I think the aftermarket trans cooler is a better idea. Just make sure its in front of the radiator.
If you plan on higher speeds, higher RPM's , or towing get a larger one. "Size does matter". Also a "Plate and Fin" type will cool better than just a "tube and fin" type.
This is a thought for the cold-climate people: That transmission line goes through the bottom of the radiator to warm the transmission fluid. You want it 'hot enough' , but not overheated.
Arizona, you need not comment on this point... Ha!
There are several thermostatic valves on the market which will run the fluid through the cooler when it is hot, and bypasss the cooler when the fluid is warm enough to work, but not “hot”.
I think that, Hayden, and Derale both make kits which include the cooler, and thermostat. At least they used to. I haven’t been in the market for a while, so I’m not certain.
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