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I'm using a Reese Pro Series sway control, no wdh with this setup. 70 psi in the rears, 60 in the front, trailer tires aired up to specs. I have plenty of tongue weight. I really have to fight crosswinds and trucks passing. Pulls nice with no crosswind. Would a wdh make any difference? I have lots of towing experience but never used a wdh. This is a 350 and camper is about 5k loaded. Came from a 2002 350 SRW, I suppose the sway was about the same with that one.
I've never pulled a trailer that had just sway control. I've either had nothing or I had full WDH w/Sway Control. So I can't speak for how well sway-only works.
Your trailer looks to be nose down. I would bring it up a couple inches.
I have a toy hauler. If anything is going to catch the wind, it's my toy hauler. I've used two different brands of WDH with it and both have worked well. Blue Ox and Andersen. Given the truck you have, the Andersen would be ideal.
I've never pulled a trailer that had just sway control. I've either had nothing or I had full WDH w/Sway Control. So I can't speak for how well sway-only works.
Your trailer looks to be nose down. I would bring it up a couple inches.
I have a toy hauler. If anything is going to catch the wind, it's my toy hauler. I've used two different brands of WDH with it and both have worked well. Blue Ox and Andersen. Given the truck you have, the Andersen would be ideal.
Originally Posted by 1dryfly
A trip to the Cat scales would be a good idea. Load it up like you travel.
Both of these guys are correct.
Get the front of the trailer up.
Get to the scales and KNOW what you have.
I actually have it nose down for a reason-I plan to drop the suspension an inch and that should level it out some. I don't like they way they build these so high anymore.
With that small of a trailer, are you seeing the trailer sway behind you, or is it transferring to the truck and moving the truck too?
A WDH would help, even if it doesn't have specific "anti-sway" components because it transfers weight to BOTH the trailer axles and the truck steering axle. It should be a pretty forgiving setup with a heavy truck and light trailer.
Actually it's not trailer sway so much but the whole unit gets pushed around like a solid block. I have no concerns about tongue weight, the tongue is plenty heavy with a full tank of water up front and heavy items stowed to the front.
If everything is moving sideways as a solid block, that's about as good as you can do. Simply being heavier will reduce that somewhat, or reducing side-area by having a low profile trailer.
The nose of the trailer is low. If you plan to lower it, you will still need to raise the ball height some. Getting pushed around by wind and Semi's passing is par for the course when towing a big lightweight box out back. A good WDH with Sway will help. It's common physics...move some of that weight off the the back axle of the truck and send a little to the front and I am sure you will notice a significant improvement. Your manual will indicate how to properly set it up if you go that route.
All the Passports I have pulled have towed remarkably well in my opinion. I've certainly experienced no perceptible sway in reaction to wind or passing semi's. It may be that the nose low position of your camper is causing your problem because your two axles are not carrying the weight equally. This can result in unusual behavior. Once you flip the axles and get the unit level, you'll likely see a marked improvement in handling.
A WDH can reduce the sway tendencies of a camper by increasing the weight that is on the axles, resulting in a more "planted" trailer. However, I would want a comprehensive scale session to know what I was dealing with before throwing money at it.
- Raise nose of trailer or lower trailer at axles, an inch seems about right if you add a WDH.
- Go to a WDH to get some more weight on the truck's front axle
Remember: tongue weight (from a bumper-pull) doesn't just add weight to the rear axle, it also subtracts weight from the front axle. This will make the steering react differently than empty, and also differently than same combination with a WDH putting a few hundred pounds back on the front axle. Dropping the rear down through whatever means changes the geometry between the front axle and the pavement. Raising the front does it more.
My Jayco 28bhs bucks the trend by pulling better with the nose down a little and some water in the fresh tank. Tried for a whole year to make it pull straight while perfectly level and it was horrible no matter what.
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