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Long story short, I realized today that the weight distribution (WD) hitch mount for my Travel Trailer (TT) is 2". The receiver on my F250 appears to be 2.5". Not good.
Luckily, I was at Bass Pro Shops looking to burn a gift card and came across an adapter made by Reese. It's more of a sleeve to slide into the 2.5" slot on the hitch.
Anyway, when all the sudden done, everything fits now but there is still (what I would say) is a fair amount of play with the WD hitch assembly.
The 2018s came with the reducer sleeve and there is what I consider to be a significant amount of play too. It’s not a big deal and you shouldn’t be concerned. What annoyed me was the rattling. I could hear in with the windows down when driving rough roads. i removed the reducer and slide some hard rubber in between the top of the reducer sleeve and the hitch when I reinstalled it. Stopped the rattling. I will have a fun time getting that reducer out if I ever need to. It’s wedged in there pretty right now.
Anyway, when all the sudden done, everything fits now but there is still (what I would say) is a fair amount of play with the WD hitch assembly. How concerned should I be about this?
Once you hook to the trailer, and bring up the bars on your WD hitch, there will be no rattle. If there is, something is broken. If the rattle unloaded really bothers you, you can by a new 2.5 shank for your WD head. My truck has the 3 inch hitch, so I get to run double reducers, and a replacement shank is not available.
Once you hook to the trailer, and bring up the bars on your WD hitch, there will be no rattle. If there is, something is broken. If the rattle unloaded really bothers you, you can by a new 2.5 shank for your WD head. My truck has the 3 inch hitch, so I get to run double reducers, and a replacement shank is not available.
Good addition to my reply. I should of stated that I only heard the rattle when not hooked up to a trailer.
FWIW - Here is the result of using the Ford supplied 2 1/2" reducer with my 2" Equal-i-zer shank WDH, after 8,000 miles of towing. Finally replaced the 2" shank with a 2 1/2". There was no rattle with spring bars attached, but, as the hitch pin hole elongated, starts and stops resulted in loud "clunks" as the shank moved back and forth in the receiver.
FWIW - Here is the result of using the Ford supplied 2 1/2" reducer with my 2" Equal-i-zer shank WDH, after 8,000 miles of towing. Finally replaced the 2" shank with a 2 1/2". There was no rattle with spring bars attached, but, as the hitch pin hole elongated, starts and stops resulted in loud "clunks" as the shank moved back and forth in the receiver.
I used my 3" to 2.5" to 2" reducers the first time I towed my toy hauler. At the time, I used a Blue Ox WDH with a 2" shank. My receiver hitch showed a similar elongating. After that tow, I switched to an Andersen WDH with a 3" shank. I've seen no further elongating of the pin hole.
Last edited by HRTKD; Jun 3, 2019 at 08:27 PM.
Reason: because I felt like it!
I also noticed that the bend in the hitch pin also matched the elongation and deformation of the pin hole in the receiver. So I added a collar to the pin to keep the bend away from the pin hole.
Hey guys, question!! I am looking to upgrade soon from my f150 to f250/f350 diesel crewcab 2017 or newer. I want to get a nice hitch attachment for my few trailers that i will be using on my f150 2” hitch for now and I just realized that f250/f350 diesels have bigger hitch sizes. I am debating if i should just get something cheap for now and when I upgrade to a diesel then I can see if the hitch is 2.5” or a 3” and then get nice hitch attachment or buy a nice 3” hitch attachment and get a reducer to 2.5”-2” so i can use on my f150. Not sure what would be the best. Want to save money and not buy a temporary one for a 2” hitch. Any ideas? Would love not to use reducers from a 3” to 2.5” on a newer diesel truck.
whats your thoughts
I was planning to weld a reducer to the 2" shank but ended up just getting a replacement 2-1/2" shank for my WD hitch. I'll use the reducer for the other minimal towing I do but I was worried that heavy hauling with the reducer would not end well.
The straight draw bar (no drop) worked on my 2015 F150 4x4 with 33” tires on it. Maybe get a 2 inch drop and you can flip it if you pull a taller trailer.
I bought a 2.5 inch hitch for my F250 that is rated for 20k. I will weld an adaptor on it if I get a 3 inch hitch F350 later.
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