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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

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Old Jun 21, 2019 | 01:09 PM
  #16  
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Holley

Get in touch with Holley, they should be able to help. Drilling the holes is no big deal. You just have to start with a 1/16” or smaller bit making the hole near the front about 1/4” from the end of the plate. You usually just have to increase the size of the hole 1/64” at a time until you have the idle stop screw like I said before.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2019 | 02:14 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by kenny nunez
Get in touch with Holley, they should be able to help. Drilling the holes is no big deal. You just have to start with a 1/16” or smaller bit making the hole near the front about 1/4” from the end of the plate. You usually just have to increase the size of the hole 1/64” at a time until you have the idle stop screw like I said before.
you can hear cam overlap?
 
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Old Jun 21, 2019 | 02:16 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Brian1971f100
Pull the plugs and read them. Could be the float sticking. What are you running for a carb?
pulling the plugs today
 
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Old Jun 21, 2019 | 07:18 PM
  #19  
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I'm assuming you have already fine tuned the idle air mixture and checked for around 10 degrees idle timing with vac advance disconnected.
Did you by chance have any backfiring issues when you were doing the initial startup and tuning? It's possible you could've blown the power valve. I had one run like crap (it was a 302 with a Motorcraft 2100 carb, but these use power valves just like Holley). All it takes is one bad backfire through the carb to toast one.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2019 | 09:57 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by eric8
I'm assuming you have already fine tuned the idle air mixture and checked for around 10 degrees idle timing with vac advance disconnected.
Did you by chance have any backfiring issues when you were doing the initial startup and tuning? It's possible you could've blown the power valve. I had one run like crap (it was a 302 with a Motorcraft 2100 carb, but these use power valves just like Holley). All it takes is one bad backfire through the carb to toast one.
Ok, so i haven't made any adjustments to the carb. I just bolted it down out the box. i set my timing at 10 degrees. My distributor does not have a vac advance. Its a Mallory Unilight. i did not experience any backfires during the initial break in. Im new to this and learning. The is my first carb engine rebuild. Im better with EFi.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2019 | 08:46 AM
  #21  
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Holley tuning

If you remove the carburetor flip it over, there is a secondary throttle stop screw in the base plate that you can use to let in more air so that you back off the primary idle stop screw. Try 1/4 turn at a time.
If you google Holley carburetor tuning there is a tutorial which should get you on the right path.
If you were down here in “Yatsville” I could help you.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2019 | 08:51 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by kenny nunez
If you remove the carburetor flip it over, there is a secondary throttle stop screw in the base plate that you can use to let in more air so that you back off the primary idle stop screw. Try 1/4 turn at a time.
If you google Holley carburetor tuning there is a tutorial which should get you on the right path.
If you were down here in “Yatsville” I could help you.
Thanks Kenny,

I am born and raised in Marrero went to Riverdale High. I moved out to the Gulf Coast in 09. thanks for the help. If you want to make $150 helping me tune let me know.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2019 | 10:27 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by BayStYat
Ok, so i haven't made any adjustments to the carb. I just bolted it down out the box. i set my timing at 10 degrees. My distributor does not have a vac advance. Its a Mallory Unilight. i did not experience any backfires during the initial break in. Im new to this and learning. The is my first carb engine rebuild. Im better with EFi.
It definitely sounds like a lean mixture in the video. Make sure you don't have any unused vacuum ports on the carb that are uncapped and causing a vacuum leak. Check for vacuum leaks elsewhere on the intake manifold as well. Set the float height on the carb. Turn in and (lightly!) seat all of your idle mixture screws. Back them all out equally 1.5 to 2 turns and start tuning from there.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2019 | 12:01 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by eric8
It definitely sounds like a lean mixture in the video. Make sure you don't have any unused vacuum ports on the carb that are uncapped and causing a vacuum leak. Check for vacuum leaks elsewhere on the intake manifold as well. Set the float height on the carb. Turn in and (lightly!) seat all of your idle mixture screws. Back them all out equally 1.5 to 2 turns and start tuning from there.
awesome thank you
 
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Old Jun 23, 2019 | 01:33 AM
  #25  
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Just running open headers (like it sounds is the case?) will create a lean issue in some cases. Most cases maybe.
You can't achieve a final tune until you've fully assembled the engine, including the exhaust system you're going to end up with. If you've already done that, great. It just sounds like open headers in the vid.

You also can't assume an out-of-the-box carburetor is jetted properly for every engine. The Holley 600 might be jetted great for 60% of stock engines, but yours is far from stock sounding.
What are the exact cam specifications?
Are you running a PCV valve system? Or are you just running valve cover breathers?

Definitely check for vacuum leaks while the engine is running. If you have vacuum caps that have been on the engine for more than a few months, they are suspect. Most of them are crap!

Is the valvetrain adjustable, or positive stop? If adjustable, are you sure you got it right? Did you do it static, or while running?

Just a few things to help us pass the time. Might be something in your answers to those questions that points us in the right direction.

Paul
 
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Old Jun 23, 2019 | 06:16 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by 1TonBasecamp
Just running open headers (like it sounds is the case?) will create a lean issue in some cases. Most cases maybe.
You can't achieve a final tune until you've fully assembled the engine, including the exhaust system you're going to end up with. If you've already done that, great. It just sounds like open headers in the vid.

You also can't assume an out-of-the-box carburetor is jetted properly for every engine. The Holley 600 might be jetted great for 60% of stock engines, but yours is far from stock sounding.
What are the exact cam specifications?
Are you running a PCV valve system? Or are you just running valve cover breathers?

Definitely check for vacuum leaks while the engine is running. If you have vacuum caps that have been on the engine for more than a few months, they are suspect. Most of them are crap!

Is the valvetrain adjustable, or positive stop? If adjustable, are you sure you got it right? Did you do it static, or while running?

Just a few things to help us pass the time. Might be something in your answers to those questions that points us in the right direction.

Paul
Paul,

thanks for the time and questions.

Yes open headers until i can get it to the exhaust shop. Engine is a 302 with 351 heads. 20 over with forged pistons.

I learned i do need to adjust the carb. I bolted it right out the box

I am running the stock PCV set up

Cam is COMP Cams K31-414-3 Magnum 224/224 Hydraulic Flat Cam K-Kit for Ford 221-302

I will check for any open vacuum ports

The stock rockers are positive stop

Thanks again for the help
 
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Old Jun 24, 2019 | 09:00 PM
  #27  
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You shouldn't need to drill your throttle blades with your combo. Here's a good place to start
 
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