Just had my '97 4x4 with off-road package in for the MA state inspection and they failed me because of bad ball joints... *******s! I will be doing the repair myself and am looking for pointers: Should I get only OEM parts? How hard are the old joints to get out? Need a press? Can I safely release the torsion springs? Any other parts I should do since I'll have the truck torn apart? I've had the annoying Pittman arm squeek since day one, is it hard to swap out?

Thanks!

 

Wow,do they inspect every vehicle in your state this way or just 4x4s?

 

My truck was squeaking really bad when I turned the wheel at park so I got a needle grease fitting and put on my gun then I greased every boot under the truck. No more squeaks.
I had to make a small hole to do this but it worked and when I was done I cleaned the boots and then smeared some silicone on the hole to seal it and it worked perfectly.

 

Take a look at this thread... https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...B%25252Bjoints
I searched but cant find where I posted instructions for replacing ball joints but I can maybe type it all out again. You will need a ball joint press which can sometimes be rented or borrowed from a parts store. Or ball joint drivers but those will probably be harder to find.

 

I would use MOOG parts. Especially if you are doing upper and lowers. OE uppers require you to replace the entire control arm. MOOG makes a replacement control arm with a replaceable ball joint. They also include a grease fitting, because lifetime lubricated joints means a short lifetime!

You should use a jack under the lower control arm, it is not neccesary to release the torsion bars. The shocks can hold the lower control arm, but I do not trust it. Also you may need to adjust the tension on the control arm to reassemble the parts. Always use jackstands to support the vehicle frame.

 

Thanks for the help again fellas...

BlueOval, yes, every vehicle, every year.
Aldridgec, Replace the whole upper control arm! Darn!
Dave, thanks as always.

 

OK, I've got the parts and a loaner Ball Joint puller... Going to dive into the job in the morning. Thanks for the tips! The new parts came with torque specs for the various fasteners, are these numbers reliable? Anyone know where I can find the Ford specs? I went with the Moog parts, should be fun!

 

Front Axle Hub Nut 188-254 lb.ft
Front Suspension Lower Ball Joint Castellated Nut 83-112 lb.ft
Front Suspension Upper Arm Ball Joint Castellated Nut 57-75 lb.ft
Tie Rod End Castellated Nut 57-75 lb.ft

Let us know how it goes

 

Thanks Dave! :-)

 

Well, after about 5 hours I've made a little progress... The uppers are a snap, the lowers suck.

Things I have learned: The half shafts have to go. Replace the shocks while you are in there. The torsion bars are easily released of tension but corrosion welds them into the lower control arms and anchor bracket. Keep a BFH handy. The coolant I've been losing has left through the block heater. The lowers are best pressed in by someone with a *real* press, the sissy set the parts guy lends out just won't do the job. Rust never, ever sleeps. :-)


Couple questions so I can finish the job: There is some kind of thread locker on the axle flange/ front diff. bolts, what should I use for reassembly? I'm replacing the front hub seals because of corrosion/damage, would it be worthwhile to replace the bearings while I've got the truck stripped down? My torsion bars look crappy because the "coating" they put on is peeling off in big chunks and the bars rust, anyone ever powdercoat theirs? What does this cost?


Thanks Guys!

 

Did you get it all finished yet?
Normally there is still enough thread locker on the axle bolts that you dont have to add more.
Can you get the hub seals seperately?
Unless the bearings are loose or rough feeling I wouldn't replace them as they are big bucks.
I always just tie the front axle up out of the way, usually to the sway bar.
Did you remove the whole lower control arm? That's not a fun job and usually you dont have to. I guess that might be kinda late now eh?

 

Nope, not done yet... Rained like mad here today. Luckily I drive a company truck to work and I have my backup car to run for parts in. :-) OK on the axle bolts, that yellow stuff really had them glued in there! I'm going to try for the seals alone tomorrow, the drivers side had a ring of rubber worn right off it. I'll hold off on the bearings if they are that spendy, they feel fine, just not planning to *ever* get this deep into the front end again and wondered if they were worth replacing. On the axel I couldn't get the lower control arm to clear the drive hub without taking off the large axel nut and pulling the axel clear of the hub, with that done it seemed logical to just get it *way* out of the way! :-) I did end up removing the lower control arm, tried to press out the lower ball joint but it was way corroded and wouldn't budge... It was *not* fun, after 70k mi. in the Minnesota salt everything on the trucks front end is welded together with rust! I took the BFH to the lower ball joint and the torsion bar/ control arm and got them separated, I'll take both arms to a shop and have the new ball joints pressed in rather than try and get it done in the driveway, I'm way out-gunned.

For anyone else thinking about this, it's about a 7 out of 10 on the difficulty scale for me... and I've got all the needed tools, etc. Big job due to the rust!

I'll check back in once I'm finished!

 

It doesn't sound like you're having much fun there.
Just think how good it will feel when it's done though
Rust and mud can really make some jobs ugly.
Better you than me
Oh wait...I'll probably do some of these this coming week too.
Never mind

 

LOL, The local shop only wanted $390 to do all 4... I'd have taken him up on it except he had a real attitude! As a rule I do all my own non-warranty work anyway, yes it *will* feel good to have this (small) job behind me! :-)

 

Hey petty fan


If youre f-150 is anything like everyone else's out there, you'll probably be putting on lower ball joints on every two years or so. Don't worry, you'll get better with practice. I'm under an hour now start to finish to do both lowers. Have a ball.



Dube