Since the VCs are off I'd do the 50 cent mod to help prevent those clips from coming loose in the future.

Let us know what Peruvian coin is the same size as a quarter.

If you had a water experience recently, like heavy rain or splashing thru a deep puddle, that would be another clue the IDM is the problem. Water can get in there. Sometimes they can be dried up and function, sometimes not.

 

Got it.
So I just did that and here is what I found
2,4,6,8 all read 3.3 Ohm
1,3 read 3.3 Ohm and 5,7 read 3.2 Ohm
Since those are all in spec I know that the wires (power and ground) from the female side of the IDM plug to each injector are all good.
**(btw the IDM in the 1999.5, E-350 is located drivers side under the hood, just under the coolant expansion tank)**
Here is the diagram that I am using
GB Remanufacturing - Tech Bulletin #103

I found a person in Lima that rebuilds injectors and says that he can get new injectors for this motor. I looked into new injectors (stock) in the US and found that Allient Power make an "AD" injector with part number AP63803AD to replace the stoke injectors for 99-2003 PSD. BUT, the numbers on the injectors in my motor have two numbers each on the top of the solenoid, the first is the same across all 8 (AD1831551C1) . the second is different on all 8 injectors.
If the guy in Lima has original rebuilt injectors, is it important that they match the numbers on my injectors?

-John

 

Good question
I had a "water event" about 8 months ago when my coolant pressure tank (mounted directly above the IDM in the 1999.5 E-350, PSD) cracked and leaked everywhere. Also Since I have a built truck I like to drive on the back roads and have done so throughout the trip so have passed many rivers and massive rain storms along the way.
--See post responding to Chris-- I think that I have narrowed it down to one of 2 things at this point
1. Mechanically bad injector on the odd side
2. Bad transistor or resistor for odd side injectors in the IDM

Thoughts??

The guy in Lima says he can solve both problems so he is coming today or tomorrow with new parts, we will see.
If not I think I know what to go get from the US.

 

Chris,
I check the glow plugs at the VC connector and they Ohm'd out in sped.
Is there a way to test "up stream"?
I used the previous post
Welcome to FTE Darren. Most of the generic (read inexpensive) code readers will not work on our engines. I'd be willing to guess if you could read the code that is in there it would be a P1316 code. The common cause for what you're describing is a loose plug on the UVCH (under valve cover harness)

Here's what the problem looks like


Now the trick is to figure out which valve cover you need to remove to plug this thing back in. Since you don't have a good scanner that can run things like a buzz test, the next best option is to grab a multi-meter and set it to read ohms. Located on the inboard side of each valve cover you will see some wires leading to a plug connector. This is a flat 9 pin connector that you will need to unplug to expose the pins inside.

The 9-pin plug is wired as follows:

G G I I C I I G G

G=Glow Plug +
I = Injector +
C= Injector Common

The injectors fire with a 115VDC signal from the IDM. Do Not pierce the wires to test.

Test between "I" and "C" to test the injectors, should be less than 5.0 Ohms.

To check glow plugs Test between "G" and battery ground. Should be between 0.6 and 2.0 Ohms

If you find readings outside these numbers, pull that valve cover and check for the loose connector.

We also have a 7.3 diesel specific section located a little further down the main forum listing page. We'll see if we can't get your thread moved down there so you get more input on this from other folks that have the same motor.

 

Try a new IDM first. There is really no indication the injectors are bad. How can four on one side go bad simultaneously?

 

Agreed but I do not have a new IDM and getting one will be a challenge. I read somewhere on the web that if one injector in the bank is bad it is possible that it could make that bank not function, not sure if that is true?
The tech that is showing up today says that he has a scan tool that can test the IDM, I thought that you need an oscilloscope to test the IDM, or just another IDM?
We will see what happens today..

Thanks again for the help, having a sounding board with this much knowledge is really amazing! I see a support payment in my near future.

 

Here is my version of the .50 cent fix BTW, since I am in Peru and have no quarters I used a piece of plastic from the shroud of my truck


Cut off the tab in the red circle and mad ea few shapes that fit in the clip


Fingers crossed it does not melt but it is only plastic?

 

Also, here is a video of the buzz test. You can clearly hear that 1,3,5,7 are very quiet.

 

I believe someone suggested unplugging one injector at a time, clear the codes and then start the truck.

You may be able to get the IDM to fire 7 out of 8 injectors instead of the IDM shutting down an entire bank because of one faulty injector that way. Of course, if the IDM is the faulty part, you have just wasted your time, but if you are waiting for the tech to show up anyway, what is there to lose...

 

Ok I can try this for sure, must have missed that in all the above.
I just want to understand the order of things so I do it correctly. Sorry for the stupid questions.

1. Unplug injectors one at a time
   1. With motor and key off?
   2. Then reattach each injector?
2. Clear codes
   1. With key on but motor not running?
3. Then start to see if it's running on more than 4 cylinders.

Is that correct?

 

I don't even shut the engine off, I just un plug them one at a time while running.

 

I have not done this procedure myself, but if I were I would do something similar to this...

1. Unplug injector #1 while leaving injectors 3, 5 and 7 plugged in
2. Turn key to on and reset codes
3. Turn key to off
4. Turn key to on, then start and see what happens

If problem persists, move on to

1. Turn key to off
2. Unplug injector #3 while leaving injectors 1, 5 and 7 plugged in
3. Turn key to on and reset codes
4. Turn key to off
5. Turn key to on, then start and see what happens

If problem persists, follow suit until you have tried all 4 injectors on the "bad bank".

I don't know if this will work, but it certainly cannot hurt anything.

 

Ok so unplug one and leave it unplugged then unplug the next...
Or
Unplug one and replug after a few seconds?

 

un plug one if no change plug it back in and un plug the next one, through all 4.
I did have one truck where the wiring had lost some of the plastic shield and the injector wire was contacting the common wire. all my resistance values were in spec but the IDM would still shut that bank down.