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This project started as what seemed to be a clean up of what appeared to be a minor rust issue on the roof of my Ex. It's an area just outboard of the luggage rack at the rear drivers side. If involved the roof ditch where the Exs quarter panels and roof panel are lapped together and spot welded. Seam sealer is then flowed in to keep water and moister out of the lapped and spot welded joint. Bottom line if you see any sign of contamination, rust, breach of that seal you need take action. I had planed to paint my truck and correct some sins of the PO, finding this problem sped things up. The pictures tell the story: Removal of the luggage rack revealed thr extent of the damage. The is after a 1st pass with 80 grit. Second pass with wire wheel opens up more pin holes. The entire area was treated with rust mort to stop futher rusting. from the inside with the headliner pulled down. This was also ground and treated with POR15. POR putty comes with the activator. Spread it on and press in to cover holes. Sand it smooth with 400 grit. Then Finish Glaze and wet sand smooth. From beneath. Once everthing is smooth ready, the next step is to apply a 2 part epoxy primer. Not just primer, it has to be epoxy primer to seal out moisture. You must prepare the entire roof ditch. All the old sealer in the channel must be removed to bare metal and cleaned and prepared with epoxy primer. You pro's out there can mix this stuff and spray it. I used rattle cans from Grainger. The can has a button that you push when you are ready to mix the elements. The factory has robots that flow this stuff on. To make it look factory you need this special gun and "self leveling" seam sealer. You flow it on like a caulk gun. It dry's real fast! Take your time and get right. It mixes like JB weld. I used two of these because I did both side of the Ex. They make a brush on type also that could used. The finished product after painting. For some reason at the very end of the channel Ford left the seam exposed. I flowed a little sealer in. I heard that Explorers have a problem with leaks in the same area. Before After. Maaco's interpretation of Mineral Gray. Color code TK I didn't opt for Color Sand and Buff, I'll let the patina develope naturally. Lots more metallic than Factory. The clear laid down pretty good. I was planning to change the grill, but I think it looks good now after paintting.
What did Maaco charge for the paint work? I recently had them strip a Tacoma roof and repaint the hood. $1000. Base coat/clear coat and had a small dent fixed on the hood.
Thanks, if I had it to do it again I think I would use the brush on type of seam sealer. The flowed in sealer can hide things and by the you see something it's real trouble.
What did Maaco charge for the paint work? I recently had them strip a Tacoma roof and repaint the hood. $1000. Base coat/clear coat and had a small dent fixed on the hood.
$2100 to paint the whole truck. That included painting the drivers door jamb and the rear barn doors and jamb.
$2100 to paint the whole truck. That included painting the drivers door jamb and the rear barn doors and jamb.
What prep work did that include? Mine was repainted poorly at some point, and I will be needing to get it redone at some point. Currently in white, but I really want to change to the coyote tan or whatever Toyota calls that color. I know there is a little rust that needs repaired on the A pillars, but other than that the body is in great shape near as I can tell, other than the flaking paint.
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