1995 f150 5.8 with e4od—— original tranny and torque converter replaced 114,000 miles (napa) —— first tranny had a shudder in d and od on light acceleration ——replaced tranny and within a year shudder is back, also engine is missing——what are the chances the pcm is making this shudder—-(

 

pull the codes and see what the pcm has stored or shows during a test.

 

Only code is 33—egr did not open—-

 

How old are the spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor?

A small misfire can many times make you think the torque converter is shuddering.

During which tests did you get the Code 33?

FYI a 1995 truck should have three digit codes, not two.

 

Cap, rotor, wires have 1000 miles—- going to replace pickup coil, this trucks previous owner did not give it the attention it deserved——code w koeo is 111 koer is 33—after replacing pickup coil i will time it—- im pretty sure there are 2- digit codes, correct me if im wrong

 

95 should be 3 digits. My 93 is.

is it possible it is Code 332 definition: EGR valve opening not detected.

 

What about the spark plugs?


This vintage truck does not have a pickup coil in the distributor. It's is Stator aka PIP sensor. Essentially it is a hall effect device.


There are two parts to the KOEO tests and stored code display. You listed KOEO Code 111 System Pass, what about CM codes?


There is never a mix of two and three digit codes. It's two or three. Your 1995 truck will have three digit codes. You already listed you got System Pass Code 111 for KOEO. Your KOER results will also be three digit.

 

i'm currently experiencing the same shudder in my 92 F150 4.9 with an auto E40D tranny thats been present since i bought the truck a few weeks ago. Shudder in OD with slight acceleration just let off the gas and get on it again it goes away. It sort of rumbles shifting from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to OD. I had codes for bad VSS, code 654 MLPS, and code 628 for excessive torque clutch slippage. I replaced the VSS and trying to replace the safety neutral now (turned into a nightmare with new harness).
I replaced the plugs, wires, cap and rotor a few weeks ago so i dont think that would be the problem but who knows. I might just tear it down again and see if everything is still tight and gapped right. Also wanted to change the stator/PIP before last ditch effort to pull a trans in my driveway to do a Torque converter change out because thats pushing the limits of my mechanical skills with no shop to use. If i had to do it i was going to go ahead change the rear main seal at the same time and borrow my buddys engine hoist and replace the motor mounts and try to get it up enough to change the oil pan gasket that looks to be leaking too.

I'll be following to see any updates, i was going to find/order the stator this week but i wont be able to drive it till the new harness gets here next week. hopefully theres an answer to this shudder because its a pain in the butt and i haven't found the answer yet

 

RLA , plugs were also changed—- truck was not ran much this winter—added seafoam— my chilton manual and internet shows 2 digit and 3 digit codes—-code 33 was koer——i checked my plug wires for arcing in the dark with water, isolated arcs with rubber hose

 

Ford started transitioning from two digit to three digit codes in 1991. Your truck displays three digit codes as you previously stated "code w koeo is 111"

So several clues your truck displays three digit codes:

1. Your KOEO test results are three digit.
2. Your 1995 F150 is designed to display only three digit codes.
3. Your truck will never display a mix of two AND three digit codes. It's two OR three. For your truck, as previously stated many times, your truck is designed to display three digit codes.

Given the above facts above your KOER test result is System Pass Code 111, displayed twice as it was designed. Same thing happens (codes displayed twice) for the KOEO codes and the Continuous Memory (CM) codes.



If the ignition parts are relatively new and test out good you may be looking at plugged/sticking injectors causing your misfire and is most likely contributing to your "shudder". Right now it's a process of elimination by using good troubleshooting techniques.


I am not sure I understand your last statement: "i checked my plug wires for arcing in the dark with water, isolated arcs with rubber hose". Did you observe arcing then used rubber hose as an insulator?

 

So on my continuous memory the 33 must have been 111—-111 blinking faster than the koeo, i get it now thanks——as for the water/ arcing—- yes i sprayed water on the sparkplug wires, started the truck and shut the lights off to look for arcing—- then covered any arcs with rubber hose—-( internet thing lol)——thankyou for the advice, new injectors and pip it is, ill keep all posted

 

rla’s advice was not to open up your wallet and throw parts on it. At $40 to $100 per injector that is very expensive without doing any testing.

 

I appreciate that!

 

your not using a code reader, your doing the count (check engine) flash correct, you have to watch flash close, have someone write down what you say dont take your eyes off dash/gauges, have you checked fuel pressure, at idle, blip throttle see if pressure rises quick then settles back down at idle, then shut off engine and watch fuel pressure gauge, and see if it starts losing pressure, 'right then' or takes a few minutes to start losing pressure, if injectors are sticking they can stick open or closed, fuel pressure dropping quick says one or more is stuck open, check for vacuum leaks also

 

before you throw parts at it, test 4 show how to test PIP
Part 1 -How to Test the Ford Ignition Control Module (Distributor Mounted)