I have a 1985 f250 super cab 4x4 with a c6 trans and the us gears add on Thinking about putting in a fresh reman motor with reman injection pump and new injectors I was wondering if someone could tell me what mpg I could expect also debating on a banks turbo would like feedback on that as well thank you

 

A reman with new IP and injectors? Hard to say. Maybe a 20% improvement on MPG, all things equal. The hard part is, nothing is apples to apples. That old engine might have bad timing, clogged fuel filter, inadequate fuel pressure, and other factors contributing to excessive fuel consumption.

That turbo isn't going to help you on the MPG much, or at all. I write about the MPG give-and-take for a turbo install here: The Great Big List of Eco-mods for 6.9 and 7.3 IDI Vehicles ? IDI Online

 

Thank you for the information I'll definitely be thinking about this while I read the article

 

Is there anything wrong with the motor that you want to do all this work to it?

 

Leaks oil, flexplate got tore up by an AutoZone starter if I gotta pull the motor figured I'll do an overhaul

 

I'd recommend a compression test before you over haul the engine. I thought mine was slap wore out and got the cheepo kit from harbor plastic for thirty bucks. I had to grind down the m10x1.0 adapter as it was too long after the threads but it actually works great.

The bad reviews is because the gauge is cheap. Name brand 500psi gauges can be had for next to nothing on eBay (second hand of course) and you have just as good of a kit as anything else.

None of the fittings or quick connects leaked for me, which is surprising because there air fittings are pure junk..

The biggest factor for fuel mileage other than the fuel system and timing is how you drive.

I have 3.55 gears, 33" tall tires and a 4 speed (no od) and if i keep it 55-60 I can squeeze 18 out of it, I get roughly 15@70
My truck also weights 8150# with me in it and half a tank of fuel, it has a hair of cali lean because I leveled it before I loaded it down with all my tools and such. I'm also running a used pump/injectors and it hazes from time to time so maybe more is achievable with a new fuel system, which wouldn't be a bad move if your compression numbers come back good or even great. I had a couple lower cylinders but quite a few higher readings. Which really surprised me. Everything was within spec

The trick with the oil leaks is to spray it with degreaser several times with washings in between and they show themselves pretty quick. A common spot for 6.9's is the rear lower corner of the head gasket. It's pretty noticeable if you crawl under the truck behind the front tire and shine a light up.

If compression numbers are good you could just pull and reseal all the gaskets too. Oil pressure if you have a manual gauge is a good sign of bottom end condition and compression will tell you top end.

Test it hot too, mine were way higher hot than cold and most of the engines time is spent up to temp. I never understood the point of testing them cold, as long as they start they'll warm up.

 

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I bought the HF compression gauge kit and it worked well. At first I bought the Lisle gauge on Amazon but it broke after testing 3 cylinders!

 

I prefer the differential compression tester myself being that I worked on more Arcft engines than car engines, it will tell you a lot more about the engine condition...

Harbor Fright carries one now, and they seem to work fine... mine is an older ETC unit

while HF gauges always leave a bit to be desired, I won't argue the quality but then the MATCO or MAC tools product is no better than the HF product as none can be used on Arcft as they cannot be reliably calibrated.

 

Hey guys sorry I took so long been working on a project I might do a compression test if I have time before winter thank you everyone for your advice and information