Anyone got anything they want added or feel should be added?

Any changes to recommend?

Got anything? Then email me using the link in my profile.

Mahalo!

 

What about a general area for differences in the different model years??

You can list the engine changes, badge changes, head lights, interior changes, etc....

How about general maintance tips?? Ideas that others have used to prevent/fix certian problems??

Updates to the aftermarket section...Would UPGRADES fall here?? (I.E. 2002 headlights/ corner lights on a 1999)

 

Excellent stuff!

BTW, I'm not sure why I said email when we could all just make a big thread outa this.

Model year differences would make a great addition. Actaully they all would (and will.)

A General/Preventative Maint section would be the bomb.

______

Keep the ideas comin'! Ma brain's already startin' to work on a whole new look for it too!

 

Monsta !
The post about" Shudder on take off"

has alot of good info in it and from the amount of people asking about it very common.

Me being not being the computer expert ,don't know how to link to it .
I can summarize it and post to the above post you mentioned or do what ever you ask.
!
Rich

 

Hmmmmmmm...

Please open your checkbook. Notice the available balance. Make sure that it is AT LEAST 4 didgits before the decimal.

Now...grab a pen.

Write on the "Payable to" line; Ken Stroupe.

Good.

Now...look at that available balance and transfer it exactly to the "amount".

Ensure that you SIGN the check.

Drop it in the mail to me.

A receipt for your "donation" will be forthcoming.

 

Where is the Van Section?????????

 

Funny you said that Monsta !!!!!!

After writing that I said he won't do that!

Should have known better!

Whats your address???????
HE HE HE

Rich

Hey who let the Bus in!!!!!?????????Must be one of Monsta 's cousins
welcome to FTE

 

You help me put it together and it'll go up!

I gotta add an Excursion section while I'm in there too...

 

Monsta,

Here are some items that I would like to see added to the FAQ:



------------------------------------------------------------



1. Disabling the Autolock Feature. Read your manual – for those of you who bought used and don’t have a manual:

Autolock (if equipped)

This feature automatically locks all vehicle doors when the following conditions are met:

- all doors are closed, and
-the brake is pressed before reaching 8 km/h (5 mph), and
-the ignition is in the RUN position and the vehicle is traveling more than 8 km/h (5 mph).

Relock

The autolock feature repeats when the following conditions are met:

- any door is opened then closed while the ignition is in the RUN
position, and
- the brake is pressed before reaching 8 km/h (5 mph), and
- the vehicle is travleing more than 8 km/h (5 mph).

Deactivating/activating the autolock feature

Before following the procedure, make sure that the ignition is OFF and all vehicle doors are closed.

You must complete steps 1-7 within 30 seconds or the procedure will have to be repeated. If the procedure needs to be repeated, you must wait 30 seconds.

1. Turn the ignition key to ON.
2. Press the power door unlock control three times.
3. Turn the ignition key from ON to OFF.
4. Press the power door unlock control three times.
5. Turn the ignition back to ON. The horn will chirp.
6. Press the unlock control, then press the lock control. The horn will chirp once if autolock was deactivated or twice (one short and one long chirp) if autolock was activated.
7. Turn the ignition to OFF. The horn will chirp once to confirm the
procedure is complete.

The Keyless entry still works fine with the autolock disabled (all disabling the autolock does is stop the truck from locking the doors for you when you put it in gear - everything else works as it did before).




----------------------------------------------------------




2. Disabling the Beltminder Feature. Read your manual – for those of you who bought used and don’t have a manual:

One time disable

Any time the safety belt is buckled and then unbuckled during an
ignition ON cycle, BeltMinder will be disabled for that ignition cycle only.

Deactivating/activating the BeltMinder feature

Read steps 1 - 9 thoroughly before proceeding with the
deactivation/activation programming procedure.

The BeltMinder feature can be deactivated/activated by performing the following procedure:

Before following the procedure, make sure that:

- The parking brake is set.
- The gearshift is in P (Park) (automatic transmission) or the neutral position (manual transmission).
- The ignition switch is in the OFF position.
- All vehicle doors are closed.
- The driver’s safety belt is unbuckled.
- The parklamps/headlamps are in OFF position (If vehicle is equipped with Autolamps, this will not affect the procedure).

To reduce the risk of injury, do not deactivate/activate the Belt
Minder feature while driving the vehicle.

1. Turn the ignition switch to the RUN (or ON) position. (DO NOT START THE ENGINE.)
2. Wait until the safety belt warning light turns off. (Approximately 1–2 minutes.)
Steps 3–5 must be completed within 60 seconds or the procedure will have to be repeated.
3. Buckle then unbuckle the safety belt three times, ending with the safety belt unbuckled. This can be done before or during BeltMinder warning activation.
4. Turn on the parklamps/headlamps, turn off the Parklamps/headlamps.
5. Buckle then unbuckle the safety belt three times, ending with the safety belt unbuckled.
After step 5 the safety belt warning light will be turned on for three seconds.
6. Within seven seconds of the safety belt warning light turning off, buckle then unbuckle the safety belt. This will disable BeltMinder if it is currently enabled, or enable BeltMinder if it is currently disabled.
7. Confirmation of disabling BeltMinder is provided by the safety belt warning light flashing four times per second for three seconds.
8. Confirmation of enabling BeltMinder is provided by:
- The safety belt warning light flashing four times per second for three seconds.
- Followed by three seconds with the safety belt warning light off.
- Once again, the safety belt warning light will flash four times per
second for three seconds.
9. After receiving confirmation, the deactivation/activation procedure is complete.


This is the procedure I followed to disable my beltminder. I had to do it two or three times before I got the sequence/timing right.

Pay close attention to the parts in RED - this is how the computer tells you that it is keeping up with you and you are indeed successfully deprogramming the beltminder.

NOTE: This does not disable the initial chime when you first start your engine (6 or 8 beeps). This only disable the obnoxious BeepBeepBeepBeepBeep you get every minute or two while driving down the road without the belt buckled.




------------------------------------------------------------




3. Disabling the key in the ignition chime (alternate method for those of you nto wanting to remove your ignition). . Read your manual – for those of you who bought used and don’t have a manual:

As far as the Key in the ignition chime, the actual chime is a integral part of the trucks electronics and therefore cannot be removed without messing up other things.

JC's procedure for disabling the Key in the Ignition Chime:

1. Remove panel under dash.
2. Locate the brown six wire connector on the right side of the steering column.
3. Find the black with pink stripe wire.
4. Unplug connector.
5. Remove the red doo-hicky that holds the wires into the connector. (if I remember correctly, that's how they're held in)
6. Remove the black with pink stripe wire.
7. Tape or heat shrink loose wire.
8. Plug connector back in and reinstall panel.

That's it, only takes like 5 minutes and you don't even have to destroy anything. Another nice thing about it is all the other things that use the chime still work. (lights on, door ajar, etc.) I've had it disconnected for four months now with no side effects.

For me, the color of the connector under the dash was Grey but everything else was the same (the sensor wire was black with a pink stripe).

In either case, the sensor no longer sends the signal to the computer and you no longer have that annoying chime whenever you open the door.




---------------------------------------------------------------




4. Programming remote transmitters. Read your manual – for those of you who bought used and don’t have a manual:

To program the transmitters yourself:

1. Ensure the vehicle is unlocked.

2. Place the key in the ignition and turn from LOCK to OFF and cycle between OFF and ON eight times in rapid succession (within 10 seconds) with the eighth turn ending in the ON position. The doors will lock to confirm that programming mode has been entered.

Within 20 seconds, program a remote transmitter by pressing any button on a transmitter. The doors will lock/unlock to confirm that the remote transmitter has been programmed. (If more than 20 seconds pass before pressing a remote transmitter button, the programming mode will exit and the procedure will have to be repeated.)

Repeat the previous step to program additional remote transmitters. The doors will lock/unlock to confirm that each remote transmitter has been programmed.

When you have completed programming the remote transmitters, turn the ignition to OFF or wait 20 seconds. Again the doors will lock/unlock to confirm programming has been completed.

 

Frequent Problems section with solutions

Please feel free to edit these, I'm sure I missed something.

* The V-10 1750-1900 RPM Flutter
Problem description: Noise coming from under the truck at around 1750-1900 RPM, depending on the truck. Noise sounds like an exhaust leak or exhaust flutter.

Usual fix: Locate the heat shield on the transmission, just behind the oil pan. This is a vertical heat shield held on with a few bolts. Use a pair of pliers to bend the heat shield away from the transmission about 1/8"

Monsta: if you'd like a picture of the heat shield, let me know before it gets to cold to go outside.

Y-pipe replacement (I can't help here, but I remember reading about this as a fix for the flutter, my truck's flutter was fixed by bending the heat shield)
And I think there were other solutions to the flutter problem.

*Supercab door squeak
Problem Description: Annoying squeak in the supercab doors caused by loose latches. The doors have too much freedom to move, and are rubbing against eachother.
Usual Fix:
1. Use door-ease to lube the weatherstripping around the doors available online. One source is midwayautosupply.com
2. Replace the bolts and relocate the lower latch plates for the rear doors inward 1/16" - 1/4" depending on the truck. Drilling on the latch plates may be required. The old bolts must be replaced because they are countersunk, and don't allow you to move the latch plate.
Use button head M8x1.25x30 bolts, with loc-tite. Stainless steel bolts are suggested if you live near snow/salt.
McMaster.com part number for the appropriate bolts, because I couldn't find them at Home Depot or Ace Hardware: 92095A290

Again, if you want pictures, let me know. The Superduty FAQ is a great asset.

-Andy

 

More Tire and wheel Info! ok ok ill shut up...dang

 

Excellent idea.

 

maybe there should be a section for internet etiquette?

 

Here's a thought, why don't you go buy all the wheel and tire combinations available bolt them on your truck, write down your findings, and offer them as a data base for all the other members to learn from.

 

Hey Monsta,

I assume that since you posted this request, this is our opportunity to present you with a wish list (hopefully with some of the blanks filled in) of all of the things we'd like to see in the FAQ.....

Based on this assumption, here are a couple of other thoughts that came to mind:

1. A while back, there was a good bit of discussion about upgrading the headlights - this information would be a good addition to the info already there regarding the fog lights.

2. Don't know how to go about it, but a section on what other parts might swap between X's and Superduties. Maybe body parts - doors, bumpers?, How about suspension parts - shocks, springs, sway bars? Or maybe interior stuff - consoles, seats, dash components? Or even electrical stuff - lights, wiring harnesses? How about trim items - lenses, grill inserts (already in the FAQ)? Then there is also a wide array of braces, bars, brackets, hangers, etc. in these vehicles that might be interchangeable...

This one will take a lot of research and a lot of work, but maybe the FTE community can pitch in and help fill in the blanks.

This info would be real helpful to anyone going to a salvage yard to get parts for their latest project....... I'm afraid my Superduty is still new enough that I haven't had to go searching - yet.....

Anyway, just a thought.