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Dumb battery light

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Old Jun 14, 2019 | 05:35 PM
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Dumb battery light

So I just noticed I have the dreaded battery light come on the truck this afternoon... I tested voltage, and batteries are good at 12.7v with key off, and I start the truck, and voltage jumps up to 13.3-13.6. The voltage doesn't appear to change drastically with engine RPM or load, but the battery light does glow brighter with higher RPMs...

I assume it is the alternator as the batteries are Interstate batteries that are maybe a year old, and I have the extra heavy duty battery cables running from the Alternator to batteries.

Is there anything else I can test to verify? I'm pretty sure it's the wimpy 110amp one, so I figured now is a good time to invest in 140 with a pulley...
 
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Old Jun 14, 2019 | 09:40 PM
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If you have a scan tool I'd look at all the voltages and DTCs to see what the PCM thinks the voltage is for everything.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2019 | 10:38 PM
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FICM voltage still showed 48v and battery voltage showed 12.6-13v after I started it. I don't usually trust the scan voltage since it seems to differ so much more than anything else.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2019 | 10:41 PM
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You might want to set your voltmeter to read AC across the positive post and case when its running, you might have a bad diode that causing a ripple.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2019 | 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Pest007
FICM voltage still showed 48v and battery voltage showed 12.6-13v after I started it. I don't usually trust the scan voltage since it seems to differ so much more than anything else.
Scan voltages may differ from your volt meter, but I'm assuming the PCM is setting the light, so it knows what it knows, which is what the scan gage knows. That's why I was suggesting it. Also @TooManyToys idea is good, I'd test that next.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2019 | 10:46 PM
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Thanks Jack, I'll give that a shot.
I have a buddy who has a spare that I might swap out and see if it works... I want to upgrade to a 140amp alternator anyways, but the problem I have is do I order one (bocsh or Denso) or do I get one from Autozone (since it probably would be easier to warranty if any issues come back)
 
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Old Jun 15, 2019 | 06:19 AM
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The light illuminates due to a voltage differential across the bulb, nothing more. DC or AC. PCM not involved.

Heres someone’s quick vid. It can be off the battery too, I just normally have done it off the source. Check both hot or cold, or whenever the light is on.

 
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Old Jun 15, 2019 | 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Pest007
Is there anything else I can test to verify? I'm pretty sure it's the wimpy 110amp one, so I figured now is a good time to invest in 140 with a pulley...
If you do go with a 140amp, ignore all the posts of old that gush over the Bosch AL7606N. They fail regularly and Bosch doesn't list them for our trucks anymore, and so doesn't warranty them if put in an F250 or F350.

Don't ask me how I know.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2019 | 11:48 AM
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Checked with AC and I was getting 55-75 mV so it appears to be a diode problem

Thanks for all the input and quick responses!
 
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Old Jun 15, 2019 | 06:36 PM
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Swapped out the Alternator and all is back to normal... went with 140amp and noticed slightly higher voltages as well, so the old one was probably on it's was out.

Does anyone have a link on amazon or somewhere that I can get the smaller belt pulley for it?
 
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