I have the same issue with my 78. We replaced track bar bushings early on. Fixed frame under the steering box. New front wheel bearings and u-joints. New tie rod ends, drag link etc... No improvement. I did notice that the lock washer holding the pitman arm was broken. When I replaced it, I noticed the pitman arm was loose on the shaft. Luckily the splines weren't damaged. Put a new washer and nut on to proper torque and it helped some.

Plan this week is to replace C bushings and radius arm bushings and see where we stand. Hoping to avoid a new steering box, but all of the above was/is needed.

Check that your pitman arm is on tight. It is hard to check with everything connected. Disconnect the drag link and check for play.

 

Will check that thanks.

 

Bill is right on the mark!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

And since we are discussing the trac bar bushings. When it is all apart, put just the bolt in the trac bar frame bracket and ck for the bracket holes to be worn. I'd also ck the holes for wear with a NEW bolt too.

Also how are your radius arm bushings where they connect to the frame in the drop brackets?

 

Will do. Radius arm bushings and mounts are tight.

 

This was exactly the scenario I had when I got my truck. The whole front end went side to side and was the spookiest thing I'd ever seen!

After new Steering Shaft, Track Arm Bushings, Radius Arm Bushings, C-Bushings and new Drag Link and Tie Rods my steering drastically improved enough that
I didn't have to replace the steering box..... yet.

 

Yep. We all tend to look at the box first when there's a problem. Stock steering gearboxes aren't great, but the main problem is usually elsewhere.

A video camera (smart phone or GoPro), can expedite diagnosis. I use my phone on a tripod quite a bit for this kinda stuff. My good friend has several GoPro's that I've used while road testing.

 

Hello all.. I have found my issue. Thank you for all the advise. I have cancelled my steering box order and will save for a red top. It turns out I did totally overlook my Axle u joints. The left one is seized beyond belief. I feel really stupid. I just assumed... We know the old saying.. Thanks again
Brent

 

Yep, bad U joints cause some pretty spooky steering. Until you experience it, it just doesn't seem possible.

Glad you found the issue!!!

 

Excellent. That's the second one of these I've heard of recently. I've had front axle shaft joints go bad before, but never bad enough to effect steering. Totally makes sense that it would though.

And btw, thank you for updating everyone so we can learn too. Too many of us forget or just don't care, once the problem is resolved.

 

One cap was so tight it had to be cut out. No visible rust outside of the joint. Disappointing as they are only 3 - 4 years old. Still can't believe I missed it.
Brent

 

That cap got HOT !

 

what the hell is a rag joint?..

 

Hi judi, welcome to FTE!
The "rag joint" is one of the common steering couplers on the steering column shaft leading into the steering box. Not all Ford trucks use one however, so it depends on what model you have as to whether or not yours will have one.
It's an insulator/isolator that mainly came out after power steering was a thing I believe (don't know the exact timeline) so that the subtle vibrations that the power steering pumps put into the system were not felt in the steering wheel. Some were mounted up by the steering column, others down by the steering box. The better place is up high at the column because the "rag" material is a fiber/rubber infusion in the shape of a disc and does not fare well when it's soaked in oil and power steering fluid over time. If they stay dry they can often last the life of the vehicle. If they remain contaminated with under-hood fluids they can wear out badly and give your steering a loose feel.

What year/model truck do you have? Next time you're under the hood see if your shaft has one. There are usually two yokes/joints of different types, along with the rag joint. Some have a u-joint style yoke, some (like mine) have the old style "tulip joint" coupler to go along with the rag joint.

Paul