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A good car wash, that uses heated water, and has an under body flush is about all you need. Two, maybe three trips though in the spring, to flush any salt that may have found its way into the frame, and your good to go.
For those who don't think the under body flush of a car wash is good enough, I have to ask, 'how does the salt you are worried about find its way in then?'
A good car wash, that uses heated water, and has an under body flush is about all you need. Two, maybe three trips though in the spring, to flush any salt that may have found its way into the frame, and your good to go.
For those who don't think the under body flush of a car wash is good enough, I have to ask, 'how does the salt you are worried about find its way in then?'
Most car washes reuse the rinse water, and during winter months it's mainly salt water. I avoid car washes just for this reason, don't want a saltwater rinse.
Most car washes reuse the rinse water, and during winter months it's mainly salt water. I avoid car washes just for this reason, don't want a saltwater rinse.
So there are 2 types of carwashes, ones that use a reclaim system and ones that dont (city water). I have a reclaim system in the one I use to operate at my previous work location.
The wash water is reused (high pressure wash) and goes through a reclaim system and ozone system to clean the water. I would not want to get sprayed with that water as it is still nasty. However, the rinse water and spot free rinse goes through multiple filters to insure it is spot free. The rinse water is clean and fresh.
So it soaps, blasts with reclaim (dirty) water via high pressure (about 300psi) then the wax, rain x and final spot free rinse is all fresh clean filtered water.
I had a 1993 Suburban that was thoroughly rust proofed and undercoated when new. Routinely washed/bottom blasted at automated car wash. At the 10-12 year point, it developed a lot of rust (bottom of doors, wheel wells, brake lines, drive shafts, surface of frame...).
Then we got a 2008 Suburban. we had Krown rust proofing done YEARLY (similar to Fluid Film). Similar wash regimen. Now at the 11 year point and NO rust where previous Suburban was in very rough shape.
Not a scientific study by any means, but enough to convince me that yearly low viscosity water displacing rust proofing (Krown, Fluid Film...) is an effective approach. Our 2018 F-450 just had it's 1 year anniversary Krown application. At about $150/year/vehicle it is not low cost...but repairing rust has been way less less than effective. And body shop work does not come cheap!
In Canada i use Krown and have it resprayed every second year- used to be called rust check , i have never ever had any rust , it is forbidden on my cars or trucks.
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