Need help please
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Need help please
Looking to put air conditioning in my 82 f-150 XL. The truck came with a/c from the factory. I don’t know where to start when buying parts to replace/hook every thing back up.
Need a parts list to make a full first functioning system. Any help would be appreciated.
Need a parts list to make a full first functioning system. Any help would be appreciated.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 3,976
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From: Edmond, OK
I put this stuff in the AC of my 86 f250 a few years ago and it worked good for a season:
The AC doesn't blow cool anymore though, I think it's since leaked out.
The AC doesn't blow cool anymore though, I think it's since leaked out.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,935
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From: Angier, NC
I put this stuff in the AC of my 86 f250 a few years ago and it worked good for a season:
https://www.amazon.com/Cans-REDTEK-R...s%2C149&sr=8-3
The AC doesn't blow cool anymore though, I think it's since leaked out.
https://www.amazon.com/Cans-REDTEK-R...s%2C149&sr=8-3
The AC doesn't blow cool anymore though, I think it's since leaked out.
He would also need to pull a vacuum once he has it back together to make sure he has no leaks then charge as needed.
Also what motor? So no compressor or brackets, condenser, hoses?
Dave ----
Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2019
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I just got the A/C going in my 1986 F-350. These are all the parts of the A/C system:
Compressor
Drier
Evaporator (still there if drier is there)
Orifice tube
Condenser
Lines from A/C Compressor to Drier
Lines from Drier to condenser
Line from condenser to A/C compressor
A/C low pressure switch (on drier)
Switch in cab for A/C (gives power to switch which then kicks on compressor)
Compressor
Drier
Evaporator (still there if drier is there)
Orifice tube
Condenser
Lines from A/C Compressor to Drier
Lines from Drier to condenser
Line from condenser to A/C compressor
A/C low pressure switch (on drier)
Switch in cab for A/C (gives power to switch which then kicks on compressor)
Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 103
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If i had to bet I'd say the condenser is still there, the evaporator and the A/C switch in the cab/low pressure switch.
If you do end up using any of your old stuff that's on there, flush it out with brake cleaner and then blow pressurized air through it. Do this until the brake cleaner comes out clean the hook everything up and put a vacuum on it, then charge. Replace all O-Rings along the way.
If you do end up using any of your old stuff that's on there, flush it out with brake cleaner and then blow pressurized air through it. Do this until the brake cleaner comes out clean the hook everything up and put a vacuum on it, then charge. Replace all O-Rings along the way.
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Moderator
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From: Virginia
https://www.rockauto.com/en/cart/
These are all the parts I’m ordering in a week or so
These are all the parts I’m ordering in a week or so
Do you have the brackets to mount the compressor? I am assuming the empty spots are still there for the v-belt that runs it on all the pulleys.
You also need to hunt around for the wiring plug that goes to the compressor clutch. It's probably laying to the side somewhere.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 3,976
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From: Edmond, OK
Here is a list (from my book of many things) that I made to retrofit the AC on my 86 f250. As I said, I have all the parts. It's just not blowing cold anymore.
TA350 vacuum pump HVAC kit:
Robinair 10102 can tap:
Johnsen's 6545-6 AC flush:
Goplus AC system flush kit:
Murray 59000 Mineral Oil
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b...ay+59000&pos=0\
4 Seasons 38621 Orifice Tube:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...fice+tube,6936
4 Seasons 33189 Drier/Accumulator:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...cumulator,6972
4 Seasons 55882 Liquid Hose, 55880 Low P hose and 55696 Hi P hose:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...rant+hose,6900
4 Seasons 26721 O-ring kit:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ket+kits,13290
Whenever I do this retrofit I will probably use the Redtek I linked above. It seemed to cool well in my system with old parts, I'm sure it will do much better with a refresh. FWIW, I retrofitted the AC on a 90 Buick Estate Wagon from R12 to R134a years ago and it didn't do a good job cooling. Also, I'm not sure if the above parts are the same for your 82, but it gives you an idea of what's needed. Let me know if I forgot anything gents.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 103
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Nope, didn't have to at all. Used all stock stuff and it works well.
All I did was flush out everything with brake cleaner, blow it out with compressed air, hook everything up, put the vacuum on it and charge it.
The only thing I replaced was the drier and the orifice as you should do that anyway on 30 year old A/C systems.
All I did was flush out everything with brake cleaner, blow it out with compressed air, hook everything up, put the vacuum on it and charge it.
The only thing I replaced was the drier and the orifice as you should do that anyway on 30 year old A/C systems.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,935
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From: Angier, NC
I am getting parts little at a time to get my 81 F100 AC system in working order but the truck is not on the road so I am not in that big a rush so when something turns up I get it.
I had to replace the condenser because of damage and all you can get it the larger 134a. It takes a little moding to make it fit but it's not bad. I also have the compressor brackets now.
Still need the compressor with manifolds that don't come with a remanf. one, all hoses.
Then you have the normal "should replace parts" like the drier & orifice and because you are going from R12 to 134A it uses a different psi switch.
Also part of my issue is I am going with a later compressor so my old hoses will not work. Because of that I may try making my own hoses but still out on that.
Dave ----
edit: I was going to say why some have issues with not good cooling after a 134A change.
What I have seen posted is people charge the system like it was still filled with R12 and this is wrong.
You need to look at how a 134A system is charged, I have seen it is charged by weight not psi.
So if you are using them little cans how do you know the weight of the charge you put in?
just my .02
I had to replace the condenser because of damage and all you can get it the larger 134a. It takes a little moding to make it fit but it's not bad. I also have the compressor brackets now.
Still need the compressor with manifolds that don't come with a remanf. one, all hoses.
Then you have the normal "should replace parts" like the drier & orifice and because you are going from R12 to 134A it uses a different psi switch.
Also part of my issue is I am going with a later compressor so my old hoses will not work. Because of that I may try making my own hoses but still out on that.
Dave ----
edit: I was going to say why some have issues with not good cooling after a 134A change.
What I have seen posted is people charge the system like it was still filled with R12 and this is wrong.
You need to look at how a 134A system is charged, I have seen it is charged by weight not psi.
So if you are using them little cans how do you know the weight of the charge you put in?
just my .02
Moderator
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From: Virginia
Each small can is 12 oz. I have worked on many car and truck A/C systems, and am now working on home and commercial HVAC. So far in my experience, so long as you are in the ballpark with the charge it will work.
If you notice, most cars and trucks will work, even if they are a little low on charge. If you put the exact amount of charge required, and you have a small leak, it will keep working, only as the charge gets lower and lower, it will get to the point where you "know" that it is getting low because it's not as cold. There is a long span of operation in there where it is still working, even though the leak is slowly lowering the charge.
The same with over charging. You can get a little too much in there, and it will still work. If you get way too much in there, the high pressure pop off with go off on the compressor, or the belt will slip and start squealing that drives the compressor. Let a little bit out and then continue on.
If you notice, most cars and trucks will work, even if they are a little low on charge. If you put the exact amount of charge required, and you have a small leak, it will keep working, only as the charge gets lower and lower, it will get to the point where you "know" that it is getting low because it's not as cold. There is a long span of operation in there where it is still working, even though the leak is slowly lowering the charge.
The same with over charging. You can get a little too much in there, and it will still work. If you get way too much in there, the high pressure pop off with go off on the compressor, or the belt will slip and start squealing that drives the compressor. Let a little bit out and then continue on.
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