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Brake Replacement!!!

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Old Oct 3, 2003 | 06:58 AM
  #1  
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ek711980
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Question Brake Replacement!!!

Hello out there to all my fellow Explorer Owners! This question comes from Good ol' Birmingham Alabama...

I NEED TO REPLACE MY FRONT WHEEL BRAKES!!

I am very strapped for any extra MONEY and I have heard it is a lot cheaper to replace my brakes myself rather than take it to a shop and let them do it. Is there a website or something to that nature that will give me the step by step directions on how to replace them???
I've got a 99 Exploder Sport 2wd V6...by the way!!!

Any helpful hints or suggestions????

Thanks a Bunch !
Eric
 
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Old Oct 3, 2003 | 11:14 AM
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katneric
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From: Virginia
Eric

I would suggest you buy a Haynes manual. Cost is about $15 at most national auto parts stores and a #54 Torx bit. Should have you up and running in no time. The brakes are pretty easy to change on Explorer.

Good luck, Eric
 
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Old Oct 3, 2003 | 01:18 PM
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marragtop
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From: Baltimore
Here's a site that has good instructions..


Mike
 
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Old Oct 3, 2003 | 09:58 PM
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joebogey
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Cool

I have a 1997 Explorer XLT AWD, so take this from where it comes. I just replaced my front pads last week. I had replaced both the pads and rotors on the last break job, so it was easier as the rotors were not overly worn. You need to check the thickness and make sure there are no deep groves. I took the truly cheap way out and replaced the pads without having the rotors cut.

When you take the wheels off you'll see a bolt at each end of the caliper from the frame side. They hold the caliper in a carrier that is attached to the spindle.

-Simply take out each bolt and remove the caliper. (Some bailing wire helps, as the hose is short and there isn't any place to really let the caliper sit. Hanging it with wire is cheap insurance against a brake line leak).

-Toss the old pads.

-Insert new pads.

-Struggle for ten minutes pushing caliper pistons back into caliper and place back over pads.(If you have a 12" long piece of thick pipe or square tubing it helps so that you can push both pistons back in at the same time squarely. The best tenique I've found it to just apply constant and even pressure).

-Tighten down bolts.(It take a little patience to get the bolts back into the carrier without cross-threading them. The extra 5 minutes it will take you for the job is worth it.)

Then just take it out for a ride, first applying the brakes lightly coming to a long stop. This will seat them on the rotors. Try to avoid slamming on the brakes for the first trip or two so the pads you through a heat & cool cycle. This will help prevent the pulsating pedal normally associated with used rotors.
 

Last edited by joebogey; Oct 3, 2003 at 10:03 PM.
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Old Oct 4, 2003 | 06:46 PM
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Since you are watching your budget, check on eBay for brake pads. I bought several sets from a person in California. They were Wagner brand and only $14.99 a set buy it now. Shipping was $5 and insurance about $1.30. No taxes either. This came out to 1/2 what they would cost me locally. Its like getting an entire front and rear set for the price of 1. Received them in about 3 days too. The seller was p85. You can search for their name or for explorer brake pads. Hope they still have some available for you. Good luck.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2003 | 09:05 PM
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kshaw
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From: Gaithersburg
Borrow a torque wrench and invest in some sythetic brake grease. If you don't torque the wheels, you run the risk of warping the rotors. Brake grease between the caliper and pad can help prevent squeals.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2003 | 02:19 AM
  #7  
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Man you Guys are all Great!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.... I broke down and called my mechanic Dad!!! He is driving down (1 hr away) this weekend to supervize me!!!......But I did invest in a Hays Manual!!! This book is my new right hand when it comes to my truck!!!!!!!!
Thanks again!!!!!!!!!!
 
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Old Oct 9, 2003 | 09:05 AM
  #8  
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As far as pushing the pistons back into the caliper, use a C-clamp and leave the old brake pad in the caliper. Attach the clamp to the center of the brake pad and the back of the caliper. Open the bleeder screw (so you don't push dirty brake fluid back into the system) and crank the pistons in. Close the bleeder screw.

Be sure to top off the master cylinder when you finish bleeding the brakes.
 
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