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66 F100, custom cab, 352, 3-spd. While troubleshooting a fuel gauge problem, and reconnecting the battery, I now have no electrical power. Turn on key and nada. Checked all fuses at fuse panel, all good. What am I missing? Is there a main fuse or fusable link I don’t know about? Any advice would be appreciated!
66 F100, custom cab, 352, 3-spd. While troubleshooting a fuel gauge problem, and reconnecting the battery, I now have no electrical power. Turn on key and nada. Checked all fuses at fuse panel, all good. What am I missing? Is there a main fuse or fusable link I don’t know about? Any advice would be appreciated!
Do you have he optional Ford Oil and Alt. gauges in your dash? If so there is a 70 amp fuse on the fender apron that all the power to the cab runs thru. But unless you created a dead short somewhere that fuse should not have blown. Sounds like you possibly just have some bad connections somewhere.
Yes, I do. And I disconnected those to remove the front part of the instrument panel to access the gauges. Could I have caused a short? Possibly! Which side fender apron? Thank you so much. I think you have me on the right track.
Yes, I do. And I disconnected those to remove the front part of the instrument panel to access the gauges. Could I have caused a short? Possibly! Which side fender apron? Thank you so much. I think you have me on the right track.
That fuse if it is still there is mounted near the starter relay. This is a picture of mine. It isn't the same as the original, I used a resettable breaker in order to have an easy way to shut the power off to keep the electrical vampires at bay when the truck sits for a long time. But yours should be wired up in a similar way. When you disconnected those wires from the Alt. gauge if you allowed that stud to rotate at all you could have broken a connection in the gauge that would cause it to loose continuity. I will look for a gauge to take a picture of to illustrate what can be broken in the gauge if that stud turned.
Here is a picture of the innards of that Alt. gauge. That copper strip between the terminals has to be intact to have continuity in that circuit. If it breaks no current will get to the cab. This one was repaired at sometime in it's life and the negative terminal show signs of being severely overheated.
Great pics, thanks! So..... what you’re saying is, the gauge has to be hooked up to pass power to cab? Mine is still removed. I hope it’s as easy as that.
Crop Duster - Can you provide the part number for the fuse? I've been through the MPCs front to back and have never run across a part number for a 70A fuse for our 1961-1966 trucks and never seen one installed on any truck I've looked at. All of my trucks have the extra gauges and no fuse here like on your truck. I also looked at the 11,000 mile 1966 and it has the extra gauges but I can't see any fuse on the apron and no hint of any holes where one might have been on any of them.
Crop Duster - Can you provide the part number for the fuse? I've been through the MPCs front to back and have never run across a part number for a 70A fuse for our 1961-1966 trucks and never seen one installed on any truck I've looked at. All of my trucks have the extra gauges and no fuse here like on your truck. I also looked at the 11,000 mile 1966 and it has the extra gauges but I can't see any fuse on the apron and no hint of any holes where one might have been on any of them.
Thanks
Chad-I do not have a part number. I found a thread once that had what was supposed to be the part number for that fuse but since they changed this site up I can't find anything anymore. I do know that all the wiring diagrams depict a fuse when those gauges are installed. I believe that the gauge I posted a picture of suffered the consequences of not having a fuse in the circuit at some time in it's life.
Well, there you have it! Learned something today!! Thanks for getting me back on track. I will probably start another thread for my fuel gauge issue. Thanks again!
Chad,, In the MPC does it list the parts that would have been included in that gauge kit. I know that most of these gauges were dealer installed and a lot were owner installed. There must be some sort of parts list and instructions somewhere.
I've never come across an indication of a kit for that - I can see many kits from snow plow kits, mirror kits, carburetor kits, engine gasket kits, transmission gasket kits, rebuild kits, shock absorber kits, turn signal kits, emergency flasher kits, horn kits, air horn kits, roof marker lamp kits, the tool storage compartment kit and on and on. But, no hint of a kit for the extra gauges.
I've never come across an indication of a kit for that - I can see many kits from snow plow kits, mirror kits, carburetor kits, engine gasket kits, transmission gasket kits, rebuild kits, shock absorber kits, turn signal kits, emergency flasher kits, horn kits, air horn kits, roof marker lamp kits, the tool storage compartment kit and on and on. But, no hint of a kit for the extra gauges.
There was never a dealer installed kit to install oil/amp gauges. I'd be willing to bet that 95% of the F100/350's with oil/amp gauges were factory installed.
Some people added aftermarket oil/amp gauges, in the instrument cluster bezel, or mounted under the dash.
There's no 70 amp fuse. There's a 40 amp circuit breaker (C5TZ-14526-J) installed on F100/250 Camper Specials.
There's several different 70 amp resettable circuit breakers, but were only installed on BIG trucks.
There's no 70 amp fuse. There's a 40 amp circuit breaker (C5TZ-14526-J) installed on F100/250 Camper Specials.
There's several different 70 amp resettable circuit breakers, but were only installed on BIG trucks.
The 40 amp circuit breaker was installed on Camper Coach or Trailer Coach - that's not the same thing as a Camper Special. You can see for yourself. Look at Section 144 Page 21 - notice how it lists as the first item the F100/250(4/W/D), F350 - with Camper Coach. Just ask yourself how many 1965/66 Camper Specials came on a 4x4 or F350.
On my 65 the battery cable runs to the starter solenoid, on the Same terminal on the solenoid it has a 10 gauge wire that runs into the cab.
make sure the connection is clean and tight
The Ford wiring diagrams show a 70 Amp Main Circuit Breaker. That is what I installed in our restoration. Amp meters have been eliminated in newer vehicles and replaced by voltmeters that monitor system voltage. They are safer than the old type ammeters which require all the load to run through a single small device. Our restoration also eliminated the ammeter and we installed a voltmeter from VDO in the cab.
