Another Bed Rail Replacement Thread

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May 13, 2019 | 08:10 AM

OneTon350

Thread Starter

Mountain Pass

Joined: Jun 2008

Posts: 171

Likes: 3

From: Sams Creek Maryland

Another Bed Rail Replacement Thread

I have been needing to replace my bed cross-rails for a few years now. I used 2" x 6" and such to temporarily
support it. Two years ago I bought a replacement kit. So I finally took the time to get it done. I replaced
a few other parts while the bed was off. Shocks, upper shock mount (last time I changed shocks I stripped
the stud so I welded the shock on), E-vap charcoal canister, and rear exhaust and flowmaster. It rides so
much better now between the new shocks, and the bed not bouncing around. I also removes the air-bags
I had on it. The brackets were gone. Here are some pics.

May 13, 2019 | 09:27 AM

SuperDutyScaler

Lead Driver

Joined: Nov 2008

Posts: 8,450

Likes: 70

From: South Jersey

Nice work!
Theres nothing wrong with the factory supports EXCEPT the second layer ford used where the bed bolts go...guess instead of using a slightly thicker metal like the pre 99 trucks they went .5mm thinner and then doubled the bolt area and that's where they rot away. Either use better sealer or go back to thicker metal that's only one piece

May 13, 2019 | 10:10 AM

beachcamperf250

More Turbo

Joined: May 2014

Posts: 578

Likes: 146

From: Salisbury, MD

Man a forklift makes life so much easier, I built a platform out of scaffolding on each side to get mine off. I have a bed sitting upside down right now that needs new crossmembers including the front one. Did you by any chance do a video on it? I chickened out and bought a southern bed with no rust but still have the old one to work on.

May 13, 2019 | 10:11 AM

OneTon350

Thread Starter

Mountain Pass

Joined: Jun 2008

Posts: 171

Likes: 3

From: Sams Creek Maryland

Yeah, that makes sense about the double layer.
My 92' rails were rusted after 15years but nothing like this 07'.
The were still structural sound.

May 13, 2019 | 10:14 AM

OneTon350

Thread Starter

Mountain Pass

Joined: Jun 2008

Posts: 171

Likes: 3

From: Sams Creek Maryland

Quote:

Originally Posted by beachcamperf250

No video. I will say though, I used an air chisel to knock the spot welds loose.
Only punched through the bed pan once. Grinding wasnt working.
It was alot easier than I thought it would be.

May 13, 2019 | 10:17 AM

beachcamperf250

More Turbo

Joined: May 2014

Posts: 578

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From: Salisbury, MD

How hard was the front one to do? That is the one that I am trying to wrap my head around getting off and fixing.

May 13, 2019 | 10:47 AM

OneTon350

Thread Starter

Mountain Pass

Joined: Jun 2008

Posts: 171

Likes: 3

From: Sams Creek Maryland

Quote:

Originally Posted by beachcamperf250

How hard was the front one to do? That is the one that I am trying to wrap my head around getting off and fixing.

I tried a 4" grinder wheel with a cutting disk but it was too small.
The original metal on the rolled flange was basically OK so I left that.
I ended up cutting it off with an air-hammer cutter. (Pictured) I welded the new crossmember
to to old lip and ran a couple screws through it. It cut off really easy. with the air chisel. You can
see in the picture the existing double lip, and where I screwed into the new rail.
I had to have that rail made up however, since my kit didnt included it.