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I'm looking for some direction with an intermittent engine shutdown issue. My truck is an 87 with a 4.9L engine and manual transmission. I will be driving along when all of a sudden the engine will just shut down, my vehicle will coast for a few seconds, and then the engine will restart on its own. I am assuming that the engine restarts because my ignition system is a "push to start" type and my manual transmission is still in gear. This happened to me several times yesterday, sometimes the shutdown lasted just a second, others lasted several seconds, but the engine always restarted on its own.
I cleaned all the grounds, checked all the plug connections. I put my code reader on the truck, but no fault codes were displayed. I did some point to point ground checks with an ohm meter, they all looked good.
Right now I am just looking for some suggestions on where to look for my problem. Could the ECC relay be causing my problem? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Right now I am just looking for some suggestions on where to look for my problem. Could the ECC relay be causing my problem? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
The old relays were substandard back then, I would change both the EEC & Fuel Pump relays.
Could be heat related; TFI Module – Coil
So you got Code 11 for both self-test ?
No Continues Memory Codes ?
The old relays were substandard back then, I would change both the EEC & Fuel Pump relays.
Could be heat related; TFI Module – Coil
So you got Code 11 for both self-test ?
No Continues Memory Codes ?
Thank you for the reply.
Yes, my handy hand held code reader came back with code 11 for both tests. I didn't believe it the first time, so I did the tests for Key on engine off, and Key on engine running a second time. Whatever is causing this to happen isn't allowing the error to be saved. I thought It was the ECC so I was able to borrow one from a running F150 with the same family code, my truck reacted the same with this other ECC installed.
I had the ignition module checked, I was told it checked good.
I also checked the two small ground wires going to my negative battery post, both of these wires only had a couple of tenths ohm resistance
I did the resistance tests using a Ford breakout box that allows me to plug the ECC plug into the box and check resistance from the plug back to the sensors, grounds, or battery points..
The truck runs great otherwise.
Any suggestion for brand of replacement relay, I don't see and Ford branded relays, just Standard Products brand.
brand of replacement relay, I don't see and Ford branded relays, just Standard Products brand.
I use the Standard Relays, you want the ISO9001 rating, it is a few $ more, but Ford realized the errors of their ways in about 1989 and started using the ISO vice the crap they put in our trucks.
I did the resistance tests using a Ford breakout box that allows me to plug the ECC plug into the box and check resistance from the plug back to the sensors, grounds, or battery points..
.
That;' impressive, not many of those boxes around anymore.....
If you get on the right pins with a few cheap meters, you can observe when it craps out...
That;' impressive, not many of those boxes around anymore.....
If you get on the right pins with a few cheap meters, you can observe when it craps out...
350+ miles, is that on the engine as well?
First off, thank you for your reply, you guys on this forum are a source of knowledge that has helped me to keep my truck running.
The actual mileage is at about 362K now, and yes it is the original engine. That plastic fiber timing gear stripped on it a few years back, I replaced the gears and the oil pump while I had the oil pan off. I also replaced the distributor a while back because the cap screws had seized and snapped off. It has been running great until this latest episode.
As far as having that break out box, the truck will not fail long enough for me to pinpoint a wire, connection, or a module. I have pulled, pushed, and shook the wiring harness without any success in making it hiccup. I'd just like for a hard failure to occur.
Both the EEC relay and the fuel pump relay are the originals though, so they probably need to be replaced.
Rotunda EEC-IV 60 pin breakout box 014-00322. Find yourself a OTC 3226 Universal Breakout box UB-80 with a Ford 60 pin adapter, its the same thing and much cheaper.
Rotunda EEC-IV 60 pin breakout box 014-00322. Find yourself a OTC 3226 Universal Breakout box UB-80 with a Ford 60 pin adapter, its the same thing and much cheaper.
Just wanted to let you know you were correct about the Ignition Control Module, it was bad. I spent the last few days opening up my wiring harness and looking at each wire that was used by the ICM, they all looked good. Then I used my break out box and looked for continuity and shorts with any of the 6 wires that go between the Ignition module and the EEC, everything looked good.
I finally went and bought a new ICM, installed it, and drove the truck for about 70 miles. As of right now it looks like the problem is solved.
Part store brands Have a HIGH rate of failure. I would highly suggest a junk yard Motorcraft ICM or purchase a new Motorcraft ICM for the replacement if you didn't replace it with Motorcraft.
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