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I have 1980 f100, its black and the body is in perfect shape but the color is faded. Does anyone have any suggestions on products or processes to bring the deep color back out? Any home remedies anyone found useful? Also wanting to know about buffing out the trim pieces, I think the front grille is plastic but the tailgate panel is aluminum, anyone ever polish those out? Thanks
For the paint. If it is faded to a dull, chalky surface and is a single stage (no clear coat) I wet sand with 1500 be sure to use lots of water and just sand till you get to colour in the cuttings. Then wet sand with 2000 grit again use lots of water. When that is done break out the power polisher with a polishing compound such as Meguiar’s M105 Mirror Glaze Ultra-Cut Compound. then follow up with a finishing compound such as Klasse All-In-One..and finally wax.
It never fails on a single stage heavily oxidized paint.
If it's just dull with no chalk skip the 1500 grit wet sand and go right to the 2000 grit wet sand.
Be sure the vehicle is spotlessly clean when you start, remove all road tar etc, Rinse each area be you start sanding and keep the area you are sand good and wet and be sure to rinse to carry away the cuttings.
There are lots of videos on youtube. I prefer to wet sand oxidized paint first as I find it quicker than trying to use a heavy cutting compound on the polisher and gives a better finish overall.
I have used powdered soap like Comet or Ajax a sponge and a lot of water. I also use dish soap in a bucket.
Once washed & dried use color back from turtle wax it will bring the shine back out.
Or after the soap polish as you would.
Dave - - - -
I used Fluid Film to bring my oxidized paint back to a shine. Just wash your truck good and apply a thin layer with a brush. then buff it in lightly with a rag. Took me 30 minutes to do my whole truck...looks great for hardly any work. Here's a photo right after the application was done:
lots of youtube videos showing how to do it. Most start off using a claybar.
How big of a dust magnet is that fluid film? How many times are you reapplying it?
Every other car wash?
lots of youtube videos showing how to do it. Most start off using a claybar.
How big of a dust magnet is that fluid film? How many times are you reapplying it?
Every other car wash?
You want to apply it on a sunny warm day. Put it on as thin as you can. Bake it in the sun if you can...it continues to migrate and thin. Less is more on the paint...stretch it. When it's applied thin like that dust is not much of a problem but I don't live in a real dusty area either. For washing I don't use hot water or soap. Cold water rinse with a hose takes off dust and dirt. Then I use paper towels on any bad spots and let it dry...then dry wash it with a dry wash mop. Very low maintenance for me. Sometimes I use no water only the dry wash mop for dusting.
I applied the fluid film for the first time a couple years ago. Then a light touch up as needed on problem areas to keep it maintained. As long as you don't use soap you won't need to re-apply it much at all. On the oxidized roof and hood I did do a couple applications. The oxidized paint absorbs more than the areas of good paint.
A gallon of it is pretty cheap and it's so useful in other areas of your truck. I'd hate to run out to tell you the truth. go to https://www.fluid-film.com/ and check out all the uses.
I'm familiar with fluid film I never heard of anyone putting it on their paint job.
I park in a gravel parking lot, its dusty.. Go down dirt roads so yea dust is an issue around here. But I bet it won't rust
I'm familiar with fluid film I never heard of anyone putting it on their paint job.
I park in a gravel parking lot, its dusty.. Go down dirt roads so yea dust is an issue around here. But I bet it won't rust
If you get that nice thin film on it and can sun bake it in a bit I think it won't be too bad for you. Because it dissolves rust and protects against further rust I'd try it first on only the oxidized parts or any rusty spots and see how it does with your level of dust. Since it protects like a wax the water beads up like crazy and the beading up tends to lift off the dust and wash it away. I'd give it a try if you are on a budget and looking for a cheap way to protect and give a shine at the same time.
I started using FF on my lawn mower deck undersides. The grass and juice washed off very easily and hardly stuck. I saw that mentioned on the web site and so far it really helps for clean up.
lots of youtube videos showing how to do it. Most start off using a claybar.
How big of a dust magnet is that fluid film? How many times are you reapplying it?
Every other car wash?
You need to physically remove the oxidized paint and smooth the surface, clay bars are generally used to remove dust, dirt, industrial fallout, acid rain, and other contaminants embedded in the paint. they are not really mean for cutting oxidization. You either cut it with a cutting compound or wet sand. I prefer wet sanding for the first step as you get better control over exactly how much paint you are taking off and it goes faster and leaves a better-finished product.
And using fluid film is no different than wiping it down with oil it is a temporary solution. All it does is hide the issue and does not rectify it.
You need to physically remove the oxidized paint and smooth the surface, clay bars are generally used to remove dust, dirt, industrial fallout, acid rain, and other contaminants embedded in the paint. they are not really mean for cutting oxidization. You either cut it with a cutting compound or wet sand. I prefer wet sanding for the first step as you get better control over exactly how much paint you are taking off and it goes faster and leaves a better-finished product.
And using fluid film is no different than wiping it down with oil it is a temporary solution. All it does is hide the issue and does not rectify it.
It is my understanding you use the clay bar first to remove the contamination before you start cutting it.
Otherwise you cut that crap right into the paint. PS I never said you use the clay bar to remove oxidation, I said you start with it.
And using fluid film is no different than wiping it down with oil it is a temporary solution. All it does is hide the issue and does not rectify it.
Fluid film is totally different than oil. I would never wipe oil on my rig. If you haven't tried it you don't know about it. I suspect you have not.
In some regards it is a temporary solution. I was thinking of painting before I tried FF and I still am at some point but the urgency is not there anymore as the body is protected, looks like I was waxing and buffing for hours. In fact after I did it to my truck all my friends said dude...did you paint your truck? I'm in no hurry to paint...and my truck looks great, beads water off the finish like it was waxed with a buffer. Took a half hour and used less than a bucks worth of FF.
When you do decide to paint FF comes off with hot water and soap. Try that with oil.
FLUID FILM penetrates to stop annoying squeaks in seconds and lubricates door and trunk locks, seat tracks, hood hinges, etc for up to 36 months. FLUID FILM protects battery terminals and electrical connections, keeps brake dust from sticking to wheels, keeps bugs from sticking to bumpers, restores oxidized paint jobs, and offers long-term protection inside door jams and enclosed areas.
FLUID FILM penetrates to stop annoying squeaks in seconds and lubricates door and trunk locks, seat tracks, hood hinges, etc for up to 36 months. FLUID FILM protects battery terminals and electrical connections, keeps brake dust from sticking to wheels, keeps bugs from sticking to bumpers, restores oxidized paint jobs, and offers long-term protection inside door jams and enclosed areas.
It does not restore oxidized paint it just hides it. It is not a proper solution to the issue and is NO different than wiping oil on the paint, as Fluid Film is just an oil. And is not safe for oil stable rubbers such all the weather stripping on these trucks.
It is a good temp solution for a flip, but it is not a fix, and just hides the problem. The OP is looking to fix/restore the oxidized paint not simply hide it. And given the properties of Fluid Film, it could wreak havoc for a repaint later on, much as Armour All does.
It does not restore oxidized paint it just hides it. It is not a proper solution to the issue and is NO different than wiping oil on the paint, as Fluid Film is just an oil. And is not safe for oil stable rubbers such all the weather stripping on these trucks.
It is a good temp solution for a flip, but it is not a fix, and just hides the problem. The OP is looking to fix/restore the oxidized paint not simply hide it. And given the properties of Fluid Film, it could wreak havoc for a repaint later on, much as Armour All does.
Actually the OP asked:
Originally Posted by JSB100
I have 1980 f100, its black and the body is in perfect shape but the color is faded. Does anyone have any suggestions on products or processes to bring the deep color back out? Any home remedies anyone found useful? Also wanting to know about buffing out the trim pieces, I think the front grille is plastic but the tailgate panel is aluminum, anyone ever polish those out? Thanks
FF is not a replacement for a good paint job. Nobody was suggesting that. But clearly if you think it is the same as oil or Armor All then you have no experience with it.
It's great for trim, plastic, chrome, aluminum, front grill, bumpers, frames, suspension. It's fine for oil resistant rubbers, but why would you put it on rubber? Don't put it on your door seals and then you won't have any issues.
My local body shop recommended FF to me as one of the products to be used to stop rust. I suggest that you should try it. It's obvious that you haven't so far.
