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Originally posted by dbuck50 anybody got a picture of that black box, I still can't see it. Could it be missing and still plug in?
Yes the wire harness plug will plug into the EVR directly with no hesitation, like it was made to be there. The only reason I repaired and reinstalled the plug was because I got a EVP above closed limits code.
Originally posted by HardScrabble My 1990 Mitchell manual give the following resistances for the EVR solenoid:
4.9 and 5.8 under 8500 GVW - 20-45 ohms
7.5L 100-135 ohms
All others 30-70 ohms
It just says disconnect the EVR connector, doesn't mention the black box. I wonder if the solenoids are the same and the variation in resistance comes from different black boxes.
The resistance I got was just from one end of the plug to the other, not plugged into the EVR solenoid so it could be different when testing with the solenoid.
Out of curiosity, when you guys say you check your vacuum lines, do you check them by applying vacuum to them and blocking off the other end, making sure the line holds vacuum? I used to do this only, till I found out that one of the lines was acutally plugged (It p****d me off too, cost me $$$ at the stealership for a "I dunno whats wrong with it" diagnosis, "But I will be happy to keep looking at it for you, but it will bring your bill to $666") Anyways, make sure the lines arent plugged and that your can of peaches holds vacuum too.
If the EVR is bad, your EGR won't be working because the EVR controls the vacuum going to the EGR. So you symptons are going to be the same as those when you have a dead EGR.
For those of you who bought this at your Dealer, did you have the same experience I am having ?
The folks in the Dealer Parts Department have no idea what this thing is. I even faxed one of Dealers I called a picture of it out of my manual and they couldn't find it in their books.
When I get a minute I'm going to pull the EVR off the truck and see if I can get a part number from it.
My symptoms of a bad EVR were poor Idle, stumbling off-idle, stalling when put into gear, and a CEL light. My EVR soleniod was stuck open, the EGR is fine itself. Disconnected the vacuum to the EGR, Everything returned to normal.
Im gonna try and post a picture of the EVR- is this what you have joeychuck?
EVR Control Valve - Sends vacuum to EGR Valve per the computer. Note vacuum conections at bottom of EVR - Red source vacuum, green to EGR Valve. Big Orange wire is from coil. Located near driver side firewall next to valve cover.
Thanks for the pic. Funny, mine is mounted the other way (with the gray valve pointing down) and my vacuum lines are green and white (white source / Green EGR positon sensor).
It also looks like you do not have the "black box" in between your EVR and the wiring harness connector. That is odd.......
That is what my EVR looks like but I have an extra piece. When my battery on my digital camera charges I wil take a picture of mine so you can see the difference. I will post when it is up.
I am not sure where you can get a manual like this, I got it from eBay for $10 - a steal. It is named:
Chrysler Motors
Ford Motor Co.
General Motors
Jeep
1990 Domestic Light Trucks & Vans Service & Repair
Engine Performance
Electrical
Engine
Chassis
ISBN 0-8470-0403-1
This book has wiring and vacuum diagrams. What I find most valuable are the Tests and Flowcharts of how to pursue the trouble codes. This is a big book, probably well over 1000 pages. If I had to buy it new I am sure I would choke on the price.
I ran out at lunch and picked one up at the Ford Dealer. Ran home, threw it in and there is definately a differance ! You can tell it is working because now when I pull the vacuum off the EGR and hold my finger over it, I can feel the vacuum pulse. Where as before I had nothing at all...
Now I just need to replace the rear main seal and check for a head gasket leak..... hopefully that will hold me over for a while !