I got 149, 000 on my original brakes but then I'm not a person who's hard on brakes.

I will be replacing calipers, rotors, and pads with Motor Craft parts when I get back home. I'll order them on line. I'll check the rotors myself and if they are good I'll get them cut if I don't do them myself. Rotors are the only thing I reuse, everything else is about safety so it's cheap to me to just do new on calipers and pads.

 

On the 2015 that I just traded, 7mm and 8mm on the fronts at 75,000. Dealer measures and reports with each oil change. Says to replace at 5mm. These trucks do not seem to eat brakes.

Bruce

 

My 2011 has 216,000 miles on it, a lot of it towing a 9-10K trailer. I have replaced the brakes more times than I care to think about. I used to order motocraft OEM rotors and pads but they took a long time to break in and the pedal was always kinda spongy. Lately I have been using autozone premium pads and rotors and now the brakes have most of their original stopping power and a hard pedal. I found the motocraft rotors were not "ground" like the autozone rotors and the metal kinda soft. The motocraft premium pads not compatible with the soft rotors. Autozone warranties all of it for life. Just my experience, and I do not work for autozone or have anything to do with them other than buying their stuff. I suppose that O'Riely or others can supply you with better than OEM also.

 

I'm brutal on brakes. It's probably because I tailgate. I've tried everything from OEM to cryoed rotors. Slotted & dimpled to straight. Do not recommend going with cross drilled. I've seen too many examples of rotors cracking between the holes. No matter what I've done I always wind up with brake chatter. This time I think I've found the solution. I went with Frozen Rotors cryoed rotors and Hawk pads. These things have been great. No chatter at all, hard pedal and very little squeal. Make sure you clean the hub where the rotor sits really well, I use emery paper to clean the hub, PIA because the lugs are in the way. Also make sure where the back of the rotor sits against the hub is clean, also torque the lugs using the proper tightening sequence. When finished find a back road and make sure you bed the new pads in properly. What concerns me about having someone else do the job is; are they torquing the lugs correctly and then bedding in the pads?


When I was on my quest for new rotors and pads someone here made an excellent post. It was sometime ago and I'm terrible at searching the site. This guy posted that he would never go with slotted, dimpled or cross drilled because it removes surface area. He said you want as much pad up against metal as possible.

I also replaced all the rubber lines with stainless steel lines. The 2 vertical lines in the back were brutal. I was tempted to take the bed off so I could get the clips on.

As far as the pins, I did have a broken rubber shield. I replaced both the rubber shield and the pin. I grease the hell out of the things. By over greasing I've never experienced a problem with a sticking caliper. If you over grease them make sure that you are able to allow the grease to escape as you put the pin in and then the rubber shield is properly seated. I use a toothpick. But be very careful, you don't want to poke a hole in the shield. I snip the end of the toothpick back a bit. It's messy.

On the caliper front, I searched in vain for a 3 or 4 piston caliper for my '13. Actually did find one, I think they were either $4,000 or $6,000. I believe that's a testament to how good the Ford calipers are.

 

I ran the Powerslotted Cryo's in the fronts, and the regular Powerslotted rotors on the rear of my 7.3, Hawk pads all the way around. I just figured I would ask on here, what the latest stuff being used was. It cost a fortune to replace rotors AND pads all the way around. At this point, my rotors are fine, so I'm just looking at pads. Sounds like OEM is the way to go, with the exception of one person having issues with them...

 

Great info, thanks fellas. I just did my rear pads with the best ones O'rielly had. My rotors looked good and measured 34mm with 32.6 as the stamped minimum. I have a '12 F350 with 140K that I've only owned for 4K miles. I don't think it has towed a whole lot. Next chance I get I'll do the front, they had a bit more left than the rears. I'm not familiar with bedding in the pads, I'll have to research that