When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Let's Play where does this go... 300 I6 help needed.
Ok so next problem cropping up is the truck won't start the first time without ether, and after started stalls if put into gear. After letting it idle for 10-15 minutes it seems to go away. Also noticed oil on the PCV valve and lines as well as in the carb coming up from the breather line.
I've looked at the EVTM, I must be missing something.
New PCV and grommet are in. When the air filter housing was off I found this line connected to the carb and disconnected. Where is this supposed to go
Next where are these vacuum lines supposed to hook up to.
And finally this guy
I am assuming this one goes to the port on the floating plate I have on the exhaust manifold area. But have yet to find a hose for this.
So I started to search my memory to answer some of this. Wrote up a response where I wasn't confident in most my responses and instead found a post on here that actually has some good pics and run down of what goes where:
Ok this is going to be along one.
That is the fresh filtered air supply to the hot air choke.
See that metal line with the white cover between your fingers? It is the hot air side screwed into the choke and goes down to the exh. manifold. On the bottom side of the manifold there should be a metal line going up to that orange hose.
Cool filtered air is pulled thru it, thru the exh. manifold and heated then to the choke to help it open.
It could be the metal line rusted off. They make a repair kit for this you can et at the parts store, they may have to order it as it is not used on EFI motors now.
Dave ----
The next 3 pictures all work together to get warm air to the carb when the motor is cold.
The think on the side of the filter housing (I don't know the name) is a sensor to measure the air temp going into the carb.
One side gets vacuum from to intake vacuum tree, the other side goes to the flapper valve on the filter snout. Again when air temp is cold the flapper opens to let warm air heated from the exh. manifold
in to the carb.
That bottom open on the snout should go to a round paper hose that goes to the sheet metal housing that wraps around the exh. manifold the catch the heat off the manifold.
Most of the time this sheet metal housing rust away and fall off. I hear they are vary hard to come by. A member made one if you do a search.
The last picture Skaeke did a great job finding that post showing the vacuum hose routing.
Also in that post was a picture of the sticker on the radiator that is where you should look to see how yours should be run.
Dave ----
Ok chased that metal line with the white braid down to the manifold. Looks like it just rusted loose on the other end... U less it is supposed to fit in the hole here. Not seeing anything that looks like it should be coming from the other direction to the red hose.
I actually still ha e that plate on my manifold... It is rusting away.
It appears all vac lines are from what I can tell... Are intact to the vac tree and back. I'm not seeing this black rubber hose coming off the bottom of the driver's side of the carb on this diagram. Maybe something to do with the fresh air pump I don't have?
That write up you guys found is pretty slick I will have to read it a couple more times while standing over my engine bay.
I'm starting to think I should just do like some other people have done, delete the EGR system and cats, put a new manifold on it that can take a 2bbl carb and go. Rumor has it the engine will get better economy and power that way anyway.
The metal lines for the choke should have 2 in the top and the other in the bottom of the manifold aND why your may notherwise sre it. This metal line passes thru the manifold.
So you do have the rusted part on the manifold for heat to carb fresh air. There is a paper hose to join it and filter. Now if the valve in the snout does not work no need for the paper hose.
That hose off the carb with the bolt may be the supply to that thing on the side of the filter housing then to the valve on the snout?
You didn't say what year this is but it looks like a feed back carb. Can you take a picture of the distributor so we can tell because this all may be for nothing and as you said swapping carb and other parts to get thisotor to run tip top.
Dave - - - -
The metal lines for the choke should have 2 in the top and the other in the bottom of the manifold aND why your may notherwise sre it. This metal line passes thru the manifold.
So you do have the rusted part on the manifold for heat to carb fresh air. There is a paper hose to join it and filter. Now if the valve in the snout does not work no need for the paper hose.
That hose off the carb with the bolt may be the supply to that thing on the side of the filter housing then to the valve on the snout?
You didn't say what year this is but it looks like a feed back carb. Can you take a picture of the distributor so we can tell because this all may be for nothing and as you said swapping carb and other parts to get thisotor to run tip top.
Dave - - - -
1986 I believe it is back feed from what I have garnered.
i think the metal line that has the white braid that is supposed to pass through the manifold rusted away at the manifold (see previous picture).
i was also thinking the same thing. Maybe that line goes from the carb to the air cleaner and the snout connects to the side of the air cleaner. I was watching a video last night where a guy was tearing down an 83 that had a similar air cleaner but his vac tree was by the water outlet and he had a charcoal box. My vac tree is on the driver's side of the valve cover by the firewall.
I definitely want to get her running smoothly and getting the first start without ether and it not dying when in gear are good first steps to that lol.
The crank case breather filter was loaded with oil I'll be picking up a new filter assy. Today and a new grommet. Also going to grab a vbelt for the AC compressor and hook that back up.
With the scanner you will find codes.
With that system it is everything or nothing.
Everything HAS TO BE hooked up (right) and work. If just 1 thing is amiss the computer has a fit and goes into limp mode.
It will run like crap and have poor MPG.
When I get home and on my pc, on phone now, i will see if we can't get it to start with out the spray.
Dave - - - -
So a friend of mine has pretty much the same truck, made the same.month of the same year on the same production line. Only difference is his has no AC.
He sent me some pictures of his carb and air cleaner. It answered some questions and raised more.
He does not have the red and black lines off his carb. The red line per this diagram is only for non-electric chokes. Seeing as I don't have a manual choke I'm starting to think I the PO put the wrong carb on the truck. And just blocked the extra lines.
Looks like a vac line goes from the snout to what I think is the ACTS. My ACTS is plugged with junk. Another line then goes somewhere else. He does not have a TVS on the side of his air cleaner. But does have the breather. No TVS
Ok think I have part of this down. While trying to figure out where Dan's line went from that bimetal valve on the top of the air cleaner, and remembering Dave mentioned ports under the carb, I found this ported Vacuum switch under the carb on the passenger side. Two ports are blocked one is wide open. I hit it with parts cleaner to get a better shot. I think that the snout is routed to the valve on the cleaner lid, then that goes to this vacuum switch that may be on the manifold?
Either way this is an open vacuum line. Also this is definitely an after market or rebuilt carb. It does not have the 8509 stamped into the front.
More open connections. Found the carbon canister wide open.
Ok so my vacuum routing doesn't show the TVS. It goes from the snout of the air cleaner to the bi metal valve to the ported Vacuum switch on the manifold. That then connects to the MAP etc. The TVS may be in line with that? Idk. Snout to bimetal valve to TV's to ported switch or some variation there of.
I did not forget you got 4 hours sleep before I had to get up at midnight for work.
4+ hours of driving to pick up and drop off my first load for 6am, doing that now.
2nd load is a little closer going to be a long day.
Dave - - - -
I did not forget you got 4 hours sleep before I had to get up at midnight for work.
4+ hours of driving to pick up and drop off my first load for 6am, doing that now.
2nd load is a little closer going to be a long day.
Dave - - - -
That is a rough schedule. No worries I won't be able to crank it for a couple more days. I have the water outlet off waiting on a new elbow and temp sensor.
Just a recap, found the carbon box disconnected and a open fitting on the PVS under the carb that should be hooked up to the air cleaner bi met sensor and then the flapper. Also found a thread with a similar issue pointing to a mixture control selenoid, found one.. literally one on rock auto so ordered it for good measure. My bi metal sensor is rusted closed so ordered a new one of those as well.
The red line on the carb per the book is for trucks without electronic choke. So I am assuming the black line also is or something similar as my friends has neither of these on his truck. PO probably put the wrong carb on it hence they have been plugged.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
