I'm not sure what the rate was on the body shop side but a guy I worked for about 8 years ago charged 30-40 an hour on the garage side. That's just my area though and other garages seem to be closely priced for mechanical work at least. I know nothing on pricing for body shop. I got really lucky with my quarters and rockers and a buddy is charging 10 bucks an hour plus materials, he works at a body shop full time and is helping me out as a side gig, he estimated 20 hours for rockers quartrrs, hang a passenger fender and paint whatever needs paint with fleet white.

 

All the transfer cases use the same 6 bolt pattern. Check on the spline count but I think those are the same too. Do you have room for the NV271?

 

The 271 is what ujoint likes to use on their builds, I think there may be a spot in the floor that needs some clearancing where there is a brace. I'm rethinking my plans and may try and source a 1356 to avoid any electrical issues or adding wiring to make the speedo work. I've read mixed opinions and reviews on the signal converter to use the vss in the rear axle but, I think it will be easier all around to sell the 271 and use a 1356.

 

Man waiting to make progress is a killer. Gives me too much time to think of other enhancements for my van. I'm hoping my body man is making decent progress. I really want to have this suspension and axles wrapped up by the end of summer. I broke down and spulrged a little on cut off wheels and a diamond blade for my grinder to cut my rear spring perches off, I'm hoping to reuse them, I'm on a budget and every dollar I can save will help out. And I don't mind doing extra work it gives me something to mess with while I'm waiting.
My buddy has me almost convinced to try doing a turbo build. No swap is going to be cheap, and neither is turbo after all supporting mods are done. But it would be different and would definitely help out all around I think. There are alot of builds that claim to be reliable in the 300 hp range on stock bottom end, doesn't sound far fetched if you consider some of the numbers v8s are making on stock bottom ends. There is a ton of material on the 3.8 and 4.2 on v6mustangs.com and a few f150 builds I've been reading that used mustang v6 turbo kits customized to fit of course. I'm sure in a van I would need electric fans which is a modification I was going to do anyways to try and free up a little power, any bit will help on a 4.2 van. I have alot of reading to do on turbos yet to understand sizing and what not to get the power in a useable range for me. Lots of thinking to do while I wait to get my van back from the body man, lol.

 

Room and heat are the issue with turbos on a van. Back in the day someone had a turbo kit that sat under the carriage but had a slight turbo lag. 2 small turbos helped that out. Wasn't cheap.

 

That was one of my concerns, just like the diesel vans. I am planning on a scoop or louvers on the hood to help with heat when I'm just slow creeping on trails in the summer months. And I also considered a body lift maybe 1 1/2"-2" just help make servicing easier, but the gap might help airflow in the engine compartment, that was a plan even before my buddy started convincing me id love a turbo setup if it's sized right for what I'm doing. It's a really long term "IF" at this point. I thought maybe run a low boost setup at first, and I might have a lead on an 01 4.2 for a good price with the 4x4 4r70w I need, but I considered saving for h beam rods and forged pistons and studs for the possible back up engine, for when the original 4.2 dies, if it dies, there's alot of overloaded work vans chugging away getting abused by employees out there everyday. All just thoughts and ifs right now. I want to get the 4x4 conversion wrapped up first and make sure it drives right. But this spell of down time is giving me too much time for my imagination to run wild. Haha

 

I went a little deep on the first one but nothing a bead of weld won't hide.

I highly recommend using a diamond cutoff wheel to remove the rear spring perches to move them out to match the van spring locations. Easily one of the best $12 investments I've made. Took maybe 20 minutes to get them both off nicely, and another plus I can reuse them instead of dropping 50 bucks+/- on a new set from ruff stuff. I just gouged into the weld on each side of the perch about an 1/8" deep into the weld then a couple good smacks with my little 2lb hammer and they popped right off easy peasy. This will also allow me to correct my pinion angle to make up for the shackle flip out back. I could've just used the semi float 60 that's in the van, it would be easier, but the Sterling sounds much stronger from all I've read and from what I've seen other guys break. Hopefully the 3.73 gears will do okay with the 285-75-16 tires I have for now, I may go as big as 35s eventually. The 4.10 rear in the van on stock size tires makes it feel like it has plenty of power, but the weight increase and tire size increase is going to eat that up quick not to mention higher gears. I don't really want to invest much in the front d50 though, so I really don't want to buy gears until I find a d60 front for a good price. So I'm hoping it isn't too hateful to drive until that time comes. But since I'm planning no bigger than 35s maybe the 50 will be fine and worth investing a little money into? Any thoughts are appreciated. Ive never had trouble with front axles but I've grenaded alot of 10bolt and d35 rears in Chevy's and jeeps I owned.

 

Rethink any body lifts on the van if youre doing 4x4. All the reputable 4x4 converters for vans wont do body lifts because the size of the van body while offroading often breaks them.

I didnt have to clearance anything on my 4x4 conversion with the NV271 and 5R110, although I did have to shorten the fuel tank at the front by about 5 inches. My fuel capacity went from 35 gallons to 31 gallons.

Id suggest doing it once, doing it right. Go immediately for a D60 front axle. I run a 35x12.5 and 4.10 gears and with my V10, do wish I went 4.30 or 4.56 instead. The V10 likes more RPMs.. Most 4x4 van guys with diesels like the 4.10s, but these modular motors like more gear.

 

That is my main concern with the body lift. I know handicap conversion companies use big body lifts 4"+ in conjunction with dropped floors but that would basically just be the front and rear mounts from what I've seen, with just from the dash to rear wheel wells being dropped. And most people with a handicap van won't be actually using it like I will be.
I'm still undecided on if I'm going to source a 1356 or use the 271 I have and buy the signal converter for the speedometer. I'm using the 4r70w, I'm pretty sure my tank will need shortened as well. I will be buying u joints tank shortening kit although I'm sure my dutchee friend with the welding shop can manage without the template and plate. I had considered trying to source a rear mount tank but unless I go shuttle bus size all I'm finding are under 20 gallons, I'm not sure the shuttle bus size will clear the rear axle since mines not an extended version.
I'm sure I will need at least 4.56, but that's going to be at the end of the list. I'm running the 4.2 v6. With stock size tires and no extra axle or other weight it feels plenty powerful with 4.10 rear. I'm hoping it's not too dreadful with the 3.73 that are in the set of axles I have. I agree with doing it once and doing it right. I will be on the lookout for a super duty d60 for a good price. That's one good thing about PA salting the roads, all the rust makes cheap parts easier to find.

 

I still don't understand this thread, but it may be worth reading when comparing the BW1356 with the NP271:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ners-read.html

 

That's a pretty good read, my 271 is from an 01 f250, i guess that means it should've had dex III or iv? So it shouldn't cause any issues unless someone serviced it with dex v is what I gathered from it.
I split a 1356 like the 271 pictured in the article though. I blame the chain breaking from 260,XXX miles of abuse and the 351 being pretty healthy still. It made a grinding noise on the one on ramp on my way home from work unless I babied up to speed, when I got off my exit and went to pull out onto PA233 it made a terrible crack and didn't move anymore. What I found looked just like the picture except a broken chain hanging out of one half. Luckily mid 90s Ford's are pretty plentiful at the one local yard, the owner runs Ford's so he saves everyone he gets.

 

A little to clean up yet, but this shows pretty well, you don't have to go very deep to get the weld to break. A little grinder work on these and the tubes cleaning up some and fixing a gouge I put in the one tube and these babies are ready to go back on.

Different angle to show you don't have to go very deep with the cut. Save yourself a headache and even if not reusing the perches just invest in a diamond wheel. It took 20 minutes or less and I was dicking around in no rush and working from my wheelchair, I'm sure any able bodied person that can use a grinder without hurting themselves could do it in half the time.


Front spring hangers for rear leaf spring. Just so any first timers know what to look for or save from parts truck if they feel so inclined as to do a poor man's shackle flip.

 

Small ding to fix. It was worse but I did a little hammer work and used a ball peen as a dolly. A very light skin of plastic and noone but the body man, you guys, and myself will ever know it's there.

sanding is not my favorite thing to do but saving money is one of my favorite things. Clear was messed up and had a small ding under the corner light to fix. The price was right and it was local. Body man said sand it with 320 until I can't feel the transition so I did. Hopefully it suits him, I'm no body man but I can spray bomb flat black and camo like a *****. It's getting fleet white to match the rest of the van, hopefully match. I was originally going to monstaline the whole van to help protect the top against limbs and basically give me a finish I don't have to worry about just spray it off and it's good. Lately I've been thinking of using tractor paint and rolling it. I've done off road trucks and mud trucks this way and it turns out tough as nails when it cures, I had to use a grinder to cut it because a wire wheel wouldn't do it, not fast enough for me at least. I might still drop the coin on monstaliner though, at least then there's a reason for a textured rolled on finish other than that I'm a cheapskate. Although a rolled paint job using the tractor paint from tsc is a tough finish. I'm still a ways off from that though. Some guys argue that using a bed liner type finish causes it to rust more. My thoughts are if there's no rust to start with and it's prepped right and applied correctly there shouldn't be rust to worry about whether I use paint or a liner type finish. Any feedback or opinions from someone that knows more than me are welcome. I don't want to do something thinking I'm doing good and really causing harm. Also keep in mind this is not intended to be a show van, it's going to get used, it's going to be squeezed onto trails with growth downed limbs and trees. I just want it straight and solid, and most importantly to be the coolest van in South Central Pennsylvania.

 

I've sprayed it, brushed it, and rolled it on everything but an automobile/truck (so far). Use the hardener and don't skimp on it. If necessary to thin, use only Naphtha or Acetone to thin it. Wear a respirator. I love this paint!

 

I've never used tractor paint on any of my on road vehicles, but the off-road ones I did looked pretty nice from 8 or 10 feet away. The majic brand or whatever TSC sells sounds about the same as the valspar above. When thinned down it even lays out fairly smooth. If you let it thick it gets that roller texture like a roll on liner or hammered metal.
I paint everything with tractor paint too haha
Edit* I just noticed it says chip and abrasion resistant , explains alot of why I found it to be such a tough finish.