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Gotcha. Thanks for responding with an actual answer instead of just brushing me off as a pretentious noob, lol. I can definitely see those plastic nuts being an issue. I'm gonna stick with stock until I can figure out if she'll start and if I want to keep her. The SB box filter looks like a really good aftermarket alternative, which I'll eventually move to.
For now, I've ordered a Purolator air filter and a Motorcraft oil filter. Today I'm going to siphon out the old fuel and replace the fuel filter (black as sin right now). I'll also repair the brake booster line and give the passenger's cylinders a second blast of fogging oil. By Friday we should be able to shoot a 12-year cold start video!
You say that the fuel filter is "black as sin". Is the filter seem oily also? Black/oily fuel filter is usually a sign of roached injector o-rings. If you replace them use the original Alliant O-rings, they will be cheaper in the long run.
Not sure, but I'll check. When I drained the bowl there was plenty of sediment, but some of that could have been washed out of whatever piping/surfaces the fuel flowed over to get out of the bowl. Oil level was perfectly full when I got the truck, and very thick, so hopefully that's some indication that oil and fuel haven't been mixing too much.
I'm new here, so I don't want to make any waves, but why would this be non-filtering? Ford engineers haven't gotten it figured out over the past century? I get the orange boot tearing (mine is in excellent shape), but like, an air filter? My intake piping was damn clean for 350k miles, I see no reason to switch to an aftermarket hot-air intake filter setup.
You aren't making waves. Asking questions is good. FYI, they are all "hot air intakes" really. Do your thing. I won't even comment on Ford engineers. We fix so much if their "engineering", but if you have faith in them, more power to you. Enjoy the build.
I looked into doing a compression test. I have a tester, but it doesn't read high enough for diesels and an adapter to reach down to the glow plug holes is like $80 and doesn't fit my tester anyway. For now, we'll just see if she starts and see how much exhaust comes out the oil fill hole. Once/if she can move, I'll take her somewhere in town and see if they can test it.
"Budget Build" and "Powerstroke Diesel" clearly don't belong in the same sentence, so I'm trying to treat this as an 'eat the elephant' situation. Keep the restoration as cheap as possible for as long as possible, repairing, rebuilding, and maintaining wherever I can and avoiding replacement as much as possible.
Jarrett has one, sweet talk him and maybe you can borrow it with a deposit or something.
Just took the batteries out and I'm pretty sure I know what this relay is for now. One end tees into the horns (pretty sure that's what they are, under the passenger headlight) and the other end is snipped in the driver's footwell. Aftermarket alarm? Can anyone confirm? The big red wire also goes into the cab to power some secret treasure. I'll have to contact the PO to see if he wants it back as it looks pretty heckin' expensive, just out of good faith.
Minor but important work today. New glow plugs came in, Beru Ireland and all checked out on resistance in the .3 ohm range. Repaired the vacuum line near the passenger firewall and cleaned up the aftermarket wiring in the same area. "Repaired" my ignition lock cylinder so the ignition switch spring will actually return it to Run after being in the Start position. Took a Dremel and a wire wheel to the four ground points I could find and sprayed them with PB Blaster to hopefully avoid future corrosion. The main ground for the head is located in the most ridiculous of places, so I see the hate for the Ford engineers, lol.
Also attached my poor little jump pack to the battery leads and checked the functionality of some electronics:
Headlights and all the turn signals except the passenger front work.
Brake lights work, reverse lights don't. Pobably a switch problem, any hints on that one?
Front passenger window was the only one that would budge from the driver's controls, but that might just be a matter of needing more juice, heard the relays click on the other windows.
Stereo works!
Couldn't tell on the blower motor, probably just needs more juice.
Confirmed the mileage at 385,307.8 miles.
Fuel level meter seems to work for both tanks.
Was almost able to put the transfer case in neutral, actually felt it slide downward once or twice, but wasn't quite able to get it. Might be the weakling operator.
Just one picture today:
Happened to have the perfect ID of vacuum line for this. Just cut back the loom till I found healthy line and cut out the rotted and chewed section at a steep angle and crammed the black line over it.
The fan will spin on high if the motor is good. High sends 12V right to it, bypassing the resistor. Plan on installing a new motor and wheel. Removal of old wheel is nearly impossible.
No relays in window motors. They are stuck. You will have to pull door panels and push down on switch while smartly, but with gentle force tap the motor to pop it free. A small hammer is ideal for this.
Take Jarrett up on compression tester kit. Everyone telling you to test it is not blowing smoke up your ***.
""An economy diesel compression tester. I know for a fact that the Harbor Freight tool #93644 ( 12 Piece Diesel Engine Compression Tester ) has the 1/8" NPT adapter we will need. So I recommend it.
You'll need a 1/8" NPT female-to-female connector (I call them barrels)
You can get the just about anywhere that has a brass fitting selection. I got mine from Parker Store as it was easier to get it at the same time as our next piece.
You'll need an adapter to fit the actual glow plug port. Parker Store part #M10-1/8F8OHGS accomplishes this. It is our glow plug port thread pitch, M10-1.0, in an O-Ring boss male fitting on one side, but on the other adapts to 1/8"NPT female threads.
You can see if there is a Parker Store near you by searching at McCoy Sales Corporation - Manufacturers Representative and Distributor
If not, here is an internet alternative- ( M10-1/8F8OHGS MROstop.com )
You will need a grease gun hose whip. Not the kind with a fitted grease fitting on one end, but the kind with 1/8"NPT male fittings on both ends. I got mine from Ace, but noone seems to have the 12" whips online.
You can get them pretty much any auto supply store. Autozone should sell a 12" whip for about $4.99. I think I paid $6 at Ace. Either way, it doesn't matter.
You will also either need pipe dope or teflon tape. I won't link that as it should be obvious to anyone who got this far in the writeup.
At this point, lets see....
I paid roughly-
$30 for the compression tester.
$6 for the grease whip.
$1.50 for the barrel adapter
$12 for the M10-1.0 to 1/8" NPT adapter
And I have a healthy supply of teflon tape on hand.""
05-13-2019, 01:41 PM
