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Working on my new 91 F150. 5.0 with a Manual transmission. The first things I did was buy a new battery/cables, replace the starter solenoid, and replace the broken ignition actuator. At this point it was starting fine with a jump, but the battery wouldn't hold a charge. So I pulled the alternator, tested it (it failed) and replaced it.
Now, when I go to start it, I have full lights/dash/power windows but am getting no click or crank. If I bridge the terminals on the starter solenoid, it starts up no problem, which should indicate a bad solenoid, but it is literally 4 days old and was working fine out of the box.
It could also be that the clutch switch failed right? It just seems weird that this problem started immediately after replacing the alternator.
How are you bridging the solenoid? If you bridge the 2 large terminals, which I assume you are doing, you are bypassing the solenoid. If you bridge from the small terminal with the slip on connector to the large terminal with the positive battery cable hooked to it, you are essentially testing the solenoid.
Another thought. If your solenoid tests okay, your ignition switch may not be adjusted right after replacing the ignition actuator. The ignition switch may need to be adjusted closer to the steering wheel.
How are you bridging the solenoid? If you bridge the 2 large terminals, which I assume you are doing, you are bypassing the solenoid. If you bridge from the small terminal with the slip on connector to the large terminal with the positive battery cable hooked to it, you are essentially testing the solenoid.
I was bridging the two large terminals. I will try bridging the slip on connector. In order for that to work I will need somebody cranking the key correct? Because the slip on only gets power when the ignition turns?
Originally Posted by 88n94
Another thought. If your solenoid tests okay, your ignition switch may not be adjusted right after replacing the ignition actuator. The ignition switch may need to be adjusted closer to the steering wheel.
The thought has crossed my mind, but the ignition was working correctly after I replaced the actuator. It is only a problem since I replaced the alternator. So I dont see how that could be the problem, unless it slipped out of adjustment?
I will try bridging the slip on connector. In order for that to work I will need somebody cranking the key correct? Because the slip on only gets power when the ignition turns?
NO absolutely not. The power to operate the solenoid(ultimately the starter) comes through the positive battery cable hooked to the solenoid. You definitely do not need someone to operate the key.
You are correct in that the slip on wire only gets power to it when the key is turned. But if you bridge from the positive battery cable to the bare slip on wire TERMINAL you get power direct from the battery.
I've had this problem too, and I'm still not 100% sure that I've fixed it. I also switched to the mini starter, and I think that helped. Adjusting the starter switch closer to the steering wheel was another thing that seems to help a little. In fact, I must have moved it too close, as now I need to push the release button just to switch the engine off.
It is a frustrating problem, especially when it's intermittent.
NO absolutely not. The power to operate the solenoid(ultimately the starter) comes through the positive battery cable hooked to the solenoid. You definitely do not need someone to operate the key.
You are correct in that the slip on wire only gets power to it when the key is turned. But if you bridge from the positive battery cable to the bare slip on wire TERMINAL you get power direct from the battery.
Ah I see what you are saying now. I have Been messing with it all day. The solenoid was NOT getting voltage, I think because the key cylinder gear/actuator rack are not properly aligned. I found that If you REALLY crank the key forward it goes far enough to engage the starter.
However, the key is clearly not in the right position, because the key in the "lock" position is actually providing Accessory to the truck. And I am unable to turn the key back to the actual Accesory position. I spent hours looking at it, and I only see one way that the gear/rack teeth will properly engage, so I am at a loss
Ah I see what you are saying now. I have Been messing with it all day. The solenoid was NOT getting voltage, I think because the key cylinder gear/actuator rack are not properly aligned. I found that If you REALLY crank the key forward it goes far enough to engage the starter.
However, the key is clearly not in the right position, because the key in the "lock" position is actually providing Accessory to the truck. And I am unable to turn the key back to the actual Accesory position. I spent hours looking at it, and I only see one way that the gear/rack teeth will properly engage, so I am at a loss
Did you try sliding the ignition switch back toward the steering wheel? That would potentially solve both your problems, starter would activate sooner and key may turn back farther. I said potentially, if you haven't tried that. Otherwise, possibly a new ignition switch may solve the problem.
Did you try sliding the ignition switch back toward the steering wheel? That would potentially solve both your problems, starter would activate sooner and key may turn back farther. I said potentially, if you haven't tried that. Otherwise, possibly a new ignition switch may solve the problem.
I have not tried. I will do it first thing in the morning and report back!
Did you try sliding the ignition switch back toward the steering wheel? That would potentially solve both your problems, starter would activate sooner and key may turn back farther. I said potentially, if you haven't tried that. Otherwise, possibly a new ignition switch may solve the problem.
So that solved MOST of my problem. Truck is no longer running ACC when I have the key off, and way easier to start now. Key still wont turn back to ACC, so I have to use RUN to operate windows/radio. But I can live with that for now. Thanks for the help!
I wonder if what happens over time is the rod that goes down the steering column to activate the switch gets shorter, due to wear and arcing. It could also become dirty, resulting in a marginal contact with the switch.
So that solved MOST of my problem. Truck is no longer running ACC when I have the key off, and way easier to start now. Key still wont turn back to ACC, so I have to use RUN to operate windows/radio. But I can live with that for now. Thanks for the help!
Then you (actually both of you guys) still do not have it have it lined up / timed correctly.
Originally Posted by DPDISXR4Ti
I wonder if what happens over time is the rod that goes down the steering column to activate the switch gets shorter, due to wear and arcing. It could also become dirty, resulting in a marginal contact with the switch.
No. the rod goes into into a notch in the ignition switch. There is no electricity through the rod nor is there anything to wear out. Would the handle of a push broom get shorter from use?
Then you (actually both of you guys) still do not have it have it lined up / timed correctly.
I know I dont. I have spent hours looking at it and can't see any other way for the teeth on the lock cylinder gear to mate with the rack. If you have any advice, or could point me towards something on the internet, It would be greatly appreciated.
Everything I have found via Google is " these things are super hard to time correctly", but no advice or videos showing how to do it succesfully.
I replaced the actuator on mine a few years ago. It was more trial and error then something I can specifically say to do. Have you tried different ignition switch positions? The switch has slotted holes so
maybe you are close and could adjust the switch?
I replaced the actuator on mine a few years ago. It was more trial and error then something I can specifically say to do. Have you tried different ignition switch positions? The switch has slotted holes so maybe you are close and could adjust the switch?
I sorta wish it did NOT have slotted holes, as then there wouldn't be any question on the correct position! How did you decide what the "correct" position was from your trial and error session.
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