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FF is not a replacement for a good paint job. Nobody was suggesting that. But clearly if you think it is the same as oil or Armor All then you have no experience with it.
It's great for trim, plastic, chrome, aluminum, front grill, bumpers, frames, suspension. It's fine for oil resistant rubbers, but why would you put it on rubber? Don't put it on your door seals and then you won't have any issues.
My local body shop recommended FF to me as one of the products to be used to stop rust. I suggest that you should try it. It's obvious that you haven't so far.
BB2
I have been using fluid film for corrosion prevention for the better part of 40 years. And it is NOT a paint restorer it is NO different than coating a dull oxidized paint job with oil as that is EXACTLY what fluid film is. It does not fix it, it does not restore it, It just hides it that's all. And it is NOT safe for natural rubbers or rubbers that are not oil stable which is all weather stripping on these trucks and given fluid films creeping ability it will creep under window welting and the like. Not to mention it will dissolve the butyl windshield seal. Fluid Film should be used for what it was designed... a rust preventative and it does a good job at that. It is far from the best on the market though Llyod's AD 2000 is a superior rust preventative and safe for all surfaces including natural and non oil resistant rubbers and does not attract dirt to the same degree that fluid film does.
The op is not looking to hide an oxidized paint job but fix it. Fluid film on oxidized paint is a bandaid at best and hack repair at worst.
Not to mention it will dissolve the butyl windshield seal
As far as I know FF will not dissolve rubber. The issue is that may cause expansion of some non-oil resisting rubber. If you slather it on like a drunken sailor maybe you'll get expansion of your door seal. That's not how to apply FF. It's to be applied as a thin film and not applied directly on rubber. Incidental contact between the door frame and the rubber has caused zero expansion in going on three years now. Also incidental contact with rubberized undercoat has zero problems with dissolving or expanding for me.
Where did you get the idea that it dissolves rubber? I got zero results on a web search looking for fluid film dissolves butyl.
Not to mention it will dissolve the butyl windshield seal
As far as I know FF will not dissolve rubber. The issue is that may cause expansion of some non-oil resisting rubber. If you slather it on like a drunken sailor maybe you'll get expansion of your door seal. That's not how to apply FF. It's to be applied as a thin film and not applied directly on rubber. Incidental contact between the door frame and the rubber has caused zero expansion in going on three years now. Also incidental contact with rubberized undercoat has zero problems with dissolving or expanding for me.
Where did you get the idea that it dissolves rubber? I got zero results on a web search looking for fluid film dissolves butyl.
BB2
Do you know what the Butyl windshield sealer is made from? It is asphalt butyl mix this what keeps it from drying out and why it is like tar... Fluid Film dissolves asphalt as do any oils or solvents.
And it is NOT the door seals but the window lacing the doors seals are made from synthetic foam rubber. And have not been natural foam rubber since the 1960's.
Do you know what the Butyl windshield sealer is made from? It is asphalt butyl mix this what keeps it from drying out and why it is like tar... Fluid Film dissolves asphalt as do any oils or solvents.
And it is NOT the door seals but the window lacing the doors seals are made from synthetic foam rubber. And have not been natural foam rubber since the 1960's.
Ok...let's find out what happens when FF is applied to butyl window sealer
Here's a piece of 1/4" window sealer and some FF
Let's slather it on like a drunken sailor...
OK the test bed is set. We'll come back later and report on any reactions.
Do you know what the Butyl windshield sealer is made from? It is asphalt butyl mix this what keeps it from drying out and why it is like tar... Fluid Film dissolves asphalt as do any oils or solvents.
And it is NOT the door seals but the window lacing the doors seals are made from synthetic foam rubber. And have not been natural foam rubber since the 1960's.
I think other compounds are used for windshields too, like urethane rubber. And yeah this butyl sealer I have was made for windows and is sticky tarry like. Not like Butyl rubber.
I put enough FF on that sample which could have done most of a front fender. About 1000 times what might get to touch the edge of the sealer compressed in the window fit when FF is properly applied to the painted body.
About how long will it take for Fluid Film to dissolve the butyl windshield sealer? Hours, days, weeks, months or years?
Ford used the butyl window sealer for the original windshield installations but if you have had your windshield replaced anytime in the last 20 years it was likely installed with urethane adhesive rubber. These compounds are oil and gas resistant. Besides Fluid Film is not oil, contains no solvents...says so right on the can...formulated from lanolin...and after one day in contact with butyl sealer has done nothing to it but sit on top.
Your criticism of Fluid Film appears to be totally unfounded.
Prior to applying FF to my oxidized hood and roof the color had dropped back from a midnight blue to almost baby blue. FF restored the deep midnight blue color. I love this stuff and if you don't have $75,000 dollars for your wife's new truck you can make her smile when you put FF on the oxidized paint of her old truck for 75 cents.
Ford used the butyl window sealer for the original windshield installations but if you have had your windshield replaced anytime in the last 20 years it was likely installed with urethane adhesive rubber. These compounds are oil and gas resistant. Besides Fluid Film is not oil, contains no solvents...says so right on the can...formulated from lanolin...and after one day in contact with butyl sealer has done nothing to it but sit on top.
Your criticism of Fluid Film appears to be totally unfounded.
Prior to applying FF to my oxidized hood and roof the color had dropped back from a midnight blue to almost baby blue. FF restored the deep midnight blue color. I love this stuff and if you don't have $75,000 dollars for your wife's new truck you can make her smile when you put FF on the oxidized paint of her old truck for 75 cents.
Just my 2 cents...
BB2
If you glass installer installs windshield that was originally butyl with urethane find another installer. They are not backwards compatible. Butyle has give urethane does not and vehicles structures were nowhere near as stiff and the windshield to vehicle bond had to have some give.
And if you think that it is Lanolin better read the SDS... this first ingredient is Refined petroleum oil.....
And why would you coat the vehicle with what is essentially oil and then have to redo it every time it goes through the car wash. Or fix it properly and do not touch it again for the next several years for the cost of a litrally less than $20... And it did not restore the colour it just hid the oxidization.
If you glass installer installs windshield that was originally butyl with urethane find another installer. They are not backwards compatible. Butyle has give urethane does not and vehicles structures were nowhere near as stiff and the windshield to vehicle bond had to have some give.
I have been using the same glass company for 50 years...the largest glass company in my area. They don't use butyl on any vehicle windshields any more because it does not have adequate adhesion and the windshield can pop off. Federal regulations prohibit the use of butyl in the windshields or other glass that does not have other means to keep it on the vehicle.
Originally Posted by matthewq4b
And if you think that it is Lanolin better read the SDS... this first ingredient is Refined petroleum oil.....
Didn't think that cause I read that it has petroleum in the formulation. So does your computer mouse.
Originally Posted by matthewq4b
And why would you coat the vehicle with what is essentially oil and then have to redo it every time it goes through the car wash. Or fix it properly and do not touch it again for the next several years for the cost of a litrally less than $20... And it did not restore the colour it just hid the oxidization.
I'm going on my third year of FF on the paint. If you read what I wrote above then you know I don't wash my truck anymore. It hoses clean with a stream of cold water with no soap and no brushing.
And yes it did restore the deep rich color while providing an excellent wax-like look that repels water. Very low maintenance, long lasting. All for about 75 cents worth of product and about 30 minutes time.