When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
That's not a bad gap. Ohm the injectors and see how they all measure out. Look for any that are 0.5 ohms or more out of range. Then start the truck with the valve covers off. Don't worry, it won't make a mess. You should see about the same amount of oil spit out of the discharge tube of each injector.
Oil discharge spout
A bad injector solendoid (brown square thing on top) will read about 0.5 ohms different than the others and will cause the IDM to shut down that bank of the engine (no oil coming from the spouts). If that's the case, unplug the one injector, clear the codes, and start the truck again. It will still have a miss and run bad, but it will be on 7 cylinders instead of 4. That means you need a new injector since they don't sell the solenoids separately. (but a junkyard might work if they have one available in your parts)
My .50 mod lasted about 2 years. Recently replaced the UVCH due to a large gap even when the plug was snug. Common center wasn't getting contact. New UVCH, much better!
That's not a bad gap. Ohm the injectors and see how they all measure out. Look for any that are 0.5 ohms or more out of range. Then start the truck with the valve covers off. Don't worry, it won't make a mess. You should see about the same amount of oil spit out of the discharge tube of each injector.
Oil discharge spout
A bad injector solendoid (brown square thing on top) will read about 0.5 ohms different than the others and will cause the IDM to shut down that bank of the engine (no oil coming from the spouts). If that's the case, unplug the one injector, clear the codes, and start the truck again. It will still have a miss and run bad, but it will be on 7 cylinders instead of 4. That means you need a new injector since they don't sell the solenoids separately. (but a junkyard might work if they have one available in your parts)
Ok I re-read the thread and tested the injectors and glow plugs and they were all in spec.
Plugs were all about .6
Injectors were all about 3.2
So I will put it all back together and see if it runs.
I will start it and run it with the valve covers off and check each injector visually.
Just cleaned all fuel systems and changed oil and filter.
Update
The passenger side injectors are not working. No oil is flowing and the exhaust fanifold is cold.
The driver's side is working perfectly.
Could there be a short in the harness?
OK so after another day of working on the motor I have this to report and hope someone has some more ideas.
I passenger side injectors are not mechanically working. I managed to find a scanner tool with a buzz tester and the even side sounded strong and the odd side sounded much more quiet. Also as I said above the exhaust manifold on the passanger side is cold.
I have checked the electrical connections for injectors and glow plugs and they are all within spec. (Ohm test as well as AC voltage at the main valve cover harness plug. I did not test each injector plug as I did a continuity test on all of these wires)
The truck has new oil, filters and clean fuel.
I checked all related relays and fuses in the fuse box under the hood and they are all good.
I have a new OEM IPR installed and tested the ICP for positive voltage.
Codes-
P1293
P1316
P0603 (this one came on and then when codes were cleared it did not come back)
P1000
Questions-
What about the IDM? Is there a way to test and see if it is bad? I have read that it is possible to have a failure in the IDM that will take out only one bank, has anyone seen this?
Since your in a place where parts my be hard to come by and both valve covers are off you could try swapping the valve cover gaskets and uvch's to eliminate a bad one.
Since your in a place where parts my be hard to come by and both valve covers are off you could try swapping the valve cover gaskets and uvch's to eliminate a bad one.
I did a continuity test on all the wires in each harness, but that would be definitive for sure.
You can back up to the 42 pin connector and do the ohm test on the injectors again from there to see if you find a problem in the wiring. It's a known issue to have wires chaff behind or below the 42 pin connector.
If you've still got the scanner, you can also unplug one injector at a time, clear the codes, then start the truck and see if the other 3 start working. But as mentioned, it could also be a bad IDM.
You've at least found your problem. The IDM is not commanding that half of the injectors to fire. So that means you've got an electrical issue causing the bank to be shut down. IDM, wiring, wiring connector, injector soleniod. At least the list is short.
05-22-2019, 08:29 PM
