This sounds intriguing. Could you provide part numbers or links to the red grommet California module and the ford square coil?

 

Module: DY204 PM'd you link because these are getting a bit thin. I still find them for as long as $15 used and $25 new if you know where to look.
Coil: FD-478 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Mazda-...frcectupt=true

Maybe Mr. NumberDummy could provide us with the actual Ford engineering numbers to better locate parts.


Since you already have the large cap/rotor and 8mm plug wires you should be good to go. Pop some iridium plugs gapped to .045 and you'll have a HOT ignition. Of course, you're distributor pick up could be bad, but fortunately that part is the same regardless and relatively cheap.

You are also going to need to replace the coil-to-cap wire with a certain female-female type as the square coil has a male post unlike the old cylinder style. Maybe Mr. Numberdummy could also help determine which year to get that from? I want to say 1985-1996.

 

I found a NOS Motorcraft DU-1A Distributor Ignition Pickup D4PZ-12A112-A on ebay for $20 so I just ordered that. Figured I should jump on it since it was the only genuine Motorcraft one I could find and it was cheaper than the Chinese junk.

 

Good stuff! Hopefully that does the trick. These systems are pretty simple anyhow. A volt meter or test light while some one cranks the engine will tell you all. Next time it dies, measure DC volts between coil positive and ground, coil negative to ground with key "ON" and then with someone cranking the engine in "START"

Check ignition coil for resistance primary to primary should be 1.5 ohm. Pri to sec should be 10k ohm.

Lay a spark plug on intake, exhaust manifold or other solid metal grounded piece and crank. Do you see spark? If not --> Pull center wire off cap and hold it 1/4 inch from ground while cranking. Do you see spark? If not measure, coil for 9V.... You'll soon find out where the problem is.

Check all connectors, grounds, etc for cleanliness and tightness. Inspect cap and rotor for damage, plug condition etc....

Sometimes a wire breaks inside the insulation and intermittently fails when it gets bumped the wrong way... lots of potential causes here. I had a truck that would refuse to start for no rhyme or reason and sometimes die while driving. Turns out the coil connector was damaged and barely contacting... easy fix once I found it.

As discussed earlier, top suspects are 1. pickup 2. module 3. coil and 4. bad wire/ground connection

 

UPDATE:
I received my pickup coil and got it installed last night. The install went well and she fired right up. Took a spin around the block to get the engine warmed up, and it appeared to be running great. As I was pulling back into the shop, the truck died and wouldn't start again... SO, next on my list is the ignition module.
I've been scouring the internet this morning and haven't found any GENUINE motorcraft modules. Do I have no choice but to get one of the Chinese ones? Is my best option to buy 2 of them at the local parts store so I have a spare?

 

Genuine Motorcraft modules are all over ebay and junkyards. Perhaps your local dealer has one on shelf.

 

I am wanting to upgrade my dizzy as well... I really wanna get rid of that duraspark turd off the inner fender

 

he already did.

 

I seen that, My bad... I am pretty sure I am having problems with mine. When I replaced my pickup coil, I used a Motorcraft part and it doesn't feel like its solid, it moves a little bit. I can wiggle it a bit.

 

Well now I'm stumped. I swapped out the ignition control module and now it doesn't even want to start when it's cold. The only way I could get it to fire was if I held the gas pedal to the floor, and then it would only stay running (and not well) if I kept my foot on the gas.

 

Just as I suspected.

1. Check proper operation of choke
2. Adjust carburetor to baseline setting
3. Check for vacuum leaks all over
4. Possible reason is the ant-diesel throttle kicker solenoid, due to emissions, these carbs were set-up in such as way that had the throttle plates completely closed when engine off, requiring power to throttle kicker solenoid to open them to a baseline level. Is your solenoid present and working? --This can also be adjusted.

Overall, when chasing gremlins in 45 year old carbureted vehicle, it is best to have everything tuned-up and in good condition, otherwise you are flying blind. Are plugs, cap, rotor, wire, battery, fuel filter, and carburetor in good shape? -- Sometimes a carb rebuild does wonders.

 

That's interesting, have you put the old one back on? If so, do you have the same results

 

Thanks for the tips! These carbs are a lot more complicated than the small engine carbs I’m used to working on...
I rebuilt the carburator when I got the truck, still couldn’t get it to run so I brought it to a shop to have it rebuilt (a few years ago), then it started fine until now.

I’ve searched for vacuum leaks multiple times before, and while I am willing to bet there is at least one (maybe more), I haven’t found any.

I’m running out of steam with this thing

I didn’t try that yet. It’s a good place to start though.

 

Keep in mind the simple principle: an engine will fire if it is getting 3 things; air, fuel, and spark. You just need simple testing or observation to confirm these without throwing money at speculative guesses.

 

That's an excellent point