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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Ignition Question

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Old May 31, 2019 | 05:57 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by jay67212
Franklin2, thanks for the info! From what I've seen, it's that part from the snap ring on that scares the crap out of me. I'm going to see about tackling it this weekend but now my front gas tank is leaking more so I may focus on sealing that sucker up first. Plus the oil was last changed in 2012 and the oil filter says it was installed in 2010. *sigh.
Recommendation on the tank; Get a new one, they are cheap. A clean fuel system means a reliable truck. If it has holes in it, rest assured the tank is full of rust and has thin spots.
 
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Old May 31, 2019 | 06:26 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
Recommendation on the tank; Get a new one, they are cheap. A clean fuel system means a reliable truck. If it has holes in it, rest assured the tank is full of rust and has thin spots.
That's the end game plan. I know it's thin as tissue paper, I just don't want it to continue to leak all over my driveway. I'll be working to stop the leaks while I replace the steering lock actuator, so I see if the carb cleaner worked, so I can see if it will start, so I can change the 7 year old oil, so I can see if it will start...:-)
 
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Old May 31, 2019 | 09:23 AM
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Most steering columns have a spring on the bottom inside the engine bay that keeps constant pressure on the little round wire clip under the steering wheel. If you can use a bungee or ratchet strap to push up the bottom of the column it can make the work a bit easier, but I rarely have to do that. Sometimes it's a PITA to pull on the steering wheel splines and work that annoying round wire clip back on.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2019 | 04:11 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by jay67212
That's the end game plan. I know it's thin as tissue paper, I just don't want it to continue to leak all over my driveway. I'll be working to stop the leaks while I replace the steering lock actuator, so I see if the carb cleaner worked, so I can see if it will start, so I can change the 7 year old oil, so I can see if it will start...:-)
Did you also swallow a spider to catch a fly I don't know why you would swallow a fly?
JK good luck
Dave - - - -
 
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Old Jun 1, 2019 | 08:03 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
Did you also swallow a spider to catch a fly I don't know why you would swallow a fly?
JK good luck
Dave - - - -
No kidding, but if it were easy, I wouldn't enjoy the end result so much, right? That's what I keep telling myself anyway.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2019 | 01:54 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by jay67212
No kidding, but if it were easy, I wouldn't enjoy the end result so much, right? That's what I keep telling myself anyway.
Oh man am I going to enjoy the HE!! out of mine!
Mine is a cab off frame rebuild and every time I think I have something fixed something else pops up.
Just think I found out my problem with the new Ebrake cables and why I can't adjust it to get the pedal off the floor.
Got to buy new cables again as I have had them too long and cant remember who I got them from.
Dave ----
 
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Old Jun 1, 2019 | 09:05 PM
  #22  
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What a good day! Turned out the gas tank had two pinhole leaks. I had to punch a nail in one to get the hole bigger to drain it. While that was going on, I showed my 16-year-old son how to change the oil and filter. It had been changed back in 2010. He did great and could get into place where this chubby old dude couldn't. I think that was a good memory-maker for both of us!
I'm going to JB Weld the tank tomorrow. And yep, the steering column do-hicky is broken, so I was trying to crank it with pliers, but the reman battery I bought has already crapped out. So I'm going to be spending more money on this beast!
 
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Old Jun 1, 2019 | 09:21 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by jay67212
I'm going to JB Weld the tank tomorrow.
Caught a typo in your post. “Replace” is not spelled “JB Weld”.

All seriousness aside, if your tank already has two pinholes, it also has several others in work about to breach. That’s in addition to rust forming on the inside, just waiting to kill your fuel pump and clog the filter. Don’t mess with it. Don’t try to clean and save this tank. Replace it. They are surprisingly inexpensive.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2019 | 09:25 PM
  #24  
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Ha! I just don't want it leaking any more. That's why I'm JB welding it. I will replace it once the truck is running. The rear tank is in much better condition.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2019 | 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by jay67212
That's why I'm JB welding it.
You made the same typo again.

If I can’t persuade you, at least use the correct product, not regular JB Weld:

https://www.jbweld.com/products/j-b-weld-tankweld


Permatex and Loctite made a similar product. It’s a special putty that only sticks if the surface is wet with fuel or oil. No idea how it works like that, but it does. It is amazing.

The catch is that nothing can permanently adhere due to the normal flexing of sheet metal. Eventually it will work loose because of that. It’s a great emergency repair, but unfortunately will not last due to the application.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2019 | 09:34 AM
  #26  
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I patched a motorcycle tank with JB Weld before, it degraded and leaked. I wouldn't use it. There are actual fuel tank patches, kind of like a piece of gum, but I would just go and pull one from the wrecking yard.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2019 | 10:18 AM
  #27  
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If you pull the tank now that it is empty and light (not heavy), plug the lines with bolts stuffed in the ends and clamps so nothing can come out them you can then run it off the rear tank till you have time & money to replace this tank with new one.

I have pulled tanks before, cleaned the outside good and then used fiberglass to seal them. This was back in the day before you could get cheap new tanks and none were in JY's.
Most were in wagons where the tank was behind the rear wheel and the tire would kick up all kinds of junk and kill the tanks.
Dave ----
 
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Old Jun 2, 2019 | 12:50 PM
  #28  
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I agree with the others. If you just want to get it running, get your lawnmower gas can out, and get a long piece of hose and put it on the input to the fuel pump and stick it down in the gas can. You would not believe the trouble that dirty old tank is going to cause you in the long run.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2019 | 02:48 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
I agree with the others. If you just want to get it running, get your lawnmower gas can out, and get a long piece of hose and put it on the input to the fuel pump and stick it down in the gas can. You would not believe the trouble that dirty old tank is going to cause you in the long run.
That is how I have been running mine. Can sits on the inner fender so I can move it in & out of the garage to make room so I can work on other parts of the truck.
I do this because I am still rebuilding the truck and I don't want gas going bad in either tanks before I get it on the road.


Dave ----
 
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Old Jun 3, 2019 | 05:45 PM
  #30  
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I've already been using a clean gas can as an aux tank, but I think the carb is hosed.I'm going to get a new one and slap it on hopefully this weekend. I will have the rear tank swapped out with a new one before it's all said and done.
 
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